Northerners - this is why we can't have nice things (AKA - removing rust from a modern car)

I bought my 2013 Focus this past April and did a fly and drive from Tampa to CT because I wanted a manual, leather hatchback in either blue or red. That was harder to find than I thought and ended up buying this one in CT because it was a good deal and checked everything off my wish list. Being a 2013 I figured it was too new to have any sort of rust issues and once my wife and I got up there we basically just grabbed the keys and went south.

Yesterday I finally climbed under the car and couldn't believe the amount of rust on the car! Granted most of it looks like surface rust but it was a little disheartening because this is the most expensive the newest car I've bought, yet also had the 2nd most rust/corrosion (E30 BMW wins that). I'm kinda weird and like a clean car so I'm wondering if you guys have some sort of snake oil to clean this up other than just scrubbing with a degreaser or something. Ideas?

See:

Short answer is anything you do to remove rust will open up the metal for more rust unless you cover it back up with something. Sounds like you probably know this if you're dealt with it on the E30 before. If theres a better method I'd sure like to use it! I use a wire brush then sandpaper then prime and paint now. Would sandblast if I could.

For a Yankee car, that's not even rusty.

I've used Loctite Extend succesfully in the past, but it's optimized for steel. I don't think it would work on aluminum.

Dusterbd13 wrote: For a Yankee car, that's not even rusty.

Not even close to rusty. But anyway, I use Fluid Film to keep it at bay: http://www.fluid-film.com/

Ziebarts? Yeah that's a rust free vehicle in Wisconsin. I wouldn't even mention anything about that and I would still be trying to be forthcoming and honest.

If that is your 2nd rustiest vehicle, I envy you.

jstein77 wrote: I've used Loctite Extend succesfully in the past, but it's optimized for steel. I don't think it would work on aluminum.

I don't think rust would work on aluminium either

That ain't rusty. Southerners.

In reply to Dietcoke:

LOL. I meant to get rid of the oxidation on the aluminum that Enyar showed in the first picture.

This is rust:

What you have is patina - it ain't rust!!!

I spent a week at the beach in Alabama and the sea salt caused more damage to my stuff than this. That won't do anything else if you are planning on keeping it in Tampa.

You are correct, there is no point in having nice things when you live in the salt-belt. No matter what you do, they are going to be ruined. First five years are not an issue but after that it is a slide into the grave.

For some of us,there is a positive side to this death sentence. If you can accept that nothing that you do is going to make a difference one way or the other, then you can relax and just drive the thing. Washing and waxing is pointless in the long run (10 years) and so are concerns about minor bumps and scrapes. It's a liberating feeling and you get many hours of your life back. These new-found hours and dollars are useful time that you can devote to restoring rusty pieces of E36 M3 in the garage.

I once had the opportunity to purchase a jeep tj that needed new axles and suspension due to rust. Turne out the guy was in charleston sc and the rust was surface rust. I couldn't take advantage of the man so I told him to drive it and be happy. It look like a typical pa car and in pretty good shape.

It's all about frame of reference. I miss working on my southern cars.

Why did you fly north to buy that's bassackwards.

Yeah yeah I know it was backwards, but it was the only car that checked all the boxes in my price range. The rest of the car looks brand new and it only has 25k miles... I didn't expect the car would have enough oldness for rust.

Looks like an under car detailing is in store.

What about CLR?

I've used CLR before, also POR15 and Eastwood, among others, have all kinds of rust remover chemicals. I've also used oxalic acid that I bought as crystals off ebay.
Whatever you use, plan to paint it quickly because you'll get flash rust again if it sits too long. Also, the stuff will stain the garage or driveway, and probably painted stuff as well.

All I see in the OP are pics of a mint concourse car. Where is this mythical rust you speak of?

You guys are making me not want to move up north, ever! (The northeast, anyway)

It isn't rust until you can poke a finger through. Typically described as minor. When you can put an arm through, that's described as rust in the usual places. What you have would be described as mint.

rust? that aint rust... that's what new cars look like when they sit on the lot until the next year's models show up..

bare metal does this when it is exposed to moisture.. it's why paint was invented..

That's not bad, if you're really worried about it spend the hours (and hours) stripping it down, putting on some self-etching primer and paint over it.

Don't worry at all about the aluminum, oxidation on that actually makes it stronger.

If it makes you feel any better aluminum actually corrodes fairly easily especially cast aluminum because of the surface finish. The good news is the oxide layer actually prevents or slows down additional corrosion. If it really bothers you spraying it with Eagle 1 Mag Wheel Cleaner and Etch will remove the oxide layer and make the surface more uniform.I have used this on transmission cases after washing with pressure washer or soap and water.

The rust can be removed by putting some Klean Strip Phosphoric Prep and Etch (Home Depot or Lowes)in a pump spray bottle and keeping the surface wet long enough for the rust to be removed and turning the surface black. This black surface will prevent flash rusting for a while.

Be sure to use gloves, eye protection and probably a respirator as both products can be nasty to the skin, eyes and lungs if you breath the vapors.

Bar and Chain oil. Cheap pump-up sprayer.

I've also done the wax toilet-ring melted into mineral spirits and used motor oil and sprayed onto the undercarriage.

Northerners? CT is only about as far North as Chicago, or the OR/CA border. Portland and Seattle are appreciably further North than that and have no such rust problems.