Okay, maybe I'll finally buy a Miata

Cutter's post about his new Miata got me thinking. I need something more economical than my truck, and summer is coming, so why not? I've drove one when they first came out and have not since. I've never really considered one until now, so I don't really know much about them except what I've picked up here. So I need an education. But here's a couple must haves:

• Must be rust free
• Must have working A/C
• Must not need any major work, as I have too many projects already
• So it must be good for a daily driver
• I don't want to spend any more money than I have to

So what is the minimum I should expect to have to pay for a car meeting these conditions? What should I look for when inspecting such a car? I've heard something about crank wobble(?). What's this all about, and how do I inspect for it?

How do one of these look?

http://akroncanton.craigslist.org/cto/3727313161.html
http://akroncanton.craigslist.org/cto/3721397118.html
http://akroncanton.craigslist.org/cto/3720156743.html
http://cleveland.craigslist.org/cto/3727482404.html

What your budget is will determine which one you should buy. Which basically I'd just buy the newest/nicest you can find. I'd probably try for an NB 99-2005, and preferably a 2001-2005 so you get the VVT motor.

Crank wobble is really only an issue on a very small percentage of '90 and early '91 models.

You're choosing the wrong time to buy one - prices go up with warm weather.

I think you could get a solid one for $3,000

Well unfortunately it's the worst time of the year to buy one.

I'm actually going to suggest a well-priced NB over the often obscenely-overpriced NAs these days.

Seems not terribly hard to get a nice NB now for $6k or less. And that's how i would roll.

An NA meeting your expectations if you want quick gratification is probably going to be in the $3500+ range, assuming i read your post correctly and deduced that you want a pretty nice one.

NA, NB, NSX, I don't know what you are talking about! I assume the NA are the early cars and the NB's have exposed headlights? But what range of years are we talking about? And yes, I know its the wrong time of year to buy one, but now is when I need one.

z31maniac wrote: Crank wobble is really only an issue on a very small percentage of '90 and early '91 models.

Going to disagree and say to check them all. (I had to replace the motor in my '95 because of a bad keyway from a hamfisted PO or mechanic doing a timing belt)

Its just more likely on the early ones with the short nose.

I keep hearing that NB's are better cars for the daily haul.

*edit.

NA - 1990-1998 NB- 1999-2004 NC-2005-current

NA is 1989 through 1997 - flip up headlights NB 1998 - ??? - exposed headlights NC is the current body style

DaveEstey wrote: NA is 1989 through 1997 - flip up headlights NB 1998 - ??? - exposed headlights NC is the current body style

If anyone is trying to sell you a 1998 in North America, they have no idea what they are talking about. Unless they imported it for some reason.

In the US....

90-93 is 1.6 NA. Early 1.6s have the wobble dealy.
94-97 is 1.8 NA.
99-00 is NB1. No vvt, no projectors, etc etc etc... (Small percentage of crank issues, but likely to have already occurred if it's going to.)
01-05 is NB2. VVT, projectors, good stuffs.

Past that is NC stuff. I'd like an NC as a daily, but you're looking at a rather large jump in price.

The 99-00s seem to be particularly cheap right now. That's where i'd be looking if i were to be picky with my money.

90-97 NA, 99-2005 NB, 06+ NC

Again, I'd shoot for a 2001-2005. Get an 03-05 and you are assured the sport brakes as well when they were options before.

what's a projector?

icaneat50eggs wrote: what's a projector?

Projector headlights.

1999 Miata:

2001+ miata on left:

Thanks for all the information. Can someone explain to me what the crank issue is and how to inspect it?

Aside from tearing it apart.. you basically have to see if you can wobble the pulley on the crank nose.

(also get a look at it while running and see if it wobbles)

http://www.miata.net/garage/crankshaft.html

http://www.miata.net/garage/hsue/crank/loctite_1.htm

Click on each link to the right to read through it step by step. Also, from what I understand, the issue is more overblown than reality. It does happen, but only to a small number of engines.

In reply to Klayfish:

A problem that is overblown on the internet? Ha! Like the Honda auto trans issue, which in reality effects 5% of the cars. That is kind of high, but nothing like what you read on the interwebz, so I understand. But I figure its still something I should check, no?

Any opinions on the ads that I posted above? Do the values seem in line, high, low???

This might be useful. Ignore the prices, that's what the market looked like 7 years ago :)

http://grassrootsmotorsports.com/articles/mazda-miata/

bravenrace wrote: Any opinions on the ads that I posted above? Do the values seem in line, high, low???

None of those rock MY socks off, but the 2nd and 4th ones don't seem to be obscenely priced.

I'd pass on the 1st and 3rd since they're pretty much the same price as the other two with no real benefits.

Out of those cars, I'd get the blue one. Don't like the others for various reasons - spelling (dumb owner), "dents?" (spun out 'drifting' and berkeleyed E36 M3 up), base model (no a/c)

The 99+ cars are pretty nice to drive too and prices seem very close at times. Much newer and more modern, powerful car overall.

Thanks guys. Not to get side tracked, but I was looking on Ebay and came across this:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2000-Honda-S2000-Base-Convertible-2-Door-2-0L-/230958055107?pt=US_Cars_Trucks&hash=item35c62c3ec3#ht_577wt_1165

Or,,,
http://mansfield.craigslist.org/ctd/3713183446.html

Toodle on over to

miata.net

Do lots of reading and ask a few questions. When you're done you'll have more information than you thought existed from a reasonably sane group of Miata loonies. (Including me!!)

bravenrace wrote: Or,,, http://mansfield.craigslist.org/ctd/3713183446.html

This one is suspicious. "No rust through" probably means there is visible rust on the rockers. Be sure when you buy "rust free" its truly rust free. The rockers will rust through from the inside out, so if you can see it, its well advanced. (Ask me how I know this )

As mentioned above, the miata.net "garage" section has a buyer's guide that has a lot of helpful information.

kazoospec wrote:

bravenrace wrote: Or,,, http://mansfield.craigslist.org/ctd/3713183446.html

This one is suspicious. "No rust through" probably means there is visible rust on the rockers. Be sure when you buy "rust free" its truly rust free. The rockers will rust through from the inside out, so if you can see it, its well advanced. (Ask me how I know this ) As mentioned above, the miata.net "garage" section has a buyer's guide that has a lot of helpful information.

I'm with him, BUT...

Go look at it. With the assumption that the rust isn't a problem (i blame poor wording on that ad), that car is the best deal so far. $5900 with stock wheels, i'd take that over any of those NAs any day of the week.