I need a set of these, but I need them in 1/2"-20. Unfortunately I can only find them in metric. Anyone have any good options? They're going on my truck and the Lightning wheels.
https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-611-268-AutoGrade-Chrome-M14-1-50/dp/B0049E3W0S/
I'm thinking about taking a set of these and turning the angled portion into a flat on my lathe and adding a washer. Bad idea?
One of these might work:
If not, here are some different ones:
https://www.dormanproducts.com/hsubsearch.aspx?type=Wheel%20Hardware&parttype=Wheel%20Nut
What about 97 f150 lugs? They went with that crap hub centric crap and the lugs were flat.
In reply to Ranger50 :
Everything I can find shows that they went to metric at that time.
In reply to B. Yourself :
My concern with these is the length. The Lightning wheels almost have to have that flat flange, or else I'll need to slot the lug holes for any of those to go into the hole enough for the washer to seat.
At least, I think so.
Probably a last resort, but it may end up easier to find new wheel studs to fit the metric nuts. Depends on how much you really want to use those wheels.
In reply to B. Yourself :
More that I want to get rid of the adapters I'm currently running so I can get the wheels balanced without jumping through hoops. No shop around here likes dealing with adapters and honestly I don't want them dealing with them on my truck.
Summit racing has an excellent search feature to help finding lug studs and nuts. About an hour's worth of research for a project I'm working on resulted in me discovering that 2011 dodge Durango studs were what I needed. Said project is not a mopar, or even American.
Curious myself, the front axle on the Harley is 1/2-20, I ended up using an acorn nut , with a lock washer which isn't my favorite way. You could always run castle nuts but that is kinda ugly.
I went through some aerobics for my Bugeye, swapping to cosworth Vega wheels. Original spridget is a 3/8 stud (tiny and hard to find) and I couldn't find appropriate size shanked lugnuts. It wound up simplest to ream and install 7/16 studs and order a set of lugnuts for the Vega off eBay. Luckily, the new lugs just had pressed caps keeping them from being employed as through stud application, so the pressed out fine and work.
For me it was a no-brainer as I was doing disc brakes and new rear hubs at the time anyways and it's a good strength increase. If you go this route, don't be tempted to just use a drill bit, throw the money on a properly sized reamer for converting hubs, the drill bit just didn't want to be precise enough, even with a big ole drill press
1/2-20 polished stainless Acorn Nuts available from Amazon, NAPA, McMaster Carr and a few hardware stores near me.
In reply to 914Driver :
For lug nuts? That sounds... I dunno how that sounds.
Mr_Asa said:In reply to 914Driver :
For lug nuts? That sounds... I dunno how that sounds.
Unsafe is how that sounds.
Stainless is a stupid material for a fastener and should only be used if the application calls for anti-corrosion properties that only stainless can provide.
An unrated fastener to hold the wheels on also seems unsafe.
APEowner said:Mr_Asa said:In reply to 914Driver :
For lug nuts? That sounds... I dunno how that sounds.
Unsafe is how that sounds.
Stainless is a stupid material for a fastener and should only be used if the application calls for anti-corrosion properties that only stainless can provide.
An unrated fastener to hold the wheels on also seems unsafe.
I'd just like this to appear more times on this page
Apexcarver said:is this your card?
https://www.brandsport.com/excl-98-0025.html
These would indeed work, but I was hoping for something prettier. To get that I think I might have to go to metric studs :-/
Then again, plain black lug nuts would look kinda studly (yuk yuk)
If I do go with new studs, should I drill new holes, or should I ream out the existing holes to an appropriate size?
Edit: I should dig around on linked sites before I post. These might be it exactly.
https://www.brandsport.com/excl-98-0011.html
Just in case, you can ream existing holes to proper size (refer to stud manufacturer for sizing and be sure you have enough size difference and good engagement). You then avoid needing to use a mill to get hole locations right. The reamer will do a much better job keeping the hole on center than a drill bit would. At least if it's all lug centric.
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