Im going to paint my Falcon satin black, but am not sure what I need to do so it will be washable, and should I just use rustoleum in a spray can, obviously going the grassroots route....
thanks
Im going to paint my Falcon satin black, but am not sure what I need to do so it will be washable, and should I just use rustoleum in a spray can, obviously going the grassroots route....
thanks
go to tractor supply if you have them and pick up a gallon of the valspar tractor and implement enamel in low gloss black, some hardener, and naptha for thinner. the whole job will cost under $70 if you need to buy a harbor freight HVLP spray gun, under $50 if you have a gun already.
+1. Use a semi-gloss (not flat/"satin,") and for the love of God, don't rattle can it. It'll look like E36 M3, and one day when you come to your senses and say "Wow, I really shouldn't have rattle-canned such a cool car," you'll go through 80 gazillion sheets of sandpaper and as many hours trying to get that crap off. Ask me how I know.
I generally agree that rattlecan jobs dont turn out right, but even though I have the equipment to do a proper job I just had experiment with rattlecans to see if there was something acceptible. I tried many different brands of flat and satin black and finally found that with good spraying techniques and care you can get a fine job out of Rustoleum Satin black.
Lennyseleven, I bought a $10 (on sale at Christmas) HF HVLP gravity feed gun that usually sells for $20-40. I like it. I have 3 other guns, non HVLP, and I use this one now for about everything. My compressor is a 4 HP Craftsman, about 22 years old. I think they call if a 6 HP now, but it's the same. They just measure everything in new Chineese horses today instead of good ol' American horses. It can keep up with the HF guns. I used it for this:
with Rustoleum Professional.
njansenv wrote: I've had very good experience with duplicolour's satin black too...."engine enamel". Nathan
That was one of about 6 different paints I tried in my "experiments" it, like most of the others, had too much tendancy to tiger stripe.
patgizz wrote: ...valspar tractor and implement enamel in low gloss black, some hardener, and naptha for thinner...
You might want to research enamel hardener first. This stuff is very nasty stuff (isocyonide I believe). Gets in through the lungs (and maybe skin?), attacks the nervous system and can easily kill. Once you are affected by it you become very sensitive to it and cannot go anywhere near it.
Like I said, use careful consideration.
Dr. Hess wrote: My compressor is a 4 HP Craftsman, about 22 years old. I think they call if a 6 HP now, but it's the same. They just measure everything in new Chineese horses today instead of good ol' American horses.
Yeah they started rating stuff at peak horse
http://www.lawcash.com/attorney/3392/campbell-hausfeld-devilbiss-air-power-ingersoll-rand-coleman-powermate-inc-lawsuit.asp <--- that lawsuit should have cleared it up. I thought.
you have to be careful of "zebra striping" (is that what it's called???
Stroke lines are common from rattle can jobs--I'm not enough of an expert to say why.
Rattle cans work more smoothly if they've been soaked in warm water--helps the paint flow more evenly.
This will save your finger/thumb:
http://www.amazon.com/Rustoleum-Rust-Oleum-Spray-Grip/dp/B000DZFE44
rattle can paint dries way too fast so its hard to keep a wet edge, thats why there are stripes .
get a GOOD chemical respiratior made for painting. i've got a $$$ one that cost more than my paint gun. your health is never something to go "basic home depot" on.
What about this from HF? Will it get decent results? Any experience? I don't have a compressor so maybe this would work?
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