Removing clearcoat?

Hi al,

Any way to gently remove clearcoat without removing the underlying paint? My Honda is peeling, but the underlying basecoat looks ok. Tips and suggestions please

Not gonna happen. Sorry.

2000 grit sandpaper, (wet), lots and lots and lots and lots of patient sanding. :)

Seems like it would be less headache to just prep and paint by the time it's all said and done.

Try a razor blade. If it is delaminating badly you can usually peel it off in strips.

red scotchbrite and elbow grease worked for me. I used a 6" rotary pad on an air drill, and it cut through it fairly easy. I didn't much care about the underlying paint, but if you are carefull it should work. A hand pad would be the safe bet though.

Move it north where the seasons freeze water on top of the car and the let it melt. Leave it outside there for a while.

Then use a blowgun nozzle from the air compressor at 100psi!!

works great on 90's Chrysler paint.

blow gun would be best if that doesn't work try a plastic razor blade. But most like the basecoat is crap by now and applying clearcoat over will case it to peel again. Save time and headaches and just repaint it.

I hear ya guys. I figure I couldn't mess up laying on clearcoat too badly, but I am sure gonna mess up a paintjob. Still, it would be a worthwhile learning experience. Anyone know where I can get paint at a reasonable price? Not looking for top quality as this is a 15 year old Honda, just something a beginning painter can get some experience with. Do I have to do basecoat/clearcoat again, or can I lay a single stage on top of a basecoat? If I'm painting it the same awful green color, do I need to do a primer sealer coat? Is it realistic to think I can do this for less than $150 in paint and supplies? I've already got a compressor. Anyone ever paint with an Harbor/Freight gun? What about a DeVilbiss Finishline series gun? I don't know much about guns, but there is one in my local paper for $50.

Personally I would atleast sand down to primer if you are have delamination, since there is a problem with the clear coat to color coat bond.

I have the Harbor Freight HVLP. I believe it's a SATA knockoff. It's a pretty good gun for the money (I got mine for <$40). You can get different tip sizes by calling their 800 number, they don't list them online. Check out HERE for gun setup instructions.

I did a rattle can job on this car for about $120 including everything except the air drill, which was a $15 HF cheepo. It's rustoleum ultra-flat camo green, and I plan on doing my new beater the same way, but with gloss paint. For fun I wetsanded the front bumper down with 1000 grit and it got nice and glossy. I think it would do a decent job, the paint is quality, most problems are with the prep work. It should yeild results similar to the 'roll-on' method, but with less work.

The discoloration is dirt, besides being flat, which is impossible to keep cleen, I did the bottom 6" with bedliner under the paint to hide the rock dings. One awesome thing, touch-ups are a breeze!

midknight wrote: I hear ya guys. I figure I couldn't mess up laying on clearcoat too badly, but I am sure gonna mess up a paintjob. Still, it would be a worthwhile learning experience. Anyone know where I can get paint at a reasonable price? Not looking for top quality as this is a 15 year old Honda, just something a beginning painter can get some experience with. Do I have to do basecoat/clearcoat again, or can I lay a single stage on top of a basecoat? If I'm painting it the same awful green color, do I need to do a primer sealer coat? Is it realistic to think I can do this for less than $150 in paint and supplies? I've already got a compressor. Anyone ever paint with an Harbor/Freight gun? What about a DeVilbiss Finishline series gun? I don't know much about guns, but there is one in my local paper for $50.

If you can lay on clear you can lay on color, same learning curve.

Id go with a single stage instead of a base clear, its easy to fix if you mess up and less steps overall.

Try NAPA for cheapish paint. The better quality stuff will run you more than $150 for the paint, reducer and hardener but if you arent looking for great quality you can get their industrial paint (made for tractors and stuff) for under $100 (at least it used to be, been awhile since I bought it)

The DeVilbiss FInishline guns are good, its what Im currently using and they get the job done.