Removing rounded off nut

Boy, you were expecting something different after reading that topic, huh?

I'm attempting to swap out the diff carrier in my '90 Miata. My first attempt at something like this. On the ends of the carrier, there's a mount that supports it. It has two small bolts with 12mm nuts. They had a decent amount of rust around them. I sprayed with PB Blaster when I got home in the afternoon, and I didn't start working until after 7pm, so they had been soaking several hours. I used a 6 point socket and tried to be as careful as I could, but one of them rounded off. Now what? How can I get that nut off? Keep in mind I only have basic hand tools at home, but could run to HF to pick something up if needed.

http://www.harborfreight.com/9-piece-38-drive-metric-bolt-extractor-sockets-67894.html

I have never tried the HF version so I don't know how the quality is.

Just whack it with a cold chisel and replace.

12mm isn't a structural component.

Actually, replace them all.

If it rounded that easily, they probably all have corrosion issues.

EvanB wrote: http://www.harborfreight.com/9-piece-38-drive-metric-bolt-extractor-sockets-67894.html I have never tried the HF version so I don't know how the quality is.

I'm curious too. I saw those when I was looking at their website last night. But I wasn't sure if they worked well, or they were like the Ginsu knife...it slices, dices, and will even make coffee...

For something that small, Vice Grips are the ticket.

Air chisel to burp it loose, should turn easily after that.

"I just want to wish you both good luck. We're all counting on you."

Klayfish wrote:

EvanB wrote: http://www.harborfreight.com/9-piece-38-drive-metric-bolt-extractor-sockets-67894.html I have never tried the HF version so I don't know how the quality is.

I'm curious too. I saw those when I was looking at their website last night. But I wasn't sure if they worked well, or they were like the Ginsu knife...it slices, dices, and will even make coffee...

I actually had really good luck with that set. Saved my ass unbolting the front struts from the knuckles on a BMW E34 - after nearly two hours of trying the "old fashioned way," hooked one of these up to an electric impact and all six were out in about 5 minutes.

As with all Harbor Freight stuff, YMMV.

Knipex Cobra

The first thing I reach for in any situation like this. The teeth are sharp and unlike channel locks and vise grips the jaws are shaped to grip smooth objects as well as bolt heads.

Hammer over a slightly smaller sized multipoint socket. Also works for wheel locks you can't find the key for

AutoXR wrote: Hammer over a slightly smaller sized multipoint socket. Also works for wheel locks you can't find the key for

I had thought about trying that, using an 11mm 12pt socket. But I wasn't sure if the nut would get really wedged and/or mess up the socket. The spot where they are is hard to get from the side. I can reach it fine straight up/down, like a socket would fit on, but can't get a great angle to go sideways. I tried grabbing it with pliers, but couldn't get a grip.

I have also used the HF set with success..

I have both the metric and standard sets..

Hammering sockets on is typically the next step...

Well... after hammering on a just to small HF extractor...

and don't forget the heat if possible.. The fire wrench never fails.. eventually..

I've had mixed success with the HF set, if the bolt head is really rounded the HF set will finish the job of rounding off what is left. I was able to get a bad header nut off though so I guess they are worth having around.

Irwin Bolt-Grip.

pound on a disposable 12 point socket that is one size smaller- i think a 7/16" socket would be perfect for a rounded 12mm bolt..

once you get the socket on it, apply steady pressure.. if it doesn't break loose, then apply a BFH to the handle while applying steady pressure to help crack it loose.. if that doesn't crack it loose, then tap on the metal that the bolt is screwed into while applying steady pressure..

yes, your tools might get scratched up and, yes, the ratchet might go flying off the bolt while you are applying pressure, and yes, you might punch something jagged and rusty really hard with your knuckles when that happens- but that's just how these things work sometimes..

I have a couple, Heller Brothers' "Master Wrench". I think they are also called a "Clench Wrench" or a Masterench". The harder you push, the harder it grips.

In reply to Gasoline:

These are one of the best tools in my tool box for nasty fasteners.

I just found this on youtube and my mind is blown. Best product presentation I've ever seen.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E3-EsetvqRg

pipe wrench

+1 to knipex cobra. The only limit to those things is your ability to grip it.

EvanB wrote: http://www.harborfreight.com/9-piece-38-drive-metric-bolt-extractor-sockets-67894.html I have never tried the HF version so I don't know how the quality is.

You NEED a set of these. I haven't tried the HF version either, but I ASSume they're as good as crapsmans. Or, you can save the $20 and curse, throw E36 M3, bust knuckles, etc with the "chisel torch visegrips" method.

Tip: Most numbtards don't read the directions. Don't use the one that comfortably slides over the head of the bolt/nut, use the next size smaller, that barely grabs the bit you've rounded. It will seem weird...until it works, and you say "why did I listen to all these sado-masochist asshats who love rusty busted knuckles?"

I have a set of the Craftsmen, I haven't been able to use them yet. I guess that is a good thing?

Taiden wrote: I just found this on youtube and my mind is blown. Best product presentation I've ever seen. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E3-EsetvqRg

That is amazing. On my short list of new tools.

Having a welder I just weld a nut to the stripped bolt. The heat usually helps brake it free.

Reason number a billion why to have a 110 volt flux core welder