S-dime CAM car?

Nick (Not-Stig) Comstock wrote:

Gearheadotaku wrote: I'd like a 3link (like an f-body 3rd/4th gen) over a truck arm, but yes great project plan!

What is your reasoning for this? Less weight? That's really the only thing I can think of.

I think it would be easier to retain bed space with an f body torque arm, the whole setup mounts pretty low. I've got the axle, torque arm, and springs in my basement, and control arms wouldn't be hard to make...

I'm infatuated with this whole idea, BTW. Please do it so I don't sell the Camaro and do it myself. Or don't, because it will only make the temptation worse?

In reply to Furious_E:

I don't think you'll lose any bed space. This is a G-body but even F-body's don't need any alterations to the floor pan.

Fueled by Caffeine wrote: Driveabeater Google it on pro touring.com

Giggity. Im internet famous.

Here is what it looks like on the bare chassis of a tri five chevy.

I went with:

Front- cut 1/2 coil, drop spindles, zq8 sway bar, circle track upper control arms

Rear- western chassis 3" drop leafs, 2" blocks, zq8 sway bar. Needed pinion angle shims.

On the street i ran 17x8 soft 8 wheels with 245/45 htr-z tires all around, and it was glued to the road no matter how hard i pushed it around corners. Then i got stupid and got rid of it. Was going to lt1 it, but got nervous carrying rear facing baby seat resting against dash in such a small truck.

In reply to Nick (Not-Stig) Comstock:

I meant vs a 3 or 4 link with forward facing upper and lower control arms, rather than truck arms. But I guess diy truck arms might be easier to implement anyways.

Dusterbd13 wrote:

Fueled by Caffeine wrote: Driveabeater Google it on pro touring.com

Giggity. Im internet famous.

Dude.. I love that truck.

In reply to Furious_E:

Gotcha

In reply to Nick (Not-Stig) Comstock:

I could be overlooking something obvious, but off hand I can't think of any racing application where truck arms are commonly used over other alternatives, that they aren't mandated by the rules. Personally, I can't help but prefer the idea of a suspension that doesn't inherently and uncontrollably bind in roll.

In reply to Driven5:

Yes but why? It's heavier than a 3 or 4 link, so weight is a big one that I see right off the bat. I don't think there is anything inherently bad about the geometry of a properly set up truck arm suspension but many good things over a leaf spring setup. So why would another design be better?

Driven5 wrote: In reply to Nick (Not-Stig) Comstock: Personally, I can't help but prefer the idea of a suspension that doesn't inherently and uncontrollably bind in roll.

You mean like a stock GM 4 link? With a properly engineered truck arm you have no bind.

Edit, I mean unintended surprise bind. The arms are meant to twist. I'm not sure you could completely rid it of any bind, as you said it's in the design. I guess you could bring both forward mounts to the same point but I'm not sure how that would work.

Yes, truck arms are better than leaf springs. Yes, a triangulated 4-link with bushings binds too. For that matter, technically just about any live axle link system 'binds' to at least some degree if there are bushings on both ends of the links. And yes, unless the truck arms were to share a single pivot point up front, the rigid mounting of the arms to the axle rear necessarily binds the suspension in roll. I've never done it myself, but it's my understanding that engineering how much component flexing occurs and where is one of the things that defines a properly set up truck arm suspension. Sure it can be made to work well enough, but it's typically not the first choice for performance unless tied by other constraints.

Edit reply: I wouldn't call the bind encountered by a triangulated 4-link with bushings an 'unintended surprise' either, but that doesn't make it any more desirable.

An S10 with an engine swap sounds like a fun setup for the CAM class. I would go with Corvette wheels (18x9.5 or something wide under 11") for affordability with the wheels and the tires.

RealMiniParker wrote:

Toebra wrote: Of course you should do it, does the truck have the same bolt pattern as a Corvette?

Yes, and I have a set of C6 staggered wheels for sale, of he's interested.

Mr_Clutch42 wrote: I would go with Corvette wheels (18x9.5 or something wide under 11") for affordability with the wheels and the tires.

Mine are 18x8.5 and 19x10. Just sayin'

In reply to RealMiniParker: I was trying to say that 315+ section width tires have to cost huge $$$ for 11" wide wheels.

In reply to Mr_Clutch42:

I was trying to reiterate that I'm trying to unload just the kind of wheels you are suggesting.

Bob, Do it! You know where I am for the welding and fab work.

Yeah only way this would happen is if I sold the new bike to fund it. So.... It's not. Someone else do this, get tired of it and sell it to me for pennies on the dollar.

Sell the SeX, buy some $500 penalty box. Build Ess Dime.

Some assembly required.

Yeah, it's not a regular cab, but it's solid.

Swank Force One wrote: Sell the SeX, buy some $500 penalty box. Build Ess Dime.

Hell no I'm not selling the nicest car I own! Are you kidding me? I don't want a divorce THAT fast.

Sorry to dig up an old post; but thought I'd share...

In reply to 4u2nvjoe:

That's excellent.

I hate you so much right now.

In reply to 4u2nvjoe:

Is that your truck? Details...