I have a line on an '86 CRX that runs but "needs work", and can be had for the paltry sum of $350.
Other than a high HP/weight ratio and pretty damn great gas mileage, I know next to nothing about these, and I'm hoping my fellow GRMers can shed some light on things here.
Thanks in advance, and if I decide not to move forward with this, I'll post the ad in the $2010 classifieds.
-OCEgg
If it's not rusted to pieces and looks decent, grab it. Even if that motor is trashed, swaps are ridiculously easy on these things.
Swaps are ridiculously easy IF it's an Si model. If it's not an Si, it's carburated and it will require a complete wiring harness to upgrade to a B16 or equivalent. If it's an Si, I'd jump on it. If it's an HF and in good shape, those are desirable as well since they are the lightest.
I do love those cars! Very fun and quick (in 1st and 2nd gear anyway) and I got 40mpg in mine. I had a 86 Civic Si (bought from David Wallens after the $1500 Challenge) and I picked up a 86 CRX Si as a parts car for $300. Turns out it had a bad injector which led the previous owner to try and fix it with a tune up after which it never ran right again so he let it sit for 6 months before selling it to me. Turns out the plug wires were swapped. NICE!
Rust, rust, rust. Especially look at the torsion bar areas.
Most everything else is a piece of cake.
If you're close, I have the odd and end part, so don't let some minor part stop the purchase.
Stan
They rust badly in the jack point areas. The lower body side cladding is plastic and can hide a lot of the rust, so look close.
I currently own an '84 base model and an '87 Si. Fun little cars. If it's in good shape I'd buy it.
I may have a D16A1 swap for sale soon if you want to come to AL to pick it up.
Need moar details, but sounds like a decent deal if it's not trashed.
If the fenders and header panel aren't torn to shreds, and it runs, it's probably worth the money. Non-Si models are carb'd and somewhat anemic, which is not to say you can't go .040 over, slap a set of integra pistons in and solex or weber sidedrafts on and embarrass FI guys. Carb'd models have a rat's nest of unnecessary, emissions related vacuum lines, which can often be the culprit if it's running rough.
As bravenrace said, rust under the rockers is also an issue, as well as the torsion bar mounts AND the panhard bar.
The only "ridiculously easy" swap is another EW/D15A3, though the D16A1 from a 1st gen. Integra isn't too bad. Anything else will require pretty serious work.
Some folks on redpepperracing.com will argue that it does nothing, but I've seen with my own damned two eyes a ~10hp increase on Si's by swapping in 1g integra injectors and ECU.
The Si's also love a E36 M3 ton of advance, and a bump in fuel pressure.
Motors as well as 5-speed transmissions are generally rock-berkeleying-solid, but they are interference motors, so inspect/ask about the timing belt.
Parts used to be plentiful, but are starting to get more scarce. Importers don't generally bother with anything pre-88 anymore, so grab free or cheap blocks, heads, complete motors, etc. when you can.
They're GREAT, tossable, fun to drive, easy to work on cars, and I hope to own and drive one till the day I die.
Great car - My 2005 Challenger was an 86 CRX DX, with the running gear (and wiring harness) from an 87 Integra in it. Despite its rust (the floor pans were actually separated from the rocker panels), it performed admirably, then went on to 3 seasons of rallycrossing with very indifferent maintenence. Only died late last year because it was left to sit outside for a year, and jumped time when someone tried to start it without making sure all was well.
So, yeah, if its not too rotten, its worth it.
Edit: Oh yeah, easiest engine swap I've ever done, including pulling one SBF for another.
I looked at two last year. One guy tried to hide a rusted out floor. Another one I test drove and the rear end was moving back and forth making a horrible noise whenever I made a turn. Come to find out the rear suspension was so rusted out the wheels were rubbing against the inner well. So yeah, watch out for rust especially the floors and torsion bars. Here is a nice link: http://www.hemmings.com/hsx/stories/2007/06/01/hmn_feature21.html
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