Kenny_McCormic wrote: "Non detergent" oil is code for "no anti wear additives, antioxidants(sludge prevention) or anti corrosives" not that a model A engine is exactly hard on oil, but something meeting some sort of API spec(besides SA or SB) is gonna make it last a lot longer between overhauls.
Hmm, interesting. I used it only because it's what the Model A "guru" said to use, but experts have been wrong before. I'll bring it up at the Crankin "A's" dinner tonight.
Its a common misconception, the manual might have called for it at one time because oil with additives was 20 years out from then. If its fresh rebuild, that's not all sludged up yet, there's no harm in switching it over now. A "HD30" or something multiviscosity even, 15w40 diesel oil would work very well.
So when are you gonna hang A/C on it? It's going to get stinkin' 'ot in there in traffic. 
It's actually very comfortable, I just open the windshield and feel the wind in my hair.
Tom Suddard wrote: It's actually very comfortable, I just open the windshield and feel the wind in my hair.
I own a Miata, so I understand.........I wish I still had hair to feel the wind.
Congrats!
I'm guessing Ford considered that gear to be a wear item since you didn't have to tear apart half the engine to get to it like in a more modern engine.
How is it in traffic when you're not moving? 
Tom Suddard wrote:Kenny_McCormic wrote: "Non detergent" oil is code for "no anti wear additives, antioxidants(sludge prevention) or anti corrosives" not that a model A engine is exactly hard on oil, but something meeting some sort of API spec(besides SA or SB) is gonna make it last a lot longer between overhauls.Hmm, interesting. I used it only because it's what the Model A "guru" said to use, but experts have been wrong before. I'll bring it up at the Crankin "A's" dinner tonight.
Not sure what, if any oil filtration system exists in a ford banger motor but the reason you do not use modern detergent oils in old non-filtered oil systems is that detergent oils will hold debris in suspension in the oil running it through the bearings over and over again while with non detergent oils the heavier particles just sink to the bottom of the oil pan.
There's no filtration at all, so that's probably why. Thanks for the explanation!
ditchdigger wrote: the reason you do not use modern detergent oils in old non-filtered oil systems is that detergent oils will hold debris in suspension in the oil running it through the bearings over and over again while with non detergent oils the heavier particles just sink to the bottom of the oil pan.
Agreed. After running for the last 80 years on non-detergent oil, switching to detergent oil now could break loose 80 years of crud.
I don't really find motor oil interesting as much as the strange, misguided, unproven opinions on it and superstitions so many people hold.
In reply to ditchdigger:
Which is another common misconception. Unless the engine is coming apart and about to fail anyways, the amount of wear particles capable of doing any damage to a poured babbit bearing, assuming they are protected by good oil, are minimal, and said particles are smaller than the bearing clearances anyways, the oil will keep them form damaging anything. Those bearings are seeing a lot more damage from the unchecked acid buildup you will get in a engine running oil with no additives to combat it.
ACVW engines, which are only about 10 years more modern than a A engine, never featured an oil filter, and always recommended modern oils, yet manage to go at least 100000 miles between overhauls, spinning a lot faster.
If you're worried about crud build up flaking off run a 50/50 mix of ND30 and something modern for a few hundred miles, drain it out and then leave the ancient oil for the history books and windmill gearboxes(no additives to poison the water supply, which is the only thing it should really be sold for anymore).
Derick Freese wrote: Once you get it running, bring it up to Palatka and I'll buy you lunch one day. There are some nice places for pics up here if you haven't really poked around.
I'll definitely take you up on that offer; I'm planning a trip to Gainesville in a few weeks.
There is more modern A engine available with full flow oil filter. I've seen some at vintage events.
Contact Brad Penn oil company get their oil it works great in old stuff and has protective ZDDP aditives that old stuff needs.
In reply to 44Dwarf:
You don't need anything fancy or high zinc for the ridiculously low valve spring pressures of a 40 HP low speed flathead engine. They ran ok and didnt wipe cams left and right with next to nothing for EP in the oil when new. In all reality any brand name Xw30 or Xw40 motor oil off the shelf would work excellently. Cheap 15w40 diesel oil typically carries the 1200 PPM needed for such activities(performance V8 engines) anyways, as will most HD monograde oils.
/reply
Back on the topic of DDing a Ford Model A, how bad is it adapting to the sliding gear transmission? I understand these run extremely thick oil in the gearbox, so that must give some ghetto synchro action? Do you drive it more or less the same as a synch box, just paying more attention to the rev matching?
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