What to do with my 2000 Volvo S70?

foxtrapper wrote: ...There's a darn good chance that this is what is blocked on your car.

Thanks for that. I will check for this. I thought I replaced all the components, but I could've missed this.

bigdaddylee82 wrote: In reply to vazbmw: You probably already know this, but you're car's air cleaner box has a valve in the bottom to select where it draws intake air from. There's a snorkel to the grill for fresh air, and a long metal flex tube to the heat shield on the exhaust manifold. It draws air from around the exhaust manifold for quicker warm up, and to prevent throttle body icing...

Ya know, I didn't know about that valve until I hooked up my UltraGauge and saw that my intake temperature was the same as my engine temp. I was like.."WTH". So, started tracking it down and found that valve was stuck open letting in the heated air. The car was like a different car after that...but then the blow-bay issues started. Not sure if they are related, but they happened at about the same time.

Knurled wrote:

vazbmw wrote: You Folks always have great ideas and solutions, so I felt I should get an idea of what ya’ll thought. I have a 2000 Volvo s70 that has blow-by pressuring the crankcase.

Your flame trap is clogged, probably. It's a Volvo whiteblock rite of passage to pull the intake manifold and replace the whole crankcase ventilation system. Get thee to ipd and they probably have a kit of parts for you that includes all of the gaskets you need, as well as the hoses you don't think you need but will probably crack and break when you try to move them. My S40 (same engine, one fewer cylinder) would blow the dipstick out of the tube when I got it. Flame trap gunked up. A nice side effect of desludging the engine is that it no longer blows the dipstick out. I am a realist and don't expect this to be permanent, since I've done so many of them on customer cars. Not an if problem but a when problem.

I'm curious. What did you do to de-sludge your volvo?

Whenever I see threads like this, my first thought is rallycross.

In reply to mrwillie:

Desludge? Tell me more. I just made sure the holes in the block were not clogged...then changed the whole pcv system. What else should have done?

vazbmw wrote: In reply to mrwillie: Desludge? Tell me more. I just made sure the holes in the block were not clogged...then changed the whole pcv system. What else should have done?

I was asking a question. I need to clean / replace my system and I was hoping that you had a "shop secret" that I could use and wouldnt have to pull the manifold.

In reply to mrwillie:

Check the fitting at the intake hose first. Thats typically what plugs first, and it's a free fix.

That valve was the second thing i replaced. I was just hoping for a quick that i hadnt found.

Bummer. Trying to get to the lines to see if one of them has plugged is darn difficult without removing the manifold.

In reply to foxtrapper:

Yea, I know. Thats why I've been putting it off. I even tried putting the shop vac on the hose that goes into the top of the valve cover. The smoke got better for a few days, but went back to how it was. I need to do that and my timing belt but havent had time.

And back on topic....... My vote is for either rallycross or babe rally. Those seats are made for long trips.

As a red-neck technique, you can disconnect the line from the valve cover and just run an overboard dump. Shades of the 1950's!

In reply to foxtrapper:

There is no valve cover line on my model, but I am probably going to add one as a stopgap, until I rebuild the bottom end

mrwillie wrote:

vazbmw wrote: In reply to mrwillie: Desludge? Tell me more. I just made sure the holes in the block were not clogged...then changed the whole pcv system. What else should have done?

I was asking a question. I need to clean / replace my system and I was hoping that you had a "shop secret" that I could use and wouldnt have to pull the manifold.

Awwww :( I thought you had a secret weapon. All of my PCV parts are new. I have accepted that it is probably rings.

foxtrapper wrote: As a red-neck technique, you can disconnect the line from the valve cover and just run an overboard dump. Shades of the 1950's!

What do you mean by "overboard dump"? A catch can? Connected to the rubber hose that goes into the top of the valve cover and ends in the pcv reservoir? Interesting.... I have to try that.

I have an old oil bottle that had a line running from the dipstick and one from the oil fill cap. I still get pressure and have oil pushed out of the RMS.

Adding a catch can would be fancy! I just vented mine out with a bit of hose dropped down the front of the engine.

VAZBMW, It's the line beside the oil filler cap, on the left.

foxtrapper wrote: Adding a catch can would be fancy! I just vented mine out with a bit of hose dropped down the front of the engine. VAZBMW, It's the line beside the oil filler cap, on the left.

Do you have a really strong oil smell in the car? And w/ this hack, how bad is your oil usage?

I did ultimately fix it properly. But I ran the redneck repair for a number of months. It wasn't pumping oil out of that hose and there wasn't a strong oil scent to the car from it. With the hose hanging down low, fumes came out low.

It was the wife's car, and she never complained of a smell.

In reply to foxtrapper: Oh yes! I forgot about that hose. Yes, I do have this one. i was thinking of swapping the other valve cover for another oil-filler type valve cover and run a hose with a catch can. Thanks for sparking my memory.

In reply to vazbmw:

There's not really a "valve cover" per se on a Whiteblock. The top part of the head is also the cam cover, as in, it's the top half of the cam journals, is held in place with 40 bolts, is sealed with an anaerobic sealant, and requires some special tools and/or ingenuity, while holding your mouth just right to put back on. You may know that already, but me thinking out loud, that seems like a lot of trouble to add an extra breather hose.

If you're so inclined, you can pop the plug out of what wold be the rear oil filler, add another neck, and run a pair of caps, or maybe an extra vent back there. The BTCC cars did it, and I've seen a handful of other folks do similar, for ya know, reasons.

This one is a bit more extreme, with the extra venting ports/bungs added to the upper half of the head.

I mentioned it earlier, but running a larger ID hose from the oil sperator on the front of the block to the intake/flame trap really helped mine. I used 5/8" heater hose, it just barely fit between the intake runners, and I had to route it above the fuel rail, but was a noticeable improvement.

In reply to bigdaddylee82:

Duh! I total forgot that's how the cam cover applies. When I rebuilt the head, the thing with 500 screws in it...and that sealant! I was looking at it the other day and remembered that I would have to knock out the other plug. I will try the larger I.d. Hose.

OK! FIXED!

You guys were right. It was a clog. All PCV parts were new...except that little nipple on the intake hose. I don't have a flame trap, but I guess this takes its place.

Comparison of before and after.

After:

GRM never fails to have the answers. Thank ya'll very much.