EvanB
UltimaDork
10/27/14 9:34 a.m.
So after my Miata engine was ventilated this weekend (see here) I am trying to decide what to put back in.
- Rebuild the turbo 1.8.
- 13b that I have sitting in the basement.
- V8 of some sort.
- Throw in the stock 1.6 I have sitting in the basement.
- Other?
This isn't really a street car anymore, I kinda ruined it for that awhile ago. Although I wouldn't be against putting some interior back in and getting it back to street status.
Always spicy doritos in the peanut. Always.
Or...
5) Other. FE3. You got any Kia Sportages in your area junkyards?
EvanB
UltimaDork
10/27/14 9:47 a.m.
Oh yea, I forgot how I wanted to do an FE3 Miata at some point.
I kinda want to make a naturally aspirated, high compression screamer.
EvanB wrote:
Oh yea, I forgot how I wanted to do an FE3 Miata at some point.
I kinda want to make a naturally aspirated, high compression screamer.
Then in that case, you want to build a long-rod FE3. I have the formula around here somewhere, but basically it ends up as a 1.92 rod/stroke ratio 2.0.
The other alternative is an F8 DOHC. They're cheap. 1.8 litres. Rod stroke ratio is 2.0 from factory. Seen a few of them spinning well over 8000rpms with no work.
Here's a stock F8 with a snail strapped to it. Time sucks, but the revving is hilarious to me.
http://youtu.be/OdOh7mpi0ls
In reply to Swank Force One:
What could be done to a Sportage engine and transmission in terms of more horsepower? I'm looking for a drive train candidate for my TE27 Corolla Challenge car.
DeadSkunk wrote:
In reply to Swank Force One:
What could be done to a Sportage engine and transmission in terms of more horsepower? I'm looking for a drive train candidate for my TE27 Corolla Challenge car.
Motor likes boost. Will take far more power than a Miata motor will before blowing.
Transmission is going to be the hard part on challenge budget. In a light car like that, i'd say it should hold around 250whp. It's similar in strength to the Miata trans. Miata 6spd ALMOST bolts on, but it's not a real challenge friendly transmission. However, it would be strong enough to hold enough power to probably make you soil yourself in a TE27.
N/A wise... not sure what to do about power besides the standard of get compression has high as you can and open the head up. You can swap in the original Mazda cams for a decent bump. (Motor made 170hp in FWD mazda form, also with more compression.)
Many thing but option 1, then sell me the turbo bits.
V8. Low torque screamers are fun, but the junior leagues A high compression V8 with the right cam gives you all the throttle response, not just quality but quantity.
For getting back up and running quickly: stock 1.6 or 1.6+correct turbo manifold and MSM turbo stuff.
For a whole new can of worms: V8.
EvanB
UltimaDork
10/27/14 11:11 a.m.
I'm not really too concerned with getting it running quickly. Maybe if I let it sit awhile I will like driving it again when I have it together.
cghstang wrote:
For getting back up and running quickly: stock 1.6 or 1.6+correct turbo manifold and MSM turbo stuff.
For a whole new can of worms: V8.
The MSM stuff won't easily/feasibly/cost-effectively work on a 1.6, unfortunately.
Other weird option, if you're not trying to do this on a complete shoestring budget:
Want to just buy my car? The chassis is the worst part about it. Motor is a monster and already has a bombproof 2554 kit strapped to it.
EvanB
UltimaDork
10/27/14 11:25 a.m.
Swank Force One wrote:
Other weird option, if you're not trying to do this on a complete shoestring budget:
Want to just buy my car? The chassis is the worst part about it. Motor is a monster and already has a bombproof 2554 kit strapped to it.
At the moment it is a shoestring budget. I plan to collect things over time to do the swap.
The motor you have needs a DNR order - I would put a junkyard 1.8 in there.
That's the easy answer. It'll get the car alive again, and you can drive it as you figure out what you want to do next. Cars you can drive are more fun than cars you can't.
unk577
Reader
10/27/14 11:56 a.m.
I second the V8 option. Before you decide find a quality LS swap to take for a rest drive/ride.
So much fun I'm gonna build a DD LS car next year
Leafy
Reader
10/27/14 1:40 p.m.
unk577 wrote:
I second the V8 option. Before you decide find a quality LS swap to take for a rest drive/ride.
So much fun I'm gonna build a DD LS car next year
I would love to build a DD LS swapped miata. 5.3 aluminum truck motor, Upgraded T5 with LS adpater plate, PPF adapter, 3.63 miata ring gear with an MSM lsd and msm axles. Way cheaper and lighter than all the other swap, and I dont really feel the need for the ability to put down more than 400+ ftlbs.
I say to go with option 1.
Junkyard swap then slowlyget the parts for a v8. With a big honking supercharger sticking out of the hood for the hell of it.
Leafy wrote:
unk577 wrote:
I second the V8 option. Before you decide find a quality LS swap to take for a rest drive/ride.
So much fun I'm gonna build a DD LS car next year
I would love to build a DD LS swapped miata. 5.3 aluminum truck motor, Upgraded T5 with LS adpater plate, PPF adapter, 3.63 miata ring gear with an MSM lsd and msm axles. Way cheaper and lighter than all the other swap, and I dont really feel the need for the ability to put down more than 400+ ftlbs.
FYI, the L33 is noticeably weedier than an LS1 on the street, and the T5 shifter location doesn't play well with an interior. I wouldn't build that car, and I've owned parts of it Still have the damn T5 shifter hole in the tunnel. I'm not convinced it would end up as light or as cheap as you think it will. It would save about 75 lbs.
Leafy
Reader
10/27/14 2:55 p.m.
Keith Tanner wrote:
Leafy wrote:
unk577 wrote:
I second the V8 option. Before you decide find a quality LS swap to take for a rest drive/ride.
So much fun I'm gonna build a DD LS car next year
I would love to build a DD LS swapped miata. 5.3 aluminum truck motor, Upgraded T5 with LS adpater plate, PPF adapter, 3.63 miata ring gear with an MSM lsd and msm axles. Way cheaper and lighter than all the other swap, and I dont really feel the need for the ability to put down more than 400+ ftlbs.
FYI, the L33 is noticeably weedier than an LS1 on the street, and the T5 shifter location doesn't play well with an interior. I wouldn't build that car, and I've owned parts of it Still have the damn T5 shifter hole in the tunnel. I'm not convinced it would end up as light or as cheap as you think it will. It would save about 75 lbs.
T5z should have the correct shifter placement. Price probably would come out in a wash or only $500 ahead depending on built I'd want the T5 to be. But on the up side, the diff would be easier to route exhausts around, and the LSD options are better.