A battery puts out more juice at higher temperatures, but yes, higher temperatures do reduce lifespan. And if the charging system isn't temperature compensated, the battery will end up over-charged at high temps and under-charged at low temps, both of which further reduce lifespan.
I usually get batteries to last almost exactly 5 years. I am about to replace the one in Disco tomorrow because it is starting to lose charge if I do not use it for more than 2 days. I put that battery in just under 5 years ago when I bought the truck. Tomorrow she gets a brand new Odyssey battery to replace the Advanced Auto AGM I put in
I just changed the OEM battery in my Pontiac Solstice at the age of almost 10 years, not because it showed any signs of failing, but because I knew it eventually would and as changing the battery entails removing the front fender, and that wasn't something I wanted to deal with on the side of the road, I figured I'd pushed my luck as far as I should and saved myself a towing bill by changing 'early' Pretty happy with a decade of battery life for an OEM battery.
I put a NAPA battery in my Ranger in July 2010.... still doing fine. Moderately cold weather (Colorado), but the truck is garaged so that probably helps.
To answer the OP, I think they have reduced the amount of lead in the batteries.
While I do suspect I have a parasitic drain, the Duracell that came in my truck, first Duracell automotive battery I've ever seen, was dated 1/17 and wouldn't even take a charge by 11/18.
I put in a new one but suspect it is also dead by now as I haven't taken the truck anywhere since.
But I also went through 2 on the Vic in the year and 2000 miles I had it. The one that came with it was almost 10 years old, and the replacement just sucked, although I suspect pep boys damaged a battery cable on installation.
I've now heard it all..."Virgin Lead"
My WRX had the original battery from 04 in 2018 when I sold it. I was amaze. Still started just fine in the dead of winter.
We've been in SoAZ for 25 years. In SoCal, I can't remember changing but one or two batteries. Like ever, 10 years of driving.
Here in SoAZ, a three year lifespan is, OMG how did you get it to live so long?
Somewhere between 2-3 is average.
When I had the Focus, a little less than 2 on the factory unit, got near 3 on whatever O'Reilly sells, and replaced that just before I sold it.
They say it is the heat that kills them, and anecdotally from here sure seems true.
93gsxturbo said:dculberson said:Switch to Interstate batteries.
Why?
didn't start my SE for 8 months and it coughed to life so I'll second them. I have absolutely no idea how old it is but it looks crusty and still works. 
The cheap industrial battery in my zephyr is 6 years old and sits all winter in a non climate controlled garage and starts it after 6 months of sitting. That's the last battery I had goodluck with. I find 2 years is about the best I get with anything from parts stores gold series too rural king cheap batteries
I keep most of my cars on trickle chargers. I start out with .75a trickle chargers, then when that isn’t enough 1.25a, then finally 3a. They’re done after that and I go buy new ones. However, for our DDs I don’t keep them on trickle chargers and just replace them at the first signs of degradation with a new battery, turn a junk core in, and put the just removed battery in one of the classics on a trickle charger. At that point I’m able to get a lot more life out of them. I like Interstate batteries, but also buy a lot of Duralast gold because it’s convenient and they have a good warranty.
I don't buy the "virgin" lead bit. Lead is an element that has been around forever, and despite its usage in a battery, will be around forever more. Perhaps a lesser purity? Less quantity? Thinner plates?
Our 2015 GTi E36 M3 a battery in 3.2 years. Yes, out of warranty. Dealer offered OE but recommended Interstate.
I'm pretty sure all the major parts house brands and Walmart's are Johnson Control. One of my managers at AutoZone claimed ours were made different than the ones they sold to Walmart but I don't think I believe him.
The Mustang has a duralast gold because I worked at autozone at the time and that made it really easy to swap out batteries multiple times under warranty while I diagnosed a charging system issue.
WalMart and Interstate are/were both Johnson Controls, along with others. The difference is in how the buyer spec's their batteries and the price-point targets. Just like the OEM tires on new cars.
Johnson Controls merged with Tyco in 2016 to avoid US corporate taxes on foreign sales, then did a "Tax Inversion" and moved headquarters to Ireland to avoid US corporate taxes.
Daylan C said:I'm pretty sure all the major parts house brands and Walmart's are Johnson Control. One of my managers at AutoZone claimed ours were made different than the ones they sold to Walmart but I don't think I believe him.
It’s possible, and wouldn’t be surprising.
I would expect national chains to be able to pressure battery manufacturers to build to to a price point.
Just like HD and Lowe’s can push manufacturers to build to a price point on power equipment. The Husky trimmer or saw you buy at HD may look the same and have the same or similar model number as one for the local power equipment supplier, even though it has been “cost reduced”.
dculberson said:Switch to Interstate batteries.
This.
The Samurai has had the same interstate battery in it since I bought it 5 years ago. It shows no signs of dying any time soon.
No Time said:Daylan C said:I'm pretty sure all the major parts house brands and Walmart's are Johnson Control. One of my managers at AutoZone claimed ours were made different than the ones they sold to Walmart but I don't think I believe him.
It’s possible, and wouldn’t be surprising.
I would expect national chains to be able to pressure battery manufacturers to build to to a price point.
Just like HD and Lowe’s can push manufacturers to build to a price point on power equipment. The Husky trimmer or saw you buy at HD may look the same and have the same or similar model number as one for the local power equipment supplier, even though it has been “cost reduced”.
Walmart will absolutely have stuff built for them so they can be cheaper. Tires come to mind.
And the term you are looking for is "Cost Engineered." It's pretty common these days on everything up to and including buildings.
I find battery life is directly related to the condition of terminals and cables. That's also why new batteries last longer. My 24 year old truck is on its third battery. I cut the plastic cover off the side terminal to keep it clean. I've replaced the bolt and spacer, and kept the terminal wire-brushed and clean.
Battery related...
I have had great luck with these master switches on vehicles that don't move around a lot. Cars that used to drain the battery low enough to not start within a month can now go the entire New England winter and start right up again in the spring. Obviously you could just disconnect the battery terminal & accomplish the same thing, but I like that I can turn this on/off without any tools.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001N729FS/
As an aside, I tried a lesser brand from wal mart and did not like it... you had to unscrew it until it was practically falling apart in order for it to break the circuit. Replaced with another one of the GAMA ones.
Realistically, caring for a battery well makes a bigger difference in lifespan than the battery itself in a lot of cases. Proper charging voltage, keeping it fully charged, making sure the water levels are correct (if it's not a sealed battery), etc. all matters. In a car that sees a lot of short trips, especially in the winter when more power-sucking stuff is in use, batteries often don't stay 100% charged. So throwing it on a charger once a week to top it off will help longevity. If a car is sitting, keep it on a battery tender of some form (ideally something that'll do a proper float charge and is temperature compensated).
Simple words here. Replacement batteries don’t last because your vehicles wiring ain’t close to new anymore. It has little to do with who made the replacement battery. Sure there are better versions/manufacturers than others, but in the grand scheme doesn’t mean crap.
jharry3 said:I don't remember ever getting more than 3 to 4 years out of a battery and I have been driving since 1973.
That's my experience. When you see -30 occasionally in winter and 100+ in summer, no battery is going to last long term. I just realized last weekend that the truck battery that I keep thinking about as "new" is now over 4 years old.
RevRico said:While I do suspect I have a parasitic drain, the Duracell that came in my truck, first Duracell automotive battery I've ever seen, was dated 1/17 and wouldn't even take a charge by 11/18.
I put in a new one but suspect it is also dead by now as I haven't taken the truck anywhere since.
But I also went through 2 on the Vic in the year and 2000 miles I had it. The one that came with it was almost 10 years old, and the replacement just sucked, although I suspect pep boys damaged a battery cable on installation.
Well I'll be damned, it must have just been the Duracell battery.
I replaced it then promptly parked the truck for 2 or so weeks. Just went outside brushed 6 inches of snow off, little slow to crank, but fired up and it's thawing out.
Just replaced a 6-7 year old Honda OEM battery that was threatening to fail as it got colder. Went to pull it and the sides were swelled an excessive amount. Have seen this before on some old cars, what causes a swelled battery? Usually go with the cheap Autozone battery, tried whatever Tractor Supply brand is for something different this time.
You'll need to log in to post.
