Could I trouble you kids for plumbing help? I know less than zero!

It appears the cold water supply line for Ms. z31maniac's sink in the master failed overnight making quite the mess of water. From searching Lowes/Home Depot, and using the UPC code, I found the exact hose line I need. 

https://www.homedepot.com/p/BrassCraft-1-2-in-Nominal-Push-Connect-x-1-2-in-FIP-x-20-in-Brass-SpeediOne-Braided-Connector-and-Valve-G2PS19B200HX-F/205395457

Nearly all of my tools are still in my mother's garage from my divorce years ago, so I'll need to buy a few wrenches. Again, I won't feel like you're talking down to me, I know nothing about to how to do plumbing stuff. 

What tools/supplies do I need to order to successfully replace the supply line? Here is a pic, it appears it's copper coming out of the wall not PEX tubing. 

If the shut off valves still shut off, you should be able to get away with a crescent wrench. 

If the shut off valve doesn't, get a tubing cutter and a shark bite shut off valve.

Edit now that I checked your link. A shark bite remover is all you'll need with that BUT you're going to want to kill the water before it gets to the room, otherwise you'll have one Hell of a cleanup. If you can't find a removal tool at the box store, pliers work, but that looks pretty tight to fit.

In reply to RevRico :

Based on the HD listing, that shutoff valve is a compression fit on the supply line. At least that's how I as a non-plumber interpret it. Although I would hope that a crescent wrench and maybe something to hold the copper line would still work.

Unless it was the actual shutoff valve that leaked, I'd be tempted to replace it with a separate shutoff and line as it's usually the lines that tend to go bad instead of the one piece unit that incorporates both. 

In reply to BoxheadTim :

Seeing it better on my tablet, those look like shark bite shut offs on the copper. There is a real tool for it, but I've had better luck with a pair of channel locks. The wildcard it's how close they are to the drywall, it would be hard to use pliers without making a bigger hole.

I didn't click the link until after, I just got done building a set for my new toilet with standalone pieces because I didn't know that combo existed. 

That looks like it'll pop off with a set of Sharkbite tongs or a removal cap.

It should just be a matter of turning off your water supply, draining the system, using the tongs to push the plastic piece back into the shutoff, clean up the stub with some emery cloth, then push the new fitting on.

The half inch sharkbite removal cap is like a buck fifty. The tongs slightly more expensive but are way more comfortable to use IMO and will likely give you more leverage.

BoxheadTim said:

In reply to RevRico :

Based on the HD listing, that shutoff valve is a compression fit on the supply line. At least that's how I as a non-plumber interpret it. Although I would hope that a crescent wrench and maybe something to hold the copper line would still work.

Unless it was the actual shutoff valve that leaked, I'd be tempted to replace it with a separate shutoff and line as it's usually the lines that tend to go bad instead of the one piece unit that incorporates both. 

You nailed it. It looks like it's the hose itself that failed up near the connection to the faucet. Since I don't have the tools or know how, I unfortunately will just have to replace it with the same line and hope it lasts longer. 

RevRico, the shutoff still worked, so I killed the water so it would stop leaking. Now I need to go out to the curb and see if I can get a crescent wrench in there to turn off the water since I don't have the big T like I used to at my previous house.

BoxheadTim said:

In reply to RevRico :

I'd be tempted to replace it with a separate shutoff and line as it's usually the lines that tend to go bad instead of the one piece unit that incorporates both. 

this.

Right now that looks like the line is crimped onto the shutoff valve (meaning you're not replacing just the line, you're replacing both valve and line). The big annoyance with that is you need to shut the water off upstream (at the meter or the hot water heater or something) before you remove that fitting. If you get a separate valve and line, then in the future replacing the line means you can just shut the water off at the sink. I guess you might not need to replace the lines often, but if you're already in there i'd strongly consider that.

As far as tools, you'll probably only need a couple of adjustable wrenches and you can hold the copper line (if you need to, I'm not sure you do) with a small pipe wrench. You can also hold the line with slip joint pliers, or vice grips, or channel locks, etc but there is a danger of over squeezing the line and damaging it, which would make for a bad day - especially considering you don't have a lot of copper line accessible to deal with.

Looks like a water key is cheap, so I'll just add it to the order. 

The0rectical, are these the correct tongs you're talking about? 

https://www.homedepot.com/p/SharkBite-1-2-in-Push-to-Connect-Fitting-Stainless-Steel-Disconnect-Tong-U711A/206697672

I don't mind spending a few extra on some tools. I suspect calling my local plumber out here would cost me a $100 minimum to replace it. I just wanted y'alls expertise to help me out so I could save some coin and do it myself. 

Are there any tips or tricks to doing it correctly? Or literally just pull off the old line/valve assembly and push on the new one?

z31maniac said:

. Now I need to go out to the curb and see if I can get a crescent wrench in there to turn off the water since I don't have the big T like I used to at my previous house.

Do you have a water shut off in the house where the main line comes in?  That'd be easier than rooting around on the ground.

ThurdFerguson (Freeloader) said:

z31maniac said:

. Now I need to go out to the curb and see if I can get a crescent wrench in there to turn off the water since I don't have the big T like I used to at my previous house.

Do you have a water shut off in the house where the main line comes in?  That'd be easier than rooting around on the ground.

I don't think so? But I'm just going to order the big water meter key when I go to Home Depot later just to make it easier. It's only like $15 and it's a good idea to have one around.

I use this one. Is the quick disconnect clip. Stick it on the pipe and pull towards the fitting

In reply to RevRico :

So throw it on and just pull away from the wall?

Sorry if I sound a bit infantile with my lack of knowledge on this stuff. I just know if I screw something up, it's going to end up way more expensive to fix any mistakes I make vs just calling a plumber to handle it to begin with.

z31maniac said:

In reply to RevRico :

So throw it on and just pull away from the wall?

You're exactly right. There's a circular collar that goes just around the outside of the pipe. What they tool does is compress the collar evenly, so the teeth inside release and you can pull the valve off of the pipe. Generally a two handed affair. One hand uses the tool, one moves the valve. 

Though, the fitting in your picture (the picture picture) appears to be a half inch compression. Pretty standard, and you don't need the shark bite tool. Just make sure the water is shut off down stream or get ready for a new pool- unscrew and remove. I would replace said valve with a shark bite though, because I'm lazy and shark bites are awesome. Just remove the old valve, and press the new one on in it's place. You'll need a supply line separate from the shark note- to my knowledge they don't make an integrated one- and I hate integrated lines anyhow. Pain in the ass. Get a 3/8compression to 1/2 sink line (if they aren't actively drooling on themselves, the home Depot guy will know what that is) and do work. 

In reply to z31maniac :

Yep those are the tongs.

It's literally as easy as you described. The trip to the store is likely to be the biggest hassle of the entire project.

Sharkbites and quick connect fittings are pretty sweet compared to the old style shutoffs where you had to pull off the compression collar and nut.

FWIW I'd also separate the shut-off from the hose.

This far into the thread?

E36 M3 rolls downhill.  

The0retical (Forum Supporter) said:

In reply to z31maniac :

Yep those are the tongs.

It's literally as easy as you described. The trip to the store is likely to be the biggest hassle of the entire project.

Sharkbites and quick connect fittings are pretty sweet compared to the old style shutoffs where you had to pull off the compression collar and nut.

FWIW I'd also separate the shut-off from the hose.

Suggestions on the easiest/best way to do that? When I realized the shutoff valve and line were integrated I thought, "Why in the hell did anyone think that is a good idea?"

Datsun310Guy said:

This far into the thread?

E36 M3 rolls downhill.  

??????

Why do you need to change the style od shut off valve?  the ferrule will be embedded in the copper, which will then involve you cutting or grinding it off, which will then leave a groove that the shark bite thing won't seal onto, so you'll have to trim the copper, which will then be too short, so you have to punch a hole in the wall...

Just go buy a shut off valve with a compression fitting, reuse the nut and ferrule that are already trapped on the pipe, and screw the new on in place.  Chances are pretty good the threads will match up.  If not, then you can dig deeper.

Also, buy valves with a threaded fitting on top, and separate hoses, and change the other on at the same time.  Then go look at all the other sinks in the house...

In reply to z31maniac :

You wanted plumbing help.  It's the first rule of plumbing.  
 

My other rule is don't start plumbing projects in the evening. Wait until Saturday morning.  
 

Inevitably you'll be at Home Depot at 8:55pm in a panic.

z31maniac said:

The0retical (Forum Supporter) said:

In reply to z31maniac :

Yep those are the tongs.

It's literally as easy as you described. The trip to the store is likely to be the biggest hassle of the entire project.

Sharkbites and quick connect fittings are pretty sweet compared to the old style shutoffs where you had to pull off the compression collar and nut.

FWIW I'd also separate the shut-off from the hose.

Suggestions on the easiest/best way to do that?

You should be able to get separate pieces, ie a separate shutoff valve using the same compression fitting you've got on the current shutoff valve, and then just a standard hose that's something like 5-6 bucks to hook up the shutoff to the faucet. It's all standard parts, the problem is that there are a fair few different standards to choose from.

When I realized the shutoff valve and line were integrated I thought, "Why in the hell did anyone think that is a good idea?"

I'm guessing it's quicker to install and slightly cheaper than two parts. That way, the plumber who has a fixed-price contract with the builder who's slapping the house together manages to make another $25 for the job of doing the whole house.

Our previous place was full of these integrated connectors, only that IIRC some of them were also soldered on. Guess which one sprung a leak (and yes, I actually did call a plumber for that as my weekend plans didn't include accidentally setting the house on fire while soldering).

Streetwiseguy said:

Why do you need to change the style od shut off valve?  the ferrule will be embedded in the copper, which will then involve you cutting or grinding it off, which will then leave a groove that the shark bite thing won't seal onto, so you'll have to trim the copper, which will then be too short, so you have to punch a hole in the wall...

Just go buy a shut off valve with a compression fitting, reuse the nut and ferrule that are already trapped on the pipe, and screw the new on in place.  Chances are pretty good the threads will match up.  If not, then you can dig deeper.

Also, buy valves with a threaded fitting on top, and separate hoses, and change the other on at the same time.  Then go look at all the other sinks in the house...

If it is indeed the same fitting/hose assembly, it is a push to connect, not a compression fitting.

If it were a compression fitting, I would agree with your approach.

I hate plumbing. 

Datsun310Guy said:

In reply to z31maniac :

You wanted plumbing help.  It's the first rule of plumbing.  
 

My other rule is don't start plumbing projects in the evening. Wait until Saturday morning.  
 

Inevitably you'll be at Home Depot at 8:55pm in a panic.

Haha, no doubt! That's why I've been looking for advice on the interwebZ today. I play to go to one of the big box stores in the morning and then start messing with it.

SaltyDog said:

Streetwiseguy said:

Why do you need to change the style od shut off valve?  the ferrule will be embedded in the copper, which will then involve you cutting or grinding it off, which will then leave a groove that the shark bite thing won't seal onto, so you'll have to trim the copper, which will then be too short, so you have to punch a hole in the wall...

Just go buy a shut off valve with a compression fitting, reuse the nut and ferrule that are already trapped on the pipe, and screw the new on in place.  Chances are pretty good the threads will match up.  If not, then you can dig deeper.

Also, buy valves with a threaded fitting on top, and separate hoses, and change the other on at the same time.  Then go look at all the other sinks in the house...

If it is indeed the same fitting/hose assembly, it is a push to connect, not a compression fitting.

If it were a compression fitting, I would agree with your approach.

I hate plumbing. 

I do as well, but I still decided to ask our brain trust here before I just called the plumber and paid whatever he wants for 3 minutes of his time.

SaltyDog said:

Streetwiseguy said:

Why do you need to change the style od shut off valve?  the ferrule will be embedded in the copper, which will then involve you cutting or grinding it off, which will then leave a groove that the shark bite thing won't seal onto, so you'll have to trim the copper, which will then be too short, so you have to punch a hole in the wall...

Just go buy a shut off valve with a compression fitting, reuse the nut and ferrule that are already trapped on the pipe, and screw the new on in place.  Chances are pretty good the threads will match up.  If not, then you can dig deeper.

Also, buy valves with a threaded fitting on top, and separate hoses, and change the other on at the same time.  Then go look at all the other sinks in the house...

If it is indeed the same fitting/hose assembly, it is a push to connect, not a compression fitting.

If it were a compression fitting, I would agree with your approach.

I hate plumbing. 

I'm trying to see how the pictures posted above are not a compression fitting.  There is a hex nut on the end of the valve connected to the copper pipe.  Why would a push to connect fitting have a hex nut?  if you are talking about just changing the hose on the top, that is an integral part of the valve.  It's not coming off with cutting tools, and not going back together without clamps.