I've been casually interested for awhile, between car and Star Wars stuff. Then someone shared a Prime Day deal. For that price I guess I'm in.
How hard can it be?
I've been casually interested for awhile, between car and Star Wars stuff. Then someone shared a Prime Day deal. For that price I guess I'm in.
How hard can it be?
A lot of us already have an Ender 3. Great machine! There is thread about it in the build section.
You'll like it! And that's a great price.
That's the best entry level printer you can get. Don't modify it, you'll ruin it, they are magical little printers when left in stock form.
Because reasons, my boss just bought an Ultimaker S3 for the office:
I haven't had a chance to mess with it yet.
In reply to fanfoy :
Thanks for the link. I had quite a few Star Wars friends say they either have or had this one, and highly recommended. One has 3 different printers and has made decent helmets and props with this.
Keep an eye on it during setup. My bro-in-law had a print come loose from the base during a setup print with PLA. The entire hot end was enveloped in a PLA glob. Ruined most of the printer head.
Once you get used to using it and PLA, you'll likely want to move up to other types of filament and for things like ABS (more likely to survive use in a car or outdoors). For ABS and similar you'll want an enclosure.
The IKEA Lack table is a proven and cheap solution. Lots of info on how to build one and luckily most of the parts outside of the windows and the table itself are printed with cheap PLA filament.
Here's my Monoprice Select Mini in the enclosure I built:
They are a good first printer. I say first because the quality and limitations of the cheap Chinese stuff will have you looking a second printer before too long.
i started off with a higher quality printer before creality existed. I got the itch to "upgrade" to one of these cheap printers.
there is a HUGE difference between my 7-year old printer and my 1-year old Creality. The Creality is much, much lower quality.
if you buy the Ender, and you use it enough to decide it needs repairs/upgrades/maintenance, then it time to buy a non-disposable printer.
awesome hobby to get into, you'll love it.
It's assembled. Bed moves by the control panel. Still need to level the bed after covering with masking tape (recommended by friend) but I added a micro SD to SD cable, also recommended.
If that print surface gives you fits (I couldn't het better than 20% successful prints on it) ditch it and get a mirror from Ikea. I've been printing on mirrors for 6 years.
Elmer's purple glue stick or 50/50 water wood glue works great. When the bed cools, the print pop off. The bottom surface is glass smooth. That can be really good.
I am picking up a lightly used Creality CR10 v2 from a friend this weekend ... looking forward to start putting around with some new to me technology!
Any tips on good slicing software to use? If I understand correctly, you need to run the .sla file thru a slicer to create the g-code, correct ? Or am I barking up the wrong tree?
In reply to einy (Forum Supporter) :
That is correct.
Cura is good to start with, but there are dozens of them out there.
I've been meaning to buy one of these and play with it since I have a little more time thanks to COVID. I'll probably buy this exact one based off the reviews and praises (here).
I'm probably going to sell my modified Creality CR-10 mini when my new printer gets here.
if anyone is interested, let me know.
for all those window shopping, don't get caught up with thinking you need a massive build volume. Most fols rarely print anything larger than 200mm, and those big lrint beds are difficult to level.
thatsnowinnebago (Forum Supporter) said:In reply to RebaRos99 :
Can you print a canoe?
You can print a Kayak, so im sure you can!
https://m.all3dp.com/2/incredible-prints-can-you-3d-print-a-functional-kayak/
DrBoost said:I'm probably going to sell my modified Creality CR-10 mini when my new printer gets here.
if anyone is interested, let me know.
for all those window shopping, don't get caught up with thinking you need a massive build volume. Most fols rarely print anything larger than 200mm, and those big lrint beds are difficult to level.
Definitely interested, I have always wanted one but didn't want to fool with the mods so much for a first printer so something someone has pre-fooled with is a good start for me.
Paul_VR6 (Forum Supporter) said:DrBoost said:I'm probably going to sell my modified Creality CR-10 mini when my new printer gets here.
if anyone is interested, let me know.
for all those window shopping, don't get caught up with thinking you need a massive build volume. Most fols rarely print anything larger than 200mm, and those big lrint beds are difficult to level.Definitely interested, I have always wanted one but didn't want to fool with the mods so much for a first printer so something someone has pre-fooled with is a good start for me.
Shoot me an IM. I'll figure out what on earth what it's worth.
DrBoost said:If that print surface gives you fits (I couldn't het better than 20% successful prints on it) ditch it and get a mirror from Ikea. I've been printing on mirrors for 6 years.
Elmer's purple glue stick or 50/50 water wood glue works great. When the bed cools, the print pop off. The bottom surface is glass smooth. That can be really good.
Thanks. Trying to level the bed with the paper trick I kept digging the nozzle into the tape so I removed the tape. I'll try a test print this weekend when I have more free time. Trying to get motivated after work and eating and taking care of the dog, it's 7pm by then & I really just want couch time.
Printed the bed level test Sunday afternoon, my local mentor said it looked pretty good. See how it goes:
Not bad for a first print! It's one piece, not two stuck together. It printed the Empire logo first then the Jedi logo. Simple coin seemed to work, now to move on to some accessories like the filament guide arm and the fan cover.
You'll need to log in to post.