KCNC also has a 9-52.
Funny enough, people complain more about the shifting and the top end of the cassette and less about the performance of the 9t.
KCNC also has a 9-52.
Funny enough, people complain more about the shifting and the top end of the cassette and less about the performance of the 9t.
I'm 100% on board with eBikes, especially cargo eBikes, for commuting and around town. It is fantastic to be able to just choose not to sweat when you need to get somewhere in a hurry.
Around here in Southeast Michigan, eBikes are completely prohibited on all the MTB trails I've visited, is it not that way elsewhere? I see a lot of eMTBs for sale but not sure where I'd use one.
Tangent: traded an old Bridgestone XO-1 I was no longer riding with a friend for his underused Brompton. Now I'm living the folding bike/ bus commute life. It's pretty great at what it does.
In reply to Erich :
It seems to vary. Here in PA and NJ where I ride, e-bikes are essentially allowed. Some parks have "No Pedal Assist Bikes" signs, but I have yet to hear about that rule being enforced. One of my friends rides one due to really bad knees, so it's something we pay attention to.
Our local trails (Ohio) are still listed on mtbproject as "no ebikes" but either that's changed but hasn't been updated or just nobody cares to enforce it. A coworker similarly has an e-converted bike due to some knee rehab and I don't think has run into any issues riding at any trails in the area. I think for the most part the only places seriously enforcing ebike restrictions at this point are actually bike parks and ebike specific parks are starting to appear.
So last year I was getting bored with the CCM SL2 after modding it as far as it made sense to. After much scouring of the classifieds I did score a good deal on a slightly used 29" version of the same design. It started out like this:
And now, after swapping out everything but the frame and a front wheel, and transferring a couple parts over from the SL2, it's like this:
This addresses many of the SL2's major weak spots: The short length, (relatively) small wheels, and mechanical-to-hydraulic brakes. Haven't taken it on any challenging trails yet but so far it's way more stable than the very twitchy SL2 and seems a little faster on average. It's nice to be able to get a lot of power out of the brakes without having to use 2-3 fingers to squeeze the bejesus out of them too.
Specs:
Frame: Raleigh Huck, 18" T6 aluminum
Suspension: Himalo Drift 32 Classic remote lockout fork, DNM AO38RL remote lockout rear air shock
Brakes: ZTTO M840 full hydraulic 4-piston brakes with heatsink pads (resin front, ceramic rear), 203mm discs
Trail/mixed surface wheelset: 29x25.8mm internal ZTTO P3 Enduro wheels, 29x2.4 Maxxis Ardents (tubeless w/ homemade pipe insulation rear insert)
Urban wheelset: 29x19mm internal cheapo wheels, 29x2.5 Maxxis Hookworms (tubed)
Drivetrain: Eigertec EH500 pedals, 22-30-40t front chainrings w/170mm crank, Shimano TY500 front derailleur, KMC X9 116-link chain, Shimano Alivio M3100 rear derailleur, 11-40t 9s cassette (trail) or 11-36t 9s cassette (urban), Shimano Acera M4000 shifters. 662.5% gear range
Electronics: Cycplus M1 computer, Coospo ANT+ speed & cadence transmitter, Lanji BS01 laser projector LED taillight, Bell USB rechargeable headlight, USB rechargeable motion sensor remote alarm
Saddle: Cheapo saddle, GUB SD440 dropper seatpost
Handlebar: 700mm swept riser carbon handlebar, modified GA1 knockoff grips, KRSEC 50mm stem, compass, spring bell
Went on a ride tonight that turned out to be one of the most disastrous not involving any unplanned dismounts. First after getting a few blocks from home, I noticed the rear tire felt a bit soft (not surprising for a recently set up tubeless tire) and went to top it up with the mini-pump. For some reason I could not get any air in with it. I could accidentally let it out though, which lead to a debead and having to walk the bike home. There I was able to get it rebeaded and then I went back out. On the way back home I noticed the rear tire felt soft again, and when I got home I found this:
My best guess is that this happened from rolling up a ~8" curb at ~30kph, which I commonly did on the SL2 with Alexrims MD21s with no issues. I've always run cheap wheels but it seems that these ZTTOs, which are actually the most expensive I've had, might be made of cheese. Probably a good thing I didn't go straight to testing it on the nearby 3ft drop to flat.
Tried to fix the wheel, it's beyond conventional repair at the very least. Straightening the lip left it crumpled and lower in radius than the rest, and no combination of spoke tension/slackness could true the wheel. The tire was fine and the insert looked surprisingly flawless, I would've expected a huge dent to the insert at the least. Pretty crappy way to start the season, I guess I'll stick to pavement for now...
After trying unconventional repairs on this wheel I think I owe them an apology, they are stupendously hard and strongly resist being bent back into shape with the spokes loosened. Looking at the curb I hit, I think I used to go for a smaller crumbly curb nearby but this bike emboldened me to hit the big one at full speed. I think that one was my fault. Ordered replacements of the same model but I won't have them until June
Just got back from my 12-miler and completed it in a personal best for 2023! I observed the usual natural beauty along my route, but I did have something slightly unusual happen. Cars are rare on my route, but I heard one closing from behind. I'm running about 15 mph, speed limit is 25. Just as the vehicle is pulling alongside me, my left ear is assaulted with a very loud WooofWooofWooofWooofWooof!! I nearly jumped out of my skin. The car continued on by, and looking back at me, leaning out the window in the rear seat is a big ol' Great Pyrenees. Pretty sure he was grinning at me. I just had to laugh. What a great goofy dog!
In reply to GameboyRMH :
Spending good money after bad.
Those wheels are junk. Will be junk.
The problem is that the bike is relatively low end, so good wheels, especially those on the used market might not fit. I'm guessing they are 100/135 quick release wheels, in which case you may be able to find some older DT Swiss XM's in 29" flavor, but its going to be tough.
Don't run over/into curbs. Even on a World Cup DH bike I wouldn't suggest that (although DH tires and inserts would probably be alright.)
Yeah they are 100/135 QR, I knew going into it that it's an unusual hub setup for a 29" wheel. At ~$110 each though, they cost about as much as smelling a new set of DT Swiss wheels, and I wasn't able to find anything used...when trying to bend that wheel back into shape I ran across a video where a guy damaged some wheels to show how to fix them, and he found that it was vastly easier to damage a wheel on a step-up obstacle vs. a step-down. I was probably tempting fate before and finally got too greedy with the curb mounts...
In reply to GameboyRMH :
That is unusual?
That is what my first Schwinn was. Rode on 700x35 tires. Practically all of the 700C bikes we did were 135mm rear QRs.
I will pointedly ignore that this was 30 years ago.
In reply to Pete. (l33t FS) :
It's unusual in disc brake bikes nowadays. Most have through-axles, and there are a ton of different fork and rear axle width (and diameter!) standards.
One of my bikes has a 150x15mm through-axle front hub, and a 142x12mm through-axle rear.
pinkbike.com buy/sell is a great place to find used wheels. Facebook marketplace too.
A few years back I bought a pair of DT Swiss XR 1501 Spline One 275 wheels for $150. They retailed for over $1000.
In reply to Erich :
Ugh, did not consider discs.
In today's ObBike, saw a Cannondale M800 in Pete size (19") that the guy was selling because at 5'10 he was too tall to ride it. (I am 6'3) $350.
Went to look for the CL ad and it is gone. However there is a 1994 Super V for sale... and it still has cantilevers instead of having been infected with V-brakes.
hmm. Do I really NEED new tires for my car?
Are you a collector of vintage MTBs? Because if not, I'd probably steer you away from purchasing such old bikes. A more modern Surly Karate Monkey for the same price will ride 100% better. Or even a Diamondback Mason.
In reply to pheller :
I don't like modern bikes' weight or how tall/cramped the nose is. Makes it hard to hop around.
I can hop around just fine on my 140mm/130mm 29er.
Do you want a BMX bike? Something like a SE Bikes Big Ripper?
Or Retrsopec Klunker? State Bicycle Klunker?
Biggest advantages to go with a modern bike is being able to fit a dropper post and tubeless tires.
Hans Rey isn't held back by riding a 29" E-Bike. You won't be held bike by riding a new bike.
The reason I say this is because I've known quite a few "old bikes are better" diehards that didn't see the light until the spend some time on a modern bike and went back an old bike and quickly found it not as fun. The only reason they stuck with their old bikes for so long is because they never had the opportunity to spend quality time on a modern bike.
But hey, I make money off retro-grouches, so if you want to support that, go for it, I've got some old bikes to sell you.
In reply to pheller :
*shrug* More for me, then. I don't like sitting upright like on modern bikes, I am more comfortable with more of my weight on my arms, and being able to stretch out makes it easier to loft over things.
Anyway, I decided to look at it anyway just to have a look. It is a "Large" which has me a little concerned, but I am told that Cannnondales run short so it may work out anyway.
Work out as in you might not get it? A 6'3" you need better than a large.
Be warned that older shocks get real crappy and can be hard to replace and rebuild, although DNM has some weird sizes and are cheap. Head shocks just go rigid eventually.
You can also get the stretched out cockpit on a newer bike, sized down, with a longer stem.
At 6'3" a 29er would fit you so much better than old 26" short TT bike.
Well I paid some shred tax yesterday. I was bombing down a lightly used government parking tower and some combination of me getting too greedy with the corners and rain blowing in from one direction creating a wet spot on the pavement led to a nasty high-speed low-side drop. During the crash I thought my teeth directly hit the pavement, but what actually happened was that my cheek smacked the pavement and I felt it most in my teeth. Seems that my left hip took most of the impact and my left elbow took most of the scraping. Bike's ok apart from some scuffs and many things being knocked out of alignment. Helmet seems fine apart from the scratches but I suppose I should replace it as a precautionary measure? At least it's not a Troy Lee:
adam525i said:Glad you're mostly okay, definitely time for a new helmet.
I got kiddo a new helmet this weekend. She keeps growing! We went on a 3-4 mile ride around the neighborhood too on Saturday. I'm looking forward to getting back on my road bike soon. I was riding my Surly bridge club which is what I ride the most nowadays. I will post photos of our bikes next weekend. Kiddo has a Trek youth bike (9 speed I think).
I'm considering a new CAAD13 too or other aluminum road bike to save the carbon for races (if I ever get there again).
Anyone got experience with more modern disc brake road bikes? I like the idea of wider tire width? I'm strongly considering a CAAD13, Allez, or even ordering from Canyon. Anyone have any experience with Canyon? My Surly's are great but aren't ideal for what I am trying to get back into. My first roadie was a Gary Fisher (trek built) aluminum frame 9 speed 105 equipped bike. I miss the simplicity and utilitarian nature of it. My current very little ridden road bike is a 2013 or so Felt carbon bike with narrow tires and rim brakes. Discs are better in every way imaginable. I'd ride a modern Carbon bike too but I like the simplicity of metal and I'm not super fast anyway. I don't really need electronic shifting or SRAM Red or Dura Ace components either. I'd like a 2x11 drivetrain too most likely or 2x12 if that isn't crazy expensive.
Heading home soon and will take a short ride on my touring equipped Surly. I'll snap a photo as well.
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