Asking the hive.
Our boat is wired with 14 gauge wires to all the navigation lights with female spade connectors to plug into older incandesent bulb fixtures. I am trying to replace with new LED light fixtures. The LEDs come with tiny 20 gauge or smaller wires. I would like to install male spade connectors on those wires to easily plug into the existing harness. I was hoping to use simple crimp connectors, but even the small red ones seem too big. Any easy solutions out there?
My solution is usually strip the wire longer and fold it over to double up then crimp the terminal on. Not sure if that is the best way but I don't know of any 1/4 male tabs with a 24-22 crimp barrel.
EvanB said:My solution is usually strip the wire longer and fold it over to double up then crimp the terminal on. Not sure if that is the best way but I don't know of any 1/4 male tabs with a 24-22 crimp barrel.
This is my approach as well.
I have done that before. Maybe I'll repeat but make sure I get the shrink wrap tight between the wire and connector.
I was thinking of cutting a 1/4" piece of solid copper wire and sliding it in the connector with the 20 gauge before crimping.
You mean a connector like this?
newark.com is great for stuff like this. Same with Mouser.
Purple Frog (Forum Supporter) said:I have done that before. Maybe I'll repeat but make sure I get the shrink wrap tight between the wire and connector.
I was thinking of cutting a 1/4" piece of solid copper wire and sliding it in the connector with the 20 gauge before crimping.
I never tried that one, but I like it. As a untested thought, I like it better than the "folding" method (what I too, usually do)
Fold over your wire or shove a second wire in there. Shrink over the end to cover and strain relieve. OR get some uninsulated connectors, they are usually available in even smaller sizes. and shrink over the whole thing.
I'm not aware of any downside to the folding method. Some Japanese motorcycle manufacturers do that with their crimp connections from the factory. The fold provides an extra level of strain relief.
I'm really surprised any OEM would do something like that when they have access to basically any wire they want and can spec the connectors & contacts. There's a minimum bend radius which applies to both bare and insulated wire of any size and type; I think the folded over portion may fail at the bend over time.
It doesn't seem like good practice at all vs. finding a contact that actually fits the conductor. I kind of want to ask around the office where I work for a spec that allows or disallows this practice but I'm not sure I really want to go down that rabbit hole.
I understand there may be times where you're either stuck on the side of the road or you bodge a little and get home, but for long term, I'd go shopping for the better solution.
pres589 (djronnebaum) said:I'm really surprised any OEM would do something like that when they have access to basically any wire they want and can spec the connectors & contacts. There's a minimum bend radius which applies to both bare and insulated wire of any size and type; I think the folded over portion may fail at the bend over time.
It doesn't seem like good practice at all vs. finding a contact that actually fits the conductor. I kind of want to ask around the office where I work for a spec that allows or disallows this practice but I'm not sure I really want to go down that rabbit hole.
I understand there may be times where you're either stuck on the side of the road or you bodge a little and get home, but for long term, I'd go shopping for the better solution.
Yeah, I was surprised as well but the loop is past the crimp. It makes for a really nice solid connection and unless there's a significant pull on the wire there's no stress on the fold.
pres589 (djronnebaum) said:I'm really surprised any OEM would do something like that when they have access to basically any wire they want and can spec the connectors & contacts. There's a minimum bend radius which applies to both bare and insulated wire of any size and type; I think the folded over portion may fail at the bend over time.
If it breaks it's beyond the crimp. The wire is just filler.
I think the real answer at an OEM lever is that you wouldn't be using a spade connector with 20 gauge wire-- you'd be pinning it into some kind of spec'd connector.
Karacticus said:I think the real answer at an OEM lever is that you wouldn't be using a spade connector with 20 gauge wire-- you'd be pinning it into some kind of spec'd connector.
Well said!
One of my things (would fit in the "Kryptonite" thread) is focusing so hard on a little detail, I forget the big picture.
My ol' travelin' mate, Doc Wesley (RIP) always did accuse me of having too much engineer in me!
Thanks I have used the double over method many times, both crimped and soldered with heat shrink. Never recall having an issue. Obviously I prefer soldered with heat shrink, but that’s not always possible.
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