Best stud extractor

I'm, unfortunately,  in a place where I need a stud extractor. It's an 8mm thread sticking up about 3/8ths of an inch, so solid territory for an extractor, but not where vice grips will help. I'm not a tech, so, no snap on, etc. What's your go to? (FWIW, I've borrowed the snap on ones)

Still trying to find a good clamping stud extractor 

I have this Craftsman. Works great on MC engine studs. May not work in your case.

I've tried the clamp style and the eccentric style. I keep coming back to a pair of nuts jammed together or vice grips and a bit of heat.

Of the "proper tool" types I've used, the collet style have been the best.

In reply to fasted58 :

I used to have one. Didn't have the best luck 

In reply to ShawnG :

What brand? This is a broken bolt so not enough threads for the double nut

Put a nut down onto the stub and nuke it in place with a welder. Let it cool slowly back to room temperature whilst dousing it with penetrant. Use appropraite sized tool to unscrew the nut. 

In reply to Docwemple :

Snap-On but there are comparable ones on the Bezos site.

Cousin_Eddie (Forum Supporter) said:

Put a nut down onto the stub and nuke it in place with a welder. Let it cool slowly back to room temperature whilst dousing it with penetrant. Use appropraite sized tool to unscrew the nut. 

^ agreed

In reply to Cousin_Eddie (Forum Supporter) :

Maybe the nuclear route is the best. I usually like to use a tool but it would provide the necessary heat and save money for now.

For general stud installation and removal I really like the GearWrench stud sockets:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000K1KHB6/

I doubt they'll work if the "stud" is just a bolt that you broke the head off because it's stuck, though.  

In reply to codrus (Forum Supporter) :

I was curious about that set. The concept seems very similar to the snap on tool

I immediately go for the welded nut on the broken bolt; even if it is under the surface. 

I find a nut that is either the right size for the bolt or close enough, then drill the threads out so as to give the molten metal some room to go down the side. 

If the bolt is under the surface, I drill a hole in a piece of flat bar  with a hole instead of a nut and a "snowman" on top of the broken stud to bring the action up to the top. When ready to turn, I tap back and forth ever so gently until stuff moves.

If the bolt is REALLY down the hole, I use a piece of cupro-nickel brake line to shield the sides of the hole and blast the welder down the middle to get to the surface and weld to the plate.

You can put on a thick washer that just slides onto the broken stud and weld them together first.  This gives you a larger sueface to work with.  Then weld the nut to the washer.  
 

I also like nohome's flat bar trick