I installed mini two-wire turn signals (bulb, not led) on my one-wire 71 Suzuki T250. I connected the positive to the one power wire abd grounded the negative to the frame by placing a ring connector over the mounting threads of the lights and tightening against the frame. They light up, will not flash at all with an aftermarket flasher and will only flash the right side slowly for about three blinks. Left side stays on steady. What am I missing?
Two thoughts: One, could you clear up your description of what you have a bit?
The initial description makes it sound like you just have + from the battery to one side of the bulb, and the other side grounded, which would have them on all the time but not flashing. I expect this isn't actually what you have, because it doesn't mention the flasher anywhere.
Next up, you mention that the aftermarket flasher doesn't work at all, and then mention that the right side works, kinda, briefly, but don't mention what flasher is being used there (the original?)
So, if you could explain what flashers you're using and how they're wired in, that would help.
As far as guessing, the next thing that occurs to me is that the flashing unit may be designed to ground the circuit rather than interrupting it... I don't know, just a thought, but you could expect some pretty weird behavior if it was meant to ground the bulb and you installed it as an interrupter on the positive side...
Do you have instructions for the aftermarket one, or did you get to see how the original was wired?
In reply to ransom:
The aftermarket flasher does not flash the lights at all. The oem flashers will light the side I switch to, but will not blink (except for the occasional three wink situation when the right side is first switched on). They are wires to the original power line for the OEM lights (a complete set I do not have). They light's neagtive wires are grounded to the frame via a ring connector slipped over the thread portion of the new lights and tightened against the frame.
Use this stuff on all contact points. British and italain bike nuts swear by it. it does work well there is another brand that works a bit better but its over $40 for a tinny tube...
De-Ox it McMaster part number 8381T13 $28.81 Electrical Contact Cleaner Deoxidizer/Improver, Dispenser Needle,.85 oz Net Wt
So the circuit is:
1: Battery positive
2: Factory turn signal switch
3: Flasher (either original or aftermarket, and you've been swapping them out)
4: light bulb(s)
5: ground(s)
Is that correct? (plurals for front and rear indicators)
If that's the way it was from the factory, and the aftermarket flasher is supposed to be a drop-in replacement, then I think you're down to stuff like 44Dwarf is mentioning, and/or trying to disassemble stuff to the greatest extent you can to clean all the contacts.
That is, unless you've got broken wires on the side that isn't even trying, and/or are down to one or two strands kind of making contact under the insulation on the "good" side...
I'm guessing the reason the rights kind of, almost, think about working is that the contacts are slightly less dirty/corroded on that side.
Those ground rings' screws aren't sitting on painted surfaces, are they? That wouldn't do you any favors, either...
Man, wiring can be a pain, and I know trying to trace and describe it just as much so...
Make sure the connection to the frame is against bare metal and not paint. I suspect the switch itself is dirty or gummed up, take the hand control apart and clean it, but be careful as they often have tiny little springs that shoot off into the corner when you open the case. A pencil eraser works well for shining up the switch contacts.
In reply to stuart in mn:
I am going to check to make sure the contact with the frame is clean and I will be cleaning the contacts. I remember using an eraser to clean the pickup shoes on my old slot cars. Model train track cleaner also works well.
Moparman wrote: I installed mini two-wire turn signals ....
It could be that the bulbs don't draw enough current to heat up the bimetallic strip inside the flasher. Try a flasher meant for LEDs.
In reply to 914Driver:
Never thought of that.
Are they working yet?
These things always stick with me...
In reply to ransom: I will work on them today
Made certain that connections were clean and had good paint-free contact to the frame and still no flash. They light up nice and bright though. 
914Driver wrote:Moparman wrote: I installed mini two-wire turn signals ....It could be that the bulbs don't draw enough current to heat up the bimetallic strip inside the flasher. Try a flasher meant for LEDs.
This was my first thought. If the flasher doesn't read the correct returning voltage, it will think the light is bad, although, the way people drive around here, I assumed blinkers were just for show.
I'm starting to think 914Driver and Sperlo are on the right track... Congrats on getting the lights at least lighting brightly! That's gotta be progress...
You had weak light before, and partial blinking with the old flasher unit, right?
Do you now get no flashing at all with either unit?
In reply to ransom:
No, I always had very strong lights,but no blinking with any of three (two OEM and one aftermarket) flashers.
Every now and then I would get a few slow blinks on the right side with either of the two OEM units. Nothing from the aftermarket.
Hook up a multi-meter. Check the voltage after the lights.
In reply to N Sperlo:
Think that bulbs might be drawing too much power?
Whoops, guess I made that part about weak lights up...
I'm throwing my vote in with 914Driver's earlier comment about these possibly not drawing enough current to cause the flasher to flash.
If you want to test it without buying any more stuff, try jumping them so that all the lights are on either the left or right signal output.
For instance, remove the + wire to the left signal bulbs and connect it to the same output that right bulbs are connected to, so that when you turn on the right signal, all four signal lights should come on. This will increase the draw, and will hopefully cause blinking. If that works, then 914Driver's comment about getting a flasher for LEDs is probably the way to go. Or find higher-wattage bulbs that fit these housings. In any case, it would confirm that the issue is that the mini-bulbs don't draw enough to get the bimetallic flasher unit hot enough to flash.
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