Living With a Classic—Day In and Day Out

Story by Carl Heideman • Photography by David S. Wallens

Let’s say that you have decided to make a piece of classic machinery your usual ride—rain or shine, hot or cold, in sickness or in health. Overall, it’s a simple proposition. Back when they were new, most classics were intended to be used as daily transportation on one level or another. There’s no reason why that can’t be done today. 

Still, commitments like this should never be taken lightly. There are some considerations and preparations you should make, and since the classic-friendly months are just around the corner, now is the time to get to work.

Is It the One?

Chances are you’ve already picked out a car, but we hope you carefully considered whether it has what it takes to be your daily. While you may think about reliability first—we’ll get to that later—we think it’s best to weigh in safety and weather equipment pretty early on. Then you should consider how it fits your driving, parking and stowage needs.

For example, when it comes to weather and safety, a rubber-bumper MGB is probably a better choice for a daily driver than an MG TD or even an MGA. While the MGB may not top the T-series in the style department, the later car boasts a simpler convertible top, as well as roll-up windows instead of side curtains. The late MGB also features three-point seat belts from the factory plus door braces, real bumpers, a collapsible steering column and even headrests.

If you’re taking your three children to school, however, that rubber-bumper MGB isn’t going to cut it. You can’t just stick the kids in the trunk; a back seat can do wonders for their oxygen needs and your police record. Consider a Mini, Jaguar sedan, Alfa GTV or even a VW Beetle.

Also take into account where you’re going to park every morning. If you’re parallel parking at the office, you probably don’t want to drive an XKE. Its long nose makes it tough to park, and those low, little bumpers don’t offer much protection when Johnny SUV backs up a bit too far.

Is grocery shopping part of your routine? Then shop for a car with decent trunk or hatchback space. A Triumph GT6 makes more sense than a Spitfire, for example.

By now you’ve gotten the point. Committing to a classic isn’t just about finding the beautiful car of your dreams, but making sure you’ll still want it around when you wake up the next morning.

Is It Legal?

If you’re going to drive this car every day, you’ll need to make sure you’ve got your registration and insurance in order. We’ve discussed classic car insurance and historic licensing before, but that may not work for you with your daily driver. You might have to step up and get the same plates and insurance coverage that your modern cars enjoy.

While the state will be glad to issue a conventional plate and registration, you may find the insurance part a bit trickier. You’ll need to work with a company that will let you set an agreed value on the car and allow you to drive it on a daily basis, meaning trips to and from work plus those daily errands and shopping excursions. Make sure you’ve got this type of coverage and carefully read your policy.

The agreed value is especially important. For an example, if the insurance company follows the book value used for modern cars, they may only give you $1500 for your MGB in the event of a total loss—even though it would cost $7500 to replace it with a comparable car. Your policy should be a contract stating that the car is worth $7500 and that you can drive it every day and for every purpose.

Is It Faithful?

Now that you’ve chosen the right car and gotten all your paperwork in shape, it’s time for your commitment to commence. You’ve said your vows, but will she return the favor by faithfully starting, stopping and driving for better or for worse, for richer or poorer?

Look carefully at the safety equipment on the car. The tires, brakes and seat belts—it’s got seat belts, right?—better be in perfect shape. And don’t forget the horn. We consider the horn to be a major safety item. If that SUV driver doesn’t see you, hopefully a honk or two will prevent any disasters.

Almost all classic cars get an undeserved reputation for poor reliability—especially British cars. In reality, most classics are very reliable if you treat them right. Inherent weak points usually have a fix. The main impediments to reliability are deferred maintenance and lack of use. 

If you’re driving a 30-year-old car you just bought, you may find that the previous owners neglected a lot of maintenance during, oh, the past quarter-century. How old is the brake fluid? When’s the last time the battery terminals were cleaned or replaced? Does the windshield washer pump or the hazard switch work as intended? If you want this car to stick with you, you need to address those issues and more.

Just like deferred maintenance, lack of use is hard on a car. Nobody likes neglect, and neither do cars. If they sit for weeks or months at a time, their seals are going to stick to their mating surfaces. Electrical contacts inside switches and motors are going to corrode ever so slightly. Oil is going to seep out of the bottom of their engines, gearboxes and rear axles instead of staying where it’s most helpful. 

If you haven’t been driving your classic regularly, it’s poised for more potential trouble than if you are driving it regularly. Neglect is really worse than committed use.

Don’t Jump in Too Fast

Okay, you’ve got your ducks in a row and you’ve picked out a daily driver. Don’t jump in and take that long trip just yet. Spend a little time getting to know each other in short bursts before you lock yourselves into a really big commitment.

Start by running more and more errands with the car. Keep a sharp eye, ear and nose out for sights, sounds and smells of trouble and address them as quickly as you can. As you take care of problems, you’ll be making your car just a little more reliable and just a little more fun. Reward yourself with some pleasure trips, too. All work and no play isn’t right for you or your classic.

Time to Meet the Parents

When you’ve run enough errands and taken enough pleasure trips, it’s time to start driving to work. Continue to have your senses on full alert for any problems and fix them quickly. 

Once you’ve gotten to this level with your classic, be sure to show it extra affection. At first, check all the fluids at least once a week. Look under the car for big leaks, and keep on top of the tire pressures and brake adjustments. You may want to refine the tune-up as well.

With some real mileage and seat time under your belt, you can now consider longer trips. Maybe you’ll take it to the beach house for the weekend, or to that big show the next state over. Once you’ve accomplished a feat like this, you’ll be ready for that national meet a thousand miles away. 

The Long and Winding Road

How many roads must a classic drive down before you can call it a daily driver? We wouldn’t push it too far: Modern highways and traffic may not be the best scene for your classic. 

If your engine is turning 4500 rpm at 75 mph and your left foot gets sore from clutching through the parking lot they call I-5, then you may want to take the back roads and catch some scenery. Sure, it’ll take a little longer to get there, but isn’t that the point? You’ve made the commitment, so now spend that time together.

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Comments
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BimmerMaven
BimmerMaven New Reader
2/19/20 8:05 a.m.

I've never had a new car.

I bought a few in the 3-5 yr old range....  Mini van, Chevy G10 van.
 

All the rest (I'm 66) have been 5-15 yrs old.
All daily drivers.   As an example, I have 91, 99. 00 BMWs and a 99 F250 now on the road daily.
 

Breakdowns ruin any fun I might have driving these cars, so reliability is #1 for me.  That means replacing things before they break.  Rubber parts are my pet peave....brake lines, fuel lines , coolant, belts....and seals in pumps, icv's, hydraulic parts.

I like to pull the drive train, replace all routine wear items at once, while it's easy to get to them....not on the side of the road.  I do my research regarding known weaknesses, and fix them before they break.  I can then start the 10 yr/ 120K clock and RARELY have unscheduled repairs.

 

BTW, I don't kid myself that cheap parts save money.  For me, time is the most expensive part.

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