That front wheel is an 8x15 with a 195/45/15 tire on it. In final trim it'll be replaced with a 10x15 wheel with a 275 or 295 tire. Me thinks I need a fender flare solution.
That front wheel is an 8x15 with a 195/45/15 tire on it. In final trim it'll be replaced with a 10x15 wheel with a 275 or 295 tire. Me thinks I need a fender flare solution.
Your flares need flares!
I'm not sure it's the first thing you need.
Whatcha building? More details?
nocones said:Whatcha building?
I don't know either, but I like it!
It's an LS tube framed something that needs a lot more body for me to ID.
You need to work faster, so I can this completed!
Early Corolla, correct?
Sure looks a lot like an early 70’s Corolla front fender. My first efforts at body work was replacing the lower parts of these that had rusted off on my first car. Same color too!
Are flares ever a bad idea?
It's my perpetual Challenge car build. Tube framed 1972 Corolla SR5. An aluminum block 5.3 LS (LM4), TH350 trans, Miata front suspension and steering gear, 4 linked Ford 8.8" rear end. Even though the suspension is stock Miata width the combination of 10" wide rims and the narrower Corolla body will require a flare almost 6" wide to cover some meaty tires.
I like this. I approve of the proposed giant fender flares.
An older picture of the body shell...it's missing all the firewall, floor and rear wheel tubs now.
nocones said:I like this. I approve of the proposed giant fender flares.
I just need to figure out what kind of flares I want to do. Current leader is to use a trailer fender as a mold and make four simple round fiberglass flares.
Cool build! Give the flares some flair
For the fronts, you could just move the fenders out 6 inches, leaving gap at the front and in front of the door for some sick aero stuff.
For the rears, id talk to duster about t-shirts and hardener.
Roller chassis without the fender blocking the view. I weighed it with a bathroom scale just for giggles. 1060 lb with questionable accuracy.
Why flare when you can just widen the whole car? Sawzall down the middle!
THIS!!!
I narrowed the 10-bolt axle in the V8 Firefly nine inches to make it fit. Struts wouldn't fit because the engine was in the way, so I went double wishbone.
An instructor of mine widened an entire TR3 to fit 240SX drivetrain. You got theis, either way!
In reply to SkinnyG (Forum Supporter) :
When I started this I had ASSumed I would need a narrowed rear end, but surprisingly , the Fox Mustang axle is almost exactly the same width as an NB Miata rear. I even threw those rear wheels onto my NB and measured to confirm it.
There would appear to be gains that could be made with different wheel offset. Or is there inboard stuff in the way?
nocones said:Whatcha building? More details?
I don't know but I'm pretty sure it'll jab your eye out.
That looks awesome. Just put the wheel openings where the wheels are. You can fill gaps on top far more easily with flat sheetmetal than you can flare things. Just my two centavos . . .
In reply to NOHOME :
The 8" drag racing set of wheels are lower offset than the 10" autocross rims. With the autocross tires there will be a normal Miata gap to the front springs so higher offset wheels wouldn't work. Measuring the front width with the 10" wheels installed you get 70" to the outer edges of the rims, less the 11" actual width of the rims leaves a track width of 59". Stock is 57.6" with 6" wide wheels. The scrub radius is slightly increased but the wide autocross tires necessitated the extra overall width............................The real reason for it is the wheels were cheap and selection in 10" is limited.
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