In reply to Jehannum :
Sorry for the delay. Here's most of what I've got as far as AAN specific parts go. I've also got a spare stock turbo, crank damper, exhaust manifold (with wastegate), and a set of rear calipers that could probably stand to be rebuilt. Nothing too exotic or exciting, unfortunately
In reply to Turbine :
Sweet, let me know what you'd take to stuff it all in a box and ship it to me.
In reply to Jehannum :
Sounds good! I need to do some reorganizing in the garage so I can make sure I've got everything, but I'll work on getting you that info in the next week or so.
Got some time to track down my hydraulic leak this weekend. Started by removing the pump, tearing it down, and rebuilding it with new seals and some x plugs I scavenged from a junk AAN pump I had on the bench. Put it back in the car, started it up, and found that it leaked just as bad as before.
Running low on patience and hydraulic fluid (CHF11S costs almost $50/Liter at the FLAPS!) I started looking for other possibilities. Pretty quickly realized that I'd made a mistake when doing my vacuum brake conversion. The 3B pump is a piston pump for both the brake and steering stages, as opposed to the AAN pump, which is piston for the brakes and vane for the steering. I'd removed the pistons from the 9 and 3 positions of the pump, which I now know drive the steering. The brake stage, now capped off, was still attempting to pressurize and blowing out the o-ring.
Thankfully, I still had the pistons in a bag on the bench, so after pulling the pump again, I reinstalled these and removed the pistons from the brake stage (at the 12 and 6 position).
Just some pics for reference in case anyone else needs to do this in the future, sourced from this thread on QW.
So now the car runs without soaking itself and my garage, but we're not out of the woods yet. The car starts, runs for 30 seconds, then starts to sputter and die. I can keep it running using the throttle, but it won't stay running by itself. Haven't had a chance to dig into this too much yet beyond running codes, which returned nothing. Next step is a smoke test to check for vacuum leaks maybe?
FWIW, my AAN pump is running on Redline power steering fluid, and has been for around 100k miles. It's a lot cheaper than CHF11S.
In fact, I bought some CHF11S after my suction pipe developed a leak, and now it (the Pentosin) is in my Quickjack reservoir.
I've been having issues getting pictures uploaded from my phone lately (still haven't figured that out), but I've made some progress on the car at least.
This picture doesn't look like much, but this was the first time the car moved under it's own power in at least 4 years, probably more. Just needed to clean the MAF, and the car was able to run longer than 30 seconds at a time.
Took the car down the road about a mile and found the following:
- breaks up bad under boost
- wants to die as the car comes to a stop once it warms up
- oil leak from somewhere under the turbo
- more PS leaks?
- brake pedal's still a little soft
- rad fan might not be working?
- My oldest isn't convinced (Why's this car so loud, dad? It's missing parts)
Since these pictures, I replaced the diverter valve with a Bosch 710N and the N75 with a new OEM unit. The DV was cheap insurance and the N75 was suspect anyway. I also ran a smoke test and didn't find anything, although my setup probably wasn't the best. I also found and fixed a broken ground to the rad fan, and narrowed down my oil leak to the (brand new) turbo oil drain line itself. I must've messed it up somehow. Annoying.
Another test drive revealed some improvements. It makes about 10psi of boost now (still stumbles a bit, but it wasn't really boosting at all before), and it only died one time as I was turning around in the driveway to back into the garage. Beats the 5+ times it died on the first drive. The possible PS leak turned out to just be the gallons of fluid I dumped all over the engine bay burning off.
Next steps are to figure out a way to check for boost leaks, figure out a good turbo oil drain solution, remove and clean the ISV, add more fresh gas, adjust the shifter (getting into 5th is tough), bleed the brakes again, and tension the alt belt a bit better. It's squealing a bit now. Once I get more of these things sorted out, I can get the front end back on the car, build the headlight harness, do an alignment, then send the car out to get the exhaust completed.
I'm encouraged by the progress despite the still huge To-Do list I've got. I've put almost 6 miles on this thing this year. Not impressive, but more than it's done so far under my ownership at least.
Hell yeah man! Looks solid!
Turbine,
QW has a great writeup for boost leak testing the UrS4/S6 vehicles... and it's very nearly identical to our set up with the 200 20v.
The entire FAQ is really a solid resource for our vehicles, and that particular forum is much more active than the 200 specific one.
In reply to steve_3b :
I've actually got that (and several other pages from the QW FAQ) pulled up in tabs on my phone as we speak! Not sure what I'd do without that site lol
Im hoping to get some time to pressure test this weekend. Just gotta find the right size caps for the TB/ISV side. I guess I could always just be that guy and bring the hose to Lowe's and test fit some PVC caps. I really need a 3D printer
In reply to iansane :
Thanks man! It's getting there!
Got a new tool today. Turns out that the euro reservoir adapter is a perfect fit for the compressor outlet hose and allows you to use a motive brake bleeder as a boost leak tester on your 91 Audi 200 20v. This has been your Incredibly Niche Tool Tip of the Day.
Anyway, turns out I have a major leak at the inlet to the intercooler. Easy, right?
Nope. Audi used an o-ring and flange connector on this side of the IC, and of course the o-ring is dead and NLA. Probably going to look into an aftermarket IC to use and get rid of this connector entirely. You can see the o ring here.
I believe this is the right o-ring for the intercooler:
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/vw-seal-ring-genuine-vw-n90432402#description
At least from the part number on SJM:
http://www.sjmautotechnik.com/trouble_shooting/10vic.html
If that's not the right part I have a brand new o-ring sitting in my 20v intercooler in the garage before I decided to swap out the intercooler.
In reply to Karrm :
Nice, thanks! I must've missed that when I was searching thru that page earlier. Dimensions match, worth a shot!
Out of curiosity, what'd you do for a replacement?
It's pretty easy to miss, it's practically a scavenger hunt to locate a part in stock or to find a part number when replacing anything on these cars. I bought a full metal intercooler on 5-inline that uses all of the factory 20v intake routing and piping.
Look forward to seeing how this thing turns out. I've been following this thread for ages and made an account just for this.
In reply to Karrm :
Oh man, I may have to get one of those...
And thanks, glad to hear you're enjoying the thread. Hopefully it's not that much longer before I've got some actual functioning car content in here lol
In reply to Karrm :
Karm - which IC did you go with? The regular or the extra long version?
This is a solid option for my project so I'm curious how the fitment is.... got any pics of the install?
I have the regular one. Mounts the exact same as factory, two locating pins on the passenger side and one screw on the top.
i will say that it took some finesse to get it mounted, although I did do it by myself. Took a bit of persuasion using soapy water to get it on the pins and also have the screw hole line up. I think the whole issue there was to do with the pins being about 1mm further apart on mine so they deflected the rubber bushings and wanted to slide out. Could just be my car but that was my experience. Once it was in everything has been great.
i thought i had pics but i just checked my phone and couldn't find them so here's a pic of it not all that visible through the grill.
Thanks to Karrm, I was able to find the o ring I needed. Swapped it out and subsequent boost leak test was good at 15psi. But since I've never met a problem I don't over complicate, I ordered the replacement intercooler he suggested above as well (although the wait for it to ship has been killing me).
In the meantime, I found the source of my oil leak. My oil drain line tried to weld itself to the positive post of the alternator
An unfortunate and expensive lesson. I ran into issues trying to get the 20v alternator shroud to fit with everything else in the area so I just didn't run one, and now I'm dealing with the consequence lol
To keep this from happening again, I found a 10v alternator shroud. The 10v shroud is much more shallow and should allow me to protect the post while still having room for all the plumbing down there. I also ordered a new drain line. This one has a rubber sleeve. Might as well go full overkill right?
Finally, to kill the time while I wait for my new IC, I started work on the euro headlight harness. Nothing noteworthy on that yet. Still just laying things out
New IC arrived from Germany today. I couldn't resist throwing it on ASAP. The IC itself fits great, but the crossover hard pipe is interfering with the bumper support, which, in turn is interfering with the aux radiator. I should be fine after a bit of trimming of my turbo outlet hose.
Other than that, I'm waiting on some more 14ga wire to finish the headlight harness. Once it's done, I can put the rest of the front end together, get it aligned, and get out on the road.
Turbine said:New IC arrived from Germany today. I couldn't resist throwing it on ASAP. The IC itself fits great, but the crossover hard pipe is interfering with the bumper support, which, in turn is interfering with the aux radiator. I should be fine after a bit of trimming of my turbo outlet hose.
Other than that, I'm waiting on some more 14ga wire to finish the headlight harness. Once it's done, I can put the rest of the front end together, get it aligned, and get out on the road.
Looking really solid, appreciate the new IC pic. You're so close now!
Would you also document the new headlight harness you're building?
I probably need to do the same and would appreciate any insight.
In reply to steve_3b :
No prob! Let me know if there's anything else you're wanting to see while I've got the front end off the car.
And yeah, I'll do a post going over everything once I get the grounds tied in. Just wanna make sure it all works. I'd hate for someone to burn down their car based on bad info from me lol
So, cliffnotes version: I have working headlights now! I still need to wrap the harness, but I’ve verified everything works as it should.
Nothing here’s too groundbreaking, but just so it’s all documented in one place, here’s what I did to make it work. I’ll preface this by saying I’m not an expert by any means, so it’s totally possible (and probable) that I missed an easier way to do this.
To start, the materials list is as follows: (I bought enough wire so that I’d have plenty left over for other projects. You could get away with much less than what I used)
50 feet of 12-gauge Red wire and 14-gauge Brown wire. 30 feet of 12-gauge Yellow and 12-gauge White wire. 20 feet of 14-gauge Yellow and 14-gauge White wire. All of the above wire was purchased here, but feel free to source it from your favorite electrical supply provider. I also used 4x inline fuse holders, 4x 20A fuses, and 4x Hella weatherproof SPDT relay/kit. Then a standard variety of crimp connectors, ring terminals, and heat shrink. I found this Dorman kit to be pretty decent. Tools wise, you’ll need standard electrical tools – wire strippers, cutters, crimpers for open barrel connectors, a heat gun, and a multimeter. You can technically do this with 3 relays – one for both low beams and one for each high beam, but I went with one for each.
The new relays will be triggered from the original headlight wiring. Originally, the US-spec headlights are powered as follows:
Left – High beam (white wire/black stripe), Low beam (yellow wire/black stripe), Ground (brown)
Right – High beam (white wire), Low Beam (yellow wire), Ground (brown)
Cut off the original connector and strip the wire back. This was already done on my car (poorly) by the previous owner. PO had their relays located on the driver’s side of the car in the void underneath the AC condenser. I decided to do the same with mine.
To start, you’ll have to relocate the under-hood positive post originally mounted to the washer fluid bottle due to clearance issues with the headlights. I moved mine to the frame rail adjacent to it.
The relays should be wired as follows:
Terminal 30 to +12V source via inline fuse. (12-gauge Red wire)
Terminal 87 (relay output) to headlight. (12-gauge White or Yellow wire depending on high/low beam)
Terminal 85 to ground. I used a factory ground point on the passenger’s side of the car. You could also use the bumper mounts or make your own with a nutsert. (14-gauge Brown wire)
Terminal 86 (relay input/trigger). Extend the factory headlight wiring to this terminal using 14-gauge yellow or white wire depending on high/low beam).
I’m planning on wrapping my new wiring in Tesa Tape, although you could use Raychem-25 or something else if you prefer.
You can connect these to the headlights using standard uninsulated spade connectors. Verify the pinout of the headlight prior to making any connections. You should be able to see the wiring by popping off the Low beam cover. Mine was:
Ground (brown): Top (nearest to High Beam)
High (white): Bottom, beneath ground
Low (yellow): Bottom, next to High beam
The final pin is for the city light. I’m not using them for my setup.
The original connector from Audi is P/N 447 972 957, but these are NLA. There are also boots (Audi P/N 447 941 189) to go over these connectors, but they’re NLA as well. I’ve got a guy messing around with 3D printing these connectors and possibly the boots, but they’re not available yet.
After getting all of this put together, my right side low beam didn’t work. I found two separate issues, thankfully neither due to my wiring. First, the factory wiring for the passenger’s side headlight is broken somewhere between the headlight switch and the fusebox. Not a huge deal – I revamped the wiring to trigger both low beam relays from the driver’s side low beam wire. Next, I had a relay that was DOA. I ordered all four relays from the same source at the same time and received 3 Hellas and a knockoff. No surprise, the knockoff was bad. I verified this by swapping it with a (non-weatherproof) Bosch.
Once the new relay comes in, I’ll be good to clean up the wiring a bit, tape everything up, and send it. This is how the car sits as of yesterday afternoon. So. Freaking. Close.
so I did something dumb. Bought another turbo. What you're looking at on the right is a K24-7000, the stock AAN and 3B turbo. On the left is what appears to be a K24-7200, which came stock on the RS2.
But it's not. The CHRA and impeller is from a K24-7400 (Volvo S60r), the exhaust housing is a machined unit from a K24-7000, the compressor housing is a modified 7200, and the compressor wheel is from an original TTRS. Bits from 4 different i5t's.
Allegedly, this will be an additional step up from my 7400 currently on the car, and should be good for 450ish whp on E85. Machining and balancing was done by Iroz Motorsport back in the day, and the turbo lived on their shop mule before being switched out for a variety of EFR series turbos. I was told rods, head studs, and a tune were the only other things done to the engine. Since it's a one-off thing, tuning is going to be a bit of a pain, but it'll fit exactly like stock. I'm regretting not building the engine while it was out now, but 4 years off the road is long enough. I'll drive it as-is with the 7400 until it dies or I get bored of it, then move to this
Not really an update, just taking a moment to enjoy this. Need to get the hood on, but I need two other people to help angle it right lol
Nah, it's fun rocking no hood for awhile just to show people it's not just a normal 80s sedan.
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