Not a 100 percent,about 95 percent ,but good enough for the fiberglass glass mold to start. I can sand any little imperfections out of the mold, just a few tape marks, but the mold is very nice when you run your hand across it.
Not a 100 percent,about 95 percent ,but good enough for the fiberglass glass mold to start. I can sand any little imperfections out of the mold, just a few tape marks, but the mold is very nice when you run your hand across it.
a little red paint..it smoother than it looks.
To get mold perfect,after made, I will pour in water a little at a time, Mark water level.add more water, repeat a few times, remove water, sand last time to shape.
Mold is coming together nicely. Great shape, and still looks totally sleeper.
Hood on car ( the buck, not fiberglass hood ) eye level site line is good
From outside of car, I will sand mold to get perfect finish.the hood blister looks much higher in some of these photos.esp. The 1st photo .the 4th photo is better. Look of real size. I think colour and light made it look taller.
You can see from other alfas, look at light curves on hoods to get idea on the curve
Better photos,you be the judge.
Welded in engine mount braces this morning. Found out the front crossmember is very thin steel. So I will add some L shaped steel on both sides. Must be very flexible on a oem front end.
It went in very level
I used a bubble gauge and angle meter to set up. Bubble is off in photo, but I compensated for this.have not cleaned spatter yet. Will do soon. Look much nicer.last two photos are across,1 st on in the front of the brace.
Last photo looks bad, I was leaning on the car to.get photo
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I took.welding classes when I was in the army ( my real m.o.s. was 19d ) but I took the class to learn how to weld. I can weld very pretty lines on all steel. Except for 1984 Alfa Romeo Russian steel.burns thru way to easy from one place to the next, spots back on you. So if my welds look ugly. Well I had to fill holes, go over welds just to overlap them for strength. In few days I will grind them down to a cleaner look, then paint over
have idea for tail lamp panel. Looks to plain back there, so I was at tAps plastics getting lots of fiberglass for the mold and finished hood, saw this cool plastic sheets, I thinking epoxy this to a mirror background plastic base. Machine it to fit in back of tail lamp panel, surrounding the 2 tail lamp sections. Right fit around each pair of led round lamps, this will look a lot better than a panel with 2 round tail lamps poking out
Like this
Sorry haven't been back in awhile. I'm located in Sammamish which wasn't a city when you lived here. It's just north of Issaquah on I90. I may have some oem taillights from a spider I parted out 5 years ago. If you want I'll see if they are in my pile of parts. I've been slowly de hoarding my garage and shed's.l have 2 fiat spiders and my wife's alfa I can't work on because of all the clutter. Hood is starting to get there keep it up.
Brad, thanks...but a young lady took out the lights and damaged the panel also.so I machined a new panel to accept the new tail lamps. Thank you anyway. Have you though about posting your parts on the alfa romeo bb?
Yes I have put a few parts on the BB. Most of what I have left are just a bunch of nicnacky parts. Guess I missed the accident part as to why there are the round taillights. The one big item I have is the rear axle. I kept it cause it's a 3.75 lsd unit. I'm thinking about modifing it to work under one of my fiat spiders. Ones getting a turbo which I think can utilize the 3.75 better than the 4.44 in it now. Keep up the good work as I only get to watch others till my garage is cleaned out.
Rear suspension idea. Now I have Polly bushes on both ends of my trailing arms. Durring hard corners, I can lift the outside tire, this is not good, rear suspension is not supple enough. So my idea is keep the front Polly bushes on the front of the arms ( bodyshell pick up point) and run sperical bearings on the rear of the trailing arms. This will allow the axle to stay in the ground. I have been working on this idea for a few months, lots of thought process,and imagination on movement.
Now for fun part. Making motor mount brackets.pan and baseplate in the engine bay. Sitting on sandbags to get level.
Setting now a level with 3 degrees slope to the rear. After mounts are made, and engine and transmission are bolted in I can adjust with shims. Wil trim tunnel body steel to get bellhousing in the car.
With more power, about 90 to 100 more than oem. I need to fix the suspension,the front roll centre is under ground,and the rear is on top of the diff. That leads to a very steep roll axis. So I am building a panhard system for my spider. Made mock up to check for fit.have new steel, will build mount next week,as for the front roll centre. I will link into a way to move it, 1 or 2 inch above the ground, this will make for a flatter roll axis.
New dashboard design. Trying for similar shape as bodyshell.nice and simple, but elegant, shape with foam ( A) line is sheet metal base, so I can attach it to the body. 2 layers of glass for shape and strength,then a layer of carbon fiber for finish
instrument cluster will be in a pod on top of dash, but set into it a bit.
Foam to shape new dash. Shape foam to shape, cover with bondo ( so the resin won't eat the foam) sand bondo to finel shape, 2 layers of fiberglass, sand smooth, top layer carbon fiber.
More paper design work.
This is how you squeeze a 6 foot 1 body in back of a Alfa Romeo spider, the seats are in the car
the areas was working to remove the old top. Lucky for me I still race bicycle so at 175 pounds, I fit.
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