Is that engine driven setup going to be powerful enough? Alternators well in excess of 120 amps are a thing. If you do some scrounging you could probably come up with a suitable setup (alternator, couple deep cycle batteries, inverter) for the same money, little easier to deal with too (no refrigerant lines).
Toyman, I start tomorrow at Cohen Truck Parts. Let me know which Clark trans and I'll get you pricing. You can call me @ 717-two five 3- five 0 77 Don
In reply to BrokenYugo:
The engine drive kit is 13700 btu. That's 700 more btu than the roof mount and refrigerant lines are easy. It will also give me heat and defrost.
In reply to Don49:
Thanks Don. It will probably be a month or so before I'm ready to buy one, but I'll give me a shout.
I've determined that everything in SanFord is tied to something else. It's going to be a challenge.
This time it's the exterior vent for the range. The one that's on it has paint caked into it. It's aluminum and impossible to clean without mangling it. So, I ordered another one. Naturally it doesn't fit the original hole. 
Meanwhile, the original range hood didn't have a fan, but two hoods, with fans, came with the bus. If I'm going to be modifying the exterior vent, I might as well make sure it fits the new hood.
So I did this today.
Still not wired, but it's in enough to let me finish off the vent system, which will let me finish the roof, so I can get started on the paint.
So, last visit we were planning to install a new exterior range vent, because I couldn't get the old one clean. I had tried running it through my blast cabinet but made no progress. I thought it was the hard old paint.
Turns out I had actually turned off the air compressor for a change. With full pressure, the blast cabinet did the trick. The original vent was aluminum and vintage looking. The new one was crappy plastic, and huge. I used the old one.
Blasted, painted, hole scraped and primed and vent reinstalled.
I also replaced both drain vents.
Cleaned up, painted, and resealed the refrigerator vent.
Cleaned up, painted, and resealed the bathroom vent.
Everything is installed with a buytle tape and then covered, screws and all, with the white lap sealant. Once the roof is painted with the elastomeric paint, it should be completely waterproof.
The only thing left to do is decide which roof vent will be getting the A/C, and replacing the other one. Then a coat of paint or two and it will be 100%.
More to come.
So, would this elastomeric paint be something to consider for the underside of a restoration? Wheel tub liner maybe?
In reply to NOHOME:
I think it only comes in white and is made to be very reflective for roof applications.
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Kool-Seal-White-Elastomeric-Roof-Coating/17210942
When I did the work on the Samurai, I used a rubberized undercoating that worked pretty well.
http://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-248656-Automotive-Undercoating-Professional/dp/B003CT49AS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1456706814&sr=8-1&keywords=Rust-Oleum+Professional+Undercoating
We finally have glass.
Toyman01 wrote: We finally have glass.
...and i now have the Jaws theme stuck in my head.
Maybe this picture will help. I got some new rubbers too and they look to be the perfect fit. 
Sweet!
Run the AC up front so you can direct it toward the driving compartment during travel. Might be worth recutting the hole for maximum effect. Nothing like a steel bus with no AC in 110 degree heat crawling up a hill!
Just belatedly read your AC discussion. Look for a Cruiseair AC setup which our bus came with. It is the Coach style air conditioning that is mounted under the body instead of up on the roof. Then you can have a flat roof if you want and get away from the head room issue.
Awww Yeahhhh!!
Looks like it belongs there.
The rest of the seals are on the way and a piece of glass for the back door will be ordered tomorrow.
The new seal just looks so good with the old patina
http://akroncanton.craigslist.org/cto/5472963883.html
super cheap running/driving drivetrain donor?
In reply to patgizz:
As much as I'd love a DT466, it's just too damn big. 46" long, 41" tall and 1400 pounds. It's 6" too tall, 6" too long. I don't want to hack up the firewall and or the hood to make it fit.
I will probably end up with a 6BT Cummins or a 7.3 Powerstroke.
7.3 powerstroke will do the trick, especially if you turn it up a little or get one of the later ones (later years were up to 275hp with a manual trans), and based on max loaded weight with a trailer, the ZF6 trans (6sp manual, driven as a 5sp + granny gear) they came with should be usable too.
In reply to Toyman01:
A 6BT is no petite lump either. One reason the first Ram-era Dodges look like they do is so they could more easily stuff that engine under the hood, and it was still crammed in there length-wise. I sooo enjoyed working on that engine... not. My transverse, FWD TDI is down-right spacious by comparison.
Granted, it was better than the previous ('71-'93) generation, but I still would call it roomy under there. Add in the stout/thick radiator it uses and the A/C condenser, and I'd strongly consider a shorter 7.3 PS instead.
patgizz wrote: http://akroncanton.craigslist.org/cto/5472963883.html super cheap running/driving drivetrain donor?
I was hopeful that I was going on another road trip, but dad says it is to big as yall know. Tempting fate twice might be a little bit much. ;)
In reply to Ian F:
You are correct, but for some reason I have a intense, irrational dislike for the Powerstroke. The new ones in particular.
The 12 valve Cummins is like a sledge. Simple in design, get's the job done.
It will probably come down to which truck comes up for cheap money, when I have money.
I wonder how big a 6V71 is...
it's not irrational to dislike/fear/hate any powerstroke newer than the 7.3. there is a reason they don't hold their value and cummins trucks do.
12 valve Cummins would be a good choice, no computer to deal with.
http://www.depco.com/buyers-resources/standard-engine-specifications/ This site lists the 6V71 at 2010 lbs, 41" long, 39" wide and 48" high. It's even bigger and heavier than the DT466. I would stick with newer Diesels.
In reply to patgizz:
Even some of the later 7.3s don't thrill me. Too many stories of HPOPs, injector problems oil leaks, and wiring harness built into expensive valve cover gaskets. And those are just from the people I know. I'll be helping pull a 7.3 in a couple of weeks to replace a oil pan gasket. I'm not looking forward to that one.
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