In reply to LanEvo :
Yeah, I just looked at it again. I don’t even know how interchangeable Triumph stuff is, but that looks like the easiest of Easy Buttons for you.
In reply to LanEvo :
Yeah, I just looked at it again. I don’t even know how interchangeable Triumph stuff is, but that looks like the easiest of Easy Buttons for you.
dherr said:LanEvo said:In reply to TurnerX19 :
You don't need knowledge or skill to set up a EFI system (as long as it is stock). Can you hook up all the sensors (plug them in) and run power and ground to the computer? Also hook up a fuel line and pump? Then you are more than qualified to consider EFI engines. Seriously they are easier, not tuning required and run so much better than a carb. I understand where you are coming from, but it is so much easier that I prefer it for all my projects. I will likely swap my TR4A to EFI when I start re-restoring it soon.
It is easier if you stay away from the really modern stuff. CAN Bus systems and the like are going to make things way too complicated. I bolted my Miata motor and transmission into my Spitfire, wired it up and it fired right up. So stick with anything before the early 2000s and you will be fine.
yes to this. OBD2 is your friend. My Neon engine swapped Fiat was my first carb to EFI swap and it is the way to go in my opinion. I don't hate carbs but I love the convenience and drivability of EFI.
Looking forward to your progress whatever path you take.
In reply to Woody :
I know there are some minor differences between TR3 and TR4 engines, but they're fundamentally the same.
Buddy of mine who owns an E30 specialist shop is trying to convince me to go with an M20. He has a literal pile of them at the back of the shop. Would be close to free.
TR3 stuff will be close to a bolt in, but the gearbox (if TR3 or TR3A) is no synchro in 1st. Engine is 2.0 liter. TR3B and TR4 are 2.2 liter and synchro 1st. 2.2 pistons and liners fit right in to a 2.0 engine, and the rest of it is the same. Earlier style SU carbs work just as well as the later ones, and far better than the Strombergs that many TR4s came with. It sure is the easy button, but righ reving it ain't! You will get over it, torque is nice.
In reply to TurnerX19 :
Since the TR4 is NOT a TR4A, a TR3 would do very well providing the necessary drivetrain parts. The gearshift lever has a different angle. Triumph wasn't able to change a whole lot.
Woody said:In reply to LanEvo :
Any news?
He agreed to $500. Trying to arrange payment and pickup now
As of today, I'm in for:
But the TR4 came with several thousand dollars worth of spares, including multiple clean/straight body panels, a complete exhaust in brand-new condition, two radiators, stock seats, gauges, and what appears to be a recently serviced head. The seller tells me he's "got even more stuff that goes with the car in the back of my shed." (He could be planning to Texas Chainsaw Massacre me.)
Per Challenge rules, I can recover a maximum of $1000. So, I'm doing pretty well at -$100 right now. If I can (a) trade some of the spares for parts I end up needing and (b) keep paint material cost under $100, then I might approach a zero dollar build.
LanEvo said:As of today, I'm in for:
- $400 TR4 chassis/bodyshell
- $500 TR3 chassis/drivetrain
Per Challenge rules, I can recover up to the purchase price of each challenge car / parts car/ parts lot, up to a maximum of $1000 total, so I can recover:
- $400 on the thousands of $ Of TR4 stuff
- $500 on the TR3 stuff
- and I’ll still have $100 to recoup elsewhere
- and I’ll still have thousands of $ of TR4 stuff to trade
fixed
In reply to Woody :
Would you believe I haven't picked it up yet? Making plans to head out to CT next week
Woody said:In reply to LanEvo :
Have you had a chance to assess your winnings?
Just got it home. The engine turns freely. Not sure if that's a good thing or just means there's zero compression
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