Volvo P1800ES...kinda

In reply to Kendall Frederick :

Truth is I cant make any sense of the hardlines and/or their fabrication. 

NOHOME said:

In reply to Dusterbd13 :

Not familiar with the product. Source?

Is it this stuff? What exactly is it?

 

 

Pete

It's basically rockwool compressed into a quarter inch sheet bonded to the waffled aluminum heat shielding like you find under new cars with an adhesive backing. No lie I can put my hand on the back side of it and hit it with a propane torch and not feel the propane torch for a little while. You do have to make relief Cuts in it to make compound bends because it's quite rigid. It's not cheap but it is the right solution I do believe. It will be going in the trans tunnel of my Turbo Miata, and I've done the underside of my NASCAR with it after my experience is with it on my neon and the long tube header

I was able to find brand new OEM trans tunnel insulation for a Mazda 5 on eBay for under $50.  It was easy enough to trim and reshape for my Miata trans tunnel.  It made a BIG difference in heat transfer into the interior (stripped race car).  I mounted it with an air gap, something you can't really do with the adhesive variety.

I added a piece of universal sheet from Amazon to complete the coverage on the driver's side (no passenger seat).

In reply to Rodan :

I was looking at something like that. Thing is, the 4l60 transmission is a BIG boy in the tunnel and not much room for airgap. Also not much fun when you have to install and remove the drivetrain multiple times to make adjustments. By virtue of not being a solid like the dynomat product, I hope the fiberglass does a bit of the same as an airgap. 

When I was running the T5, there was noticeable hot air intrusion and that is going to be the main focus when going together this time. 

I've noticed when working on modern cars how the heat deflectors have an air gap to the chassis. It's something I'd like to somehow duplicate on my Spitfire.  I've also learned that even the smallest hole in the firewall will let a shocking amount of heat and noise into the interior.

I've looked at that DEI shield and wondered if anyone has had experience using it.  Sounds promising - thanks Duster.  Heat block on the outside with insulation for noise on the inside seems like the ultimate solution if space is allows. 

Oooh... An LS/4L60 in the Molvo? 

That escalated.... slowly. lol Glad to see your original injection plan finally going into execution even if through an unexpected route. 

Crackers (Forum Supporter) said:

 

...even if through an unexpected route. 

That last phrase pretty much sums up my life.

In reply to Dusterbd13 :

DEI on the W-A-Y!  Got the larger roll just to be sure. 

Pete

hell yeah, glad to see this on page 1 again!  also glad that your health has allowed your return to the shop!

So....DEI heat shield installed. Since I have a radiant heat tube as heat in the shop, I did an experiment: I held the stuff just under the  tube with the aluminum face facing the heat source. No measurable temp change on the aluminum or felted backside. 

Did the same test with the felted side facing the heat and the felted stuff warms up. The aluminum also warmed up. So this stuff seems to work like some kind of heat diode.

The E36 M3 is tricky to install as you most probably have countours that require cutting a lot of darts. The only thing that I found that worked well to cut this stuff is the angry grinder with zip-wheels. Nothing else touches the fiber bits. The stuff sticks plenty well if your surface is smooth and clean. I recommend doing a test patch to make sure cause the stuff is spendy. 

I was worried about moisture wiking into the fiber backing. So I went along every edge and dart that I cut to make it fit, with seam sealer. I am hopping that the seam sealer will also aid in the stuff not just falling on to the transmission over time.

The highlight of the day is that the acutall drivetrain is in to stay for the first "Last time"  time!!!!  The engine, gearbox, wiring and hydraulics all seem to clear what needs to be cleared. Stuff is bolted in to stay I hope.

Next up is wiring.

Looks like it belongs in there!  Nice work

I never tried it backwards. Good to know!!

And yeah, it's a bitch to work with. I have tin snips that cut it ok....

Beautiful work, how is radiator clearance to the accessories vs the small block ford?

In reply to Shavarsh :

Actually a bit more room to play with. The 302 has a lot of stuff protruding off the front of the block even further than the LS. This will come in handy since I switched to a thicker Volvo 2 speed fan and made a shroud for the fan.

Getting closer every day....

The engine bay is pretty much down to wires and rad hoses. A lot of wires!!!!

And this...I am so glad to have just now crossed "Exhaust System" off the list. If you only had an idea how many hours I have spend doing the shoulder/butt-crawl locomotion under this car while designing and fabricating the system. ! In the end I am happy with how it looks and flows. I used a dual-in-dual-out muffler as a mid-muffler. The bits behind the diff stayed from the previous system. Hopefully it all ends up out of harms way once it is on the road. E36 M3ty pics, but room and light and talent were against me. The new single middle muffler replaces two individual parts and also provides a cross-over function.  Concern now is that it might be too quiet. 

Pete

Looks good!  I love your regular progress; I aspire to the same but I get derailed with house projects, analysis paralysis, and similar stupidity.

In reply to Kendall Frederick :

Oh, I get the analysis paralysis bit, Trust me;  it lives in my shop right next to overthinking what I am doing.

And in case you did not notice, the steady progress is seldom linear.

Pete

Wow just getting caught up on this!! Amazing. Glad to see it moving into the modern engine age.