I’ll be starting a garage build here very soon and starting to consider what I should coat the floor with before I start moving in equipment and cars. What’s your experience and suggestions for products and techniques? Epoxy? Something else? I’m going to use a very light color for light reflection properties. Thanks for any tips!
Money-no-object I believe a grind and polish with densifier applied between grit changes and a sealer at the end is the most enduring finish you can create.
If that's not an option it really depends upon how you will use the space. I applied ghost shield, but regret it because it didn't give me the finished look I had hoped for. It still looks like untreated concrete. If I was doing it again I would use rust bullet for it's cost effectives and ability to touch it up years later.
If I was just parking cars in the shop and not working I would be looking at some kind of PVC tile.
I used industrial epoxy 15 years ago on fresh new concrete, it has held up very well to all sorts of abuse and chemicals. In another 15 years it may get a recoat. Light grey looks kinda like smooth concrete but cleans up nice, this is if you clean it.
I added the shark teeth for antislip, it is still real smooth yet not slippery when wet.
*money IS a consideration.
The garage construction itself is not leaving me with a lot to spare. The space will be used for both storage and working. 1600sf
I used the big box hardware store epoxy stuff when I moved into my house 19 years ago. Can't remember the brand. I made sure to etch it (used house) before applying and it's held up well for me. Couple of chips, but lots of dropped tools, oil, grease, etc and still looks decent. I'm sure a recoat would make a big difference, but it would take me weeks to get all the crap moved to paint it again. :)
I did not add the flecks to the paint after rolling it on and wish I had now. It's slippery with any water on it. I didn't add it at the time thinking I'll be laying on it and didn't want to scratch up my arms and back trying to slide around under cars.
With a new garage, I'm assuming you wouldn't have to etch at all.
-Rob
You'll want to etch or even grind the surface no matter what before applying most coatings.
Epoxies are typically thick which can hide imperfections in the concrete, and provide a bit more resistance to damage from dragging. But they all yellow a bit over time, and they can have issues with sticky tires picking up the coating. They're 2 parts, so you have to work intelligently and efficiently to lay it down before it sets up. For 1600sqft, you'd need to do it in stages where you mix a small amount, roll it all out, and then mix more. This can lead to a "patchy" look between the segments if you don't add any flake.
I chose solid color, light gray NOHR-S single stage Polyurea for mine. It's not as thick as epoxy, but it tolerates more chemicals, is more resistant to "hot tire pick up", doesn't yellow, and can be applied in lower temps. The Polyurea also has nearly unlimited pot life, so you can work at a more relaxed pace than epoxy.
I did rent a diamond concrete grinder before laying the coating. I then rolled out a 2 part epoxy primer, then the single stage color Polyurea, and finally single stage clear Polyurea top coat. They market it as a single day or 2 day job including drying/cure time. I must've rolled it on too thinly because what was supposed to be a single coat of primer was more like 2.5, and the color and clear Polyureas went 3 full coats each. If I'd laid flake out, I would've done it during the first coat of color and had a ton of leftover product.
I've been happy with it thus far. I bought the Polyurea during a holiday sale, and including the grinder rental and a couple hundred in supplies I'm right around$2/sqft for my 1532sqft shop.
I can't hotlink pics of the process or finished product on my tablet, but they're HERE
The flooring section over on Garage Journal is filled with different DIY products for different uses, budgets, etc. It might be worth doing some reading to familiarize yourself with some of the products and their attributes.
Pic added later:
My ex- used a brand name product from a home center. Rust-oleum, I think. Her main comments were a) the whole process took a lot longer than she expected (DIY, by herself), and b) she ended up needing 2x the amount estimated on the box, but she also painted the two courses of block wall that is below the stud framing.
In reply to STM317 :
Man that looks nice!!
Rust-O-leum has worked surprisingly well for me. At a very good price point. I think that most products will work well provided you do the prep right - which is easy if the garage doesn't have years of crap sunk into the surface. Just make sure the concrete has cured and you give it the acid-wash. Go solid color - you want those parts to be in sharp contrast to the floor, not lost in the pattern.
I used an epoxycoat kit for my new construction 2 car garage 13 years ago and it has held up fairly well. Buy at least 20% more than they say you need, I just about ran short.
I used a drill mixer, needed for mixing that quantity. I also must have screwed up one of the batches as it didn’t want to cure quickly.
Call Paul!
He a real person who will make sure you get the right product at the right price.
For any type of resins call Paul. I've never meet him in person but when i did resins he's who i cal the man knows his stuff.
get your self some aerator shoes plastic soles with spikes on them they will allow you to walk on the wet epoxy if you find a pooling section of a lite section.
rustbullet... garagejournal.... have a snack and drink handy, you will need it if you start researching this topic there.
If you wanna see what surfing garage journal cost me....
In reply to Lof8 :
Thanks! I added a pic above just for simplicity.
I forgot to mention that the polyurea is pretty interesting stuff. It's basically plastic, but it bonds to just about anything other than smooth plastic and stays there for good. Don't get it on your hootus is what I'm saying. And change rollers frequently. I used 2 or 3 rollers for each coat. With a floor as big as you're planning, I'd strongly suggest 18" wide rollers. They will save you critical time.
Let me know if you have other questions.
All the coatings look very nice and I was about to do the rust bullet that's been mentioned. But be aware of how the space is going to be used. I do a good bit of metal fabrication so lots of hot metal and sparks. That kind of stuff will not be friendly to any coating. Based on some feedback from garage journal I went with a densifier and then a sealer over it. I used the consolideck LS densifier and then topped it with consolideck concrete protector. It was super easy as you do not have to burnish the top coat like some products. Everything was put down with a garden sprayer. I've not had anything stain the concrete and if it ever needs recoating just spray a new coat on. Plus it was very cost effective. After I built the garage that was a real concern.
I did the rock solid polycuramine in my basement safe room and utility room. The finish is fantastic; I double take all the time because it looks wet out the corner of my eye.
A one car garage kit was barely enough for a 6x14 room and the two car garage kit only worked in the 13x16 utility room because it was the second time I had used the product and I knew to spread it very thin early on. I don't think I could get a normal garage done with less than double the recommended product.
You’ll have my vote for the tiles that click together. I priced it out to just do half the garage (the half where I’m actually under the car). It wasn’t bad, is TOTALLY diy friendly.
Have a project at a buddy’s garage? Take it over there? Working on a car in a parking lot? Take it there. It beats laying on a cold ass concrete floor. No mess, and if you move, it goes with you.
I knew I would be doing stuff in my shop that would probably scratch, burn, etc an epoxy or plastic tile type floor. In addition the concrete was not new had some cracks and rust stains plus had a fairly rough broomed concrete finish . I ended pressure washing then heavy etching with muratic acid. I allowed a few days to insure floor was really dry. I then coated with Seal-Krete mixed with Behr Concrete paint a according to the Seal-Krete instructions. Rolled on about two to three coats. Less expensive then epoxy or tile/race deck and has held up very well for ten plus years. Easy to wipe up and sweep. Used.a light beige paint which reflects light well. As with all paint type projects it all in the preparation.
[Canoe Epoxy] is the best for your garage because it has a low lifecycle cost thanks to its longevity and durability. It’s easy to maintain and, never needs to be polished or waxed [... only occasionally paddled!]
In reply to Flooring :
Canoe!!!!!
I used Seal Krete mixed 50/50 with Behr Concrete Paint it has held up well for 12 or 13 years now to a lot of abuse. Like most paint projects 90% is in the preparation. Pressure washed concrete with 3000 psi pressure washer and then heavily etched with muriatic acid then waited until it was completely dry and applied two heavy coats with roller.
15 months later I'm still happy with my Rustbullet.
I'll echo what STM317 said. I put Rustoleum down from a big box store. Etched brand new concrete, then rolled it on. Lasted about a year, the first time I pulled in on sub 200tw tires, it peeled right up.
Almost 3 years now and rust bullet looks the same as the day it was put down.
if anyone wants some red, black, and white flake for their floor, I have a lot leftover.
Best canoe floor covering?
Go with a single color if you're actually going to be working on cars on it. Otherwise, when you drop a small nut, you'll never be able to find it again.
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