clutch job, how hard could it be?

So I spun the stud that holds the starter on. I will need to pull the motor to get to the back side of the starter mounting anyway.

While I am in there, I should do the clutch. How hard could it be? any special tools?

That is, unless I can get the starter of without pulling the motor, any ideas there?

1991 Audi quattro 20V.

Thanks,

Eric

this has potential....

If you give a mouse a cookie...

SVreX wrote: If you give a mouse a cookie...

I know nothing about Audis, but this sounds like a true statement. You can get really crazy if you want, but it sounds like it would be way easier just to figure out how to get the starter out. Unless you have like a week to kill replacing a clutch.

I got the starter out (and new one in). It turns out one of the bolts was threaded and the other went through and had a head on the other side. WHO designs things like that?

So I guess I won't have to do the clutch (this time).

Silly Audi.

Weird, isn't it?

"Conventional" wisdom had it that folks from the Far Eastern part of the world were inscrutible. Whoever thought Asians were inscrutible never ran into engineers from the German car companies.

Dang, this had potential to be the fastest lawn ornament thread.....

SVreX wrote: If you give a mouse a cookie...

It will ask for a glass of milk.

EDIT: I actually stumbled upon this hoping you wanted to change my Zx2 clutch.

traded the Audi for a Jeep. See avatar, it's blue

EricM wrote: I got the starter out (and new one in). It turns out one of the bolts was threaded and the other went through and had a head on the other side. WHO designs things like that? So I guess I won't have to do the clutch (this time). Silly Audi.

Who? Mazda!!

I was replacing a right rear transverse rod on my '93 Protege last friday, the inboard nut on the bolt easily came off (surprise), push the bolt forward, BANG, fuel tank is in the way. drop the fuel tank, drop the entire rear suspension crossmember, or cut the bolt. I cut the bolt, and everything is temporarily held in with a 1/2 rod with double nuts and washers.

I'm off to the dealer to order a 10 1/2" x 14mm bolt that'll cost HALF the price of the transverse rod. Fastenal is not exactly around the corner, and at about $17 for the bolt, and gas, and not wanting to stress that rod, not viable.

I can't wait to find out how much the pair of trailing arms I need are going to cost, since Rock Auto, advance, etc..don't/can't get them. And as they are rust-hole corroded, they must be replaced. Where those bolt to the body have captured nuts, though there's also removable covers should I need to get at those nuts. But, Mazda screwed this one royally. Thankfully I'm not paying anyone to do this.

EricM wrote: traded the Audi for a Jeep. See avatar, it's blue

Nooo! Your car was everything that mine wanted to be! I loved the color, second only to Audi's Lago Blue.

Saab's "NG" 900s (and I imagine the 9-3) used a threaded rod on one side of the starter and a bolt and nut on the other side.. the one with the bolt was also used to mount the engine to the transmission