DrBoost wrote: I'd have liked that to have been disclosed to me when I bought it, just would have made life easier.
I did tell you. You didn't believe the guy who owns one of these?
DrBoost wrote: I'd have liked that to have been disclosed to me when I bought it, just would have made life easier.
I did tell you. You didn't believe the guy who owns one of these?
Is the piece that the stud thing goes into stationary, or does it need to swivel? I'd find some allen head cap screws and drop them in from the top so there isn't anything sticking up.
Ian F wrote:DrBoost wrote: I'd have liked that to have been disclosed to me when I bought it, just would have made life easier.I did tell you. You didn't believe the guy who owns one of these?
I didn't realize you had the same one. That, plus the bogus 4.75" spec led me to believe I wouldn't have to do that. I think it's crap that I have to modify the unit, AND buy planks of wood but, it's only $1500 so I can't complain.
I'm sure it's way better than jack stands though. Maybe if I ever get a car on it I'll know 
moparman76_69 wrote: Is the piece that the stud thing goes into stationary, or does it need to swivel? I'd find some allen head cap screws and drop them in from the top so there isn't anything sticking up.
That's the plan. The screw would drop through the top and thread into a plate that is not part of the assembly. Looking at the picture below.....
The part in question is on the right. The left side of the pic shows the part in it's assembled position. What you see is the stud that is now welded into the bent plate. I can get a tapered bolt (the hole in the arm is tapered) and drop it down from the top and thread it into a plate, recreating what they used to use and gaining 1.5" of clearance. For now though, I've got the planks and I'll cut a groove in it to pass over the hydraulic hose and use it as is for now. I just want to change my oil!
We use one of those in a flat bay. It's generally useless but there if we need it.
There are a pair of 2x12s that cars get driven onto. Lowered cars still don't fit.
If the rollers ride directly on concrete, get some thick steel for them to roll on. They eat concrete and turn thin steel into bananas.
It would be easier/cheaper (after cutting studs down) to just build up some stacked gradual ramps to get the car up to flush so u can pull lowered cars on. Getting fancy, it would be cool to set up the ramps with some kind of quick release anchor, or maybe just fasten some angle iron to the floor at the front corners, so you can pull the boards out of the way once a car's in the air but not have them slide around otherwise.
You'll need two 2x's on each side. It should clear a lowered car fine with those.
You haven't posted what risers came with your lift. Mine came with three. Low ones that are simply pads the slide onto the arms, and two riser pads. One about 5" and the other about 8". I use the 5" riser to clear the underside of a Mk IV.
Yes, its worlds better than stands and being able to do suspension and brake work with everything at waiste level feels like a luxury.
Center access to things like exhaust and drive shafts is obstructed, but still better than working on your back with bolts inches from your nose.
Even with the ramps, being able to park over the lift when not in use is nice.
I've found that any new piece of equipment seems to take a certain amount of messing around with before I'm happy. In the end you'll have a usable lift that you didn't have to put a ton of money out for. The first time you use your lift will be the same time that you forget about any issues you had setting it up.
Ian F wrote: You'll need two 2x's on each side. It should clear a lowered car fine with those. You haven't posted what risers came with your lift. Mine came with three. Low ones that are simply pads the slide onto the arms, and two riser pads. One about 5" and the other about 8". I use the 5" riser to clear the underside of a Mk IV. Yes, its worlds better than stands and being able to do suspension and brake work with everything at waiste level feels like a luxury. Center access to things like exhaust and drive shafts is obstructed, but still better than working on your back with bolts inches from your nose. Even with the ramps, being able to park over the lift when not in use is nice.
I'm going to post a full write up after I've had the Golf and minivan on it. I figure those are different enough that I should have a decent idea of what it's like to work on/with.
Thanks all for your input.
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