How to Choose the Right Tools for Cutting Metal

A big part of being grassroots involves making things out of metal: brackets, supports, bearing holders, levers and more. Sometimes you’re making things from scratch; other times you’re modifying a part from one application to fit another. No matter what the task, one way or anothe…

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I have finally learned what the name (and 'actual purpose'?) for this thing is!

I came up in the southwest in an era when almost all factory exhaust pieces were stainless anyway, so if cutting mufflers was ever a common thing, i missed it.. I think i've owned one or several of these tips for most of my adult life, though. 

Vigo (Forum Supporter) said:

I have finally learned what the name (and 'actual purpose'?) for this thing is!

I came up in the southwest in an era when almost all factory exhaust pieces were stainless anyway, so if cutting mufflers was ever a common thing, i missed it.. I think i've owned one or several of these tips for most of my adult life, though. 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NtioHM40adQ

I grew up in the Northeast in the heart of the rust belt when exhaust systems were mild steel.  Cutting parts of exhaust systems was definitely a thing and I used those so much that I've worn them out. However, the oxy/acetylene torch is my preferred weapon of choice for exhaust work.  In some circumstances and in the right hands it can actually be the most precise tool. 

Because it won't cut until the metal reaches a certain temperature and there's a natural thermal break between two components it's possible to cut away one part that's in contact with another with minimal to no damage to the adjoining part. 

For example you can cut an outer pipe off an inner or vise versa.  You can also cut a nut off a bolt without damaging the bolt.  I've even cut king pins out of truck axles with the torch.

I've been getting pretty good results with the combination of a Milwaukee portaband saw and a Swag Offroad stand. Won't do anything big but for angles, square, and probably round stock it's very handy. 

Jump Shear??  

Beverly Shear?

This.

is my new best friend.

It cuts sheetmetal WAY faster, quieter, and more accurately than any other method I have.

I wish I had this a year ago.

surprised that there was no mention of a(slow blade speed) 14" Carbide chop saw.   clean, fast, cool cuts that are true and ready to weld.

it can also shave off tiny slivers to fine-tune length.   the abrasive chop blades just deflect.

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the torch and plasma cutters take practice and a steady height and travel speed to make a clean cut.   when machine-controlled, the edges are remarkable.

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remember that high pressure, low speed, and CUTTING oil are the rule for toothed hi-speed steel blades.    high pressure means chips or curls.   low pressure and high speed will overheat the tips of the teeth....instantly dulling them.   ditto for drill bits.

In reply to Pete. (l33t FS) :

What is that? 

In reply to yupididit :

Milwaukee m12 nibbler I believe

In reply to gixxeropa :

Yes.

Also known as the machine that goes BZZRP through sheetmetal like it was nothing.

I usually use it on the lowest speed, because like any really good power tool, it can also make mistakes really fast too.

My sheet metal go to...

gixxeropa said:

In reply to yupididit :

Milwaukee m12 nibbler I believe

Thanks. I have a bunch of m12 stuff

I am going to be *that guy*

It is a bad look that your first 'best practice' is 'be safe,' but you have pictured a 4.5 grinder with a cut-off disc on it and the guard removed...