JDM engine swap and retrofit wiring conversion

I'm interested in some knowledge from you guys who've done some modern EFI engine swaps. I'm currently in the planning phases of my future project. 

Here's the gist of the project. Planning to swap in a Nissan VQ35DE into my mid 80's minitruck. I already have the engine and trans I pulled from a donor Infiniti G35 car I purchased for parts for the repair of my daughter's car. What I'm needing to know is what other specific wiring harnesses, fuses, and etc. will I need to harvest from the donor to be able to install the OBD2 port into my non-OBD truck. The purpose for this is for being able to have diagnostic capabilities related to vehicle usage. 

I've read some posts where others were asking a similar related question, but those seemed to be focused on data logging, etc. I understand the engine/tcm harness is seaparte from the BCM, ABS, and other modules and I know in some vehicles they talk to each other via a CAN bus protocol. Since I'm not looking to integrate or convert my truck to ABS and all the body control stuff I just need to know what exactly I need from the interior harness to have the PCM communicate to the OBD2 access port. Currently, I don't have plans to modify the engine or trans from the OEM tune or hardware. I will have to install some digital odometer/speedometer unless someone can give me a low budget option to get my trucks current mechanical gauges to work with the digital signals from the PCM. 

I should note this project is an extremely low budget endeavor. 

The VQ engines uses a weird power distribution setup, the IPDM that controls a ton of stuff that you'll either need or need to wire around. The PCM has an immobilizer(NATS) so unless you use the whole ignition setup you'll need to tune that out. I used the company UpRev. The fans are CANbus controlled through the IPDM so you'll either need to trigger with a separete system or run the IPDM. I'm pretty sure all the cluster info is CANbus as well because there is a separate module (Unified meter control module or something?) that feeds the cluster all it's signals.

You can get wiring diagrams and pinouts here;

https://www.nicoclub.com/nissan-service-manuals#350Z/

Is it auto or manual?

Um, sweet project! Would love to see pic or build thread.

id recommend pulling as much wiring and as many modules from the donor as possible. It's easy to get rid of later (but also factory wires and connectors are really useful for other mods and you'd have a ton of colors to work with).

i don't have g35 specific knowledge of what will be needed to run the engine and what won't. That knowledge might be hard to get in a short timeframe at all. But again, if you pull it all now at least you'll have it.

In reply to iansane :

Pardon me for my lack of acronym knowledge, but what is the IPDM you reference? I saw that on the other threads but have on clue what exactly it is much less than where it's located and what it does. 

So for clarification, even though I've already disconnected the engine and trans harness from the battery and pulled with the powertrain I still need all the ABS, BCM, IPDM, etc. and their respective harnesses. Will the PCM create some sort of anti theft lockout if it doesn't sense the NATS? Please bear with me as I try to wrap my head around all these systems and how they're integrated into and communciate with the powertrain system. 

The donor car is automatic although I'd prefer to keep the truck a manual. I've seen where ppl have swapped manuals into some of the auto z350 cars, so I know it's possible but probably not on my budget contraints. Plus it kinda defeats the long term purpose of my project which is to make the truck a backup vehicle which any of my clan can drive if/when needed. 

No worries! We all start somewhere. IPDM is the 'intelligent power distribution module'. It's what activates a bunch of circuits on the car. It's mostly CANbus controlled but does have some regular circuits. I don't know on a g35 but on a 350z it's a white-ish unit in the engine bay near the firewall on the passenger side.

Yes, if the PCM doesn't get the right signal from the ignition it'll trigger NATS and the car won't run.

I don't know much about the automatics but I have to imagine that you would need way more modules and their inputs with it than with a manual. With the manual you can get away with basically none of them. No ABS, no BCM and if you creatively wire you can ditch the IPDM for a more normal relay/fuse block.

I'd be wary of swapping an automatic ECU into a manual vehicle. It's going to be looking for a TCM that you don't have hooked up. Best case you bypass the TCM with a resistor, worst case it won't start. 
likely what will happen is the ECU will rev limit the engine because it thinks it is in park or neutral. 

To break this down into the simplest terms you are going to have to pull all the wiring, harnesses, and modules related to the powertrain.

Does the donor/parts car currently run and move under it's own power?

This is really looking like a mess of a project to salvage the oem PCM and retrofit. I can only assume some of this cross communication of the IPDM and other modules is to act as an extra anti-theft feature so bad actors can't just pull a motor and away they go. 

Because the engine has some form of VVT is there a standalone ECU that will operate with that functionality? If so, and it's not to costly, would going standalone be a far better option? That might allow me the option to retain my stock five speed even though I would have to fab a custom flywheel. 

Another thing I forgot about was the VQ is DBW and will require swapping the pedal along with the wiring retrofit. Is it possible anyone produces a DBC throttle for the VQ?

I may have been wrong earlier about my truck being non-OBD. It is a mid 80's Mazdawg and came with the computer controlled carb, so it acutally is likely a OBD1 vehicle. That being said I have modified a few thing under the hood and eliminated pretty much all that stuff. Went to a Weber and that was an improvement but the vapor locking and overall operation was lack luster, so I found a decent deal on a Holley Sniper 2300 TBI unit and fabricated an in-tank fuel pump and carb adapter. Probably the best thing done to the truck. Putting the VQ in would sure help in the power department though. It would give it at least 2.5x more power than the puny 90hp it might have now.