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Trackmouse
Trackmouse SuperDork
3/14/17 8:07 p.m.

Watching the 3hr old MCM video, I'm like fifteen minutes in and now I want one. Several near me for about 2700-3000$. What should I know/avoid/run from? How easily Can the EFI be removed and turned carb'?

MrChaos
MrChaos HalfDork
3/14/17 8:11 p.m.

buy one and throw an ls in it

Trackmouse
Trackmouse SuperDork
3/14/17 8:21 p.m.

Nah, I'm sick of engine swaps. I wanna build what's there. I'm reading it's the "slowest" corvette ever. But I'm used to cars with like 90hp, so the slowest vette is likely the fastest car I'll ever own.

MrChaos
MrChaos HalfDork
3/14/17 8:30 p.m.

here are some ways to do it.

I did this swap when I had the L83 in my 84 and it was fairly stright forward. Leave the wiring for the sensors, Oil Temp/Presh and Water temp Put a regulator between the feed line and return line with a T going to the Carb (I had mine set at 6PSI) If you have an auto install a TC lock up kit (Check post by Slambo you may not have to do this one but I did) Replace the distributor with a non-ECM controled unit (76 Corvette HEI works well) Select as low profile intake and air cleaner as posible. Thats about it remove the X-fire bolt up the new intake and carb and start the motor. All of your gauges will work fine so don't worey about that.
i did this to my 85. 1- for fuel i used a carter elec pump and mounted it in the back. I removed the intank pump and extended it with a piece of 3/8 fuel line hose. I used the origonal fuel pump power wire to power the pump. 2- you need to get the geometry of the 700r-4 cab linkage right , use this link.http://www.transmissioncenter.net/700R4.htm The part is $33. You can go to 700r-4.com and buy an internal lockup set up for $70 3. Hood clearance is an issue. I used a weiand stealth intake with a drop air cleaner 3" element and had to use a flat lid. If you don't plan to go over 5500 rpm or use nitrous i would use a edelbroc performer intake and then you don't need the flat lid, ( but you still need the drop base) You'll also need holley bracket 20-95 ( i think) it's the 700 r-4 and throttle bracket. I can recommend a car if you tell me your motor specs.
patgizz
patgizz UltimaDork
3/14/17 8:32 p.m.

No, its not by any means the slowest, or even slow. They're high 14 second cars stock which is quick enough to feel fast on the street. Now full size v6 sedans, my wife's charger for example, are high 14 second cars. For the early 80's it was FAST. 70's cars were pigs. I like the crossfire setup, but if for some reason it isnt what you want a carb is as easy as an intake, distributor, and regulator away. A friend of mine had one when i had my 91(last tpi year) and she was .5 off me at the dragstrip. It was a little harsher ride but it handled nicely.

Keith Tanner
Keith Tanner MegaDork
3/14/17 8:42 p.m.

People forget just how much better the '84 Corvette was than the '83.

Streetwiseguy
Streetwiseguy UltimaDork
3/14/17 8:57 p.m.

They appear, with the clamshell hood, as if they will be easy to work on. Holy E36 M3, are they ever NOT easy to work on...

GTXVette
GTXVette HalfDork
3/14/17 9:01 p.m.

It's worlds Different than an 83 since they Don't exist. Pete Gossett wanted an LS so in the first few pages of his build are some referance titles to check out.

pete is staying with an LT for now because of expence of the Swap check out "Poor Life Choices" In Builds and Projects.

I am Building a warmed over 84 Myself.

Trackmouse
Trackmouse SuperDork
3/14/17 9:11 p.m.

In reply to Streetwiseguy:

How so? My 1984 cramit SUCKED to work on, it didn't have the clamshell, and had at least three feet of nose past the radiator.

Trackmouse
Trackmouse SuperDork
3/14/17 9:14 p.m.
Keith Tanner wrote: People forget just how much better the '84 Corvette was than the '83.

C'mon now guys, be nice to me. Pretty much Everything I've done up to this point has been Japanese. I couldn't even tell you if it's an l83 or l88 or whatever.

GTXVette
GTXVette HalfDork
3/14/17 9:24 p.m.
Trackmouse wrote: In reply to Streetwiseguy: How so? My 1984 cramit SUCKED to work on, it didn't have the clamshell, and had at least three feet of nose past the radiator.

That's why I cut mine OFF, Lol

Iusedtobefast
Iusedtobefast Reader
3/14/17 9:36 p.m.
Keith Tanner wrote: People forget just how much better the '84 Corvette was than the '83.

I see what you did there!

pointofdeparture
pointofdeparture PowerDork
3/14/17 9:44 p.m.

If you just want to cruise and have fun, nothing wrong with a 1984 L83 car (though the '85+ gets the L98 with TPI and an extra 50 horses so if you have the choice go newer). If it's going to see the track or anything like that it's worth spending a little extra for an '89+ car with the 6-speed.

I was looking hard at C4s before I bought my BMW and the 6-speed L98 cars ('89-90) are at a very attractive price point right now, most people seem to really want the LT1 and newer body so those years offer a hell of a lot of car for cheap, under $5k in my neck of the woods. But a 4+3 or auto car is just fine if you don't care about any of that.

No matter what you go with though, it will suck to work on. Invest in a good back brace...

Streetwiseguy
Streetwiseguy UltimaDork
3/14/17 10:17 p.m.
Trackmouse wrote: In reply to Streetwiseguy: How so? My 1984 cramit SUCKED to work on, it didn't have the clamshell, and had at least three feet of nose past the radiator.

I have an 82 Camaro, and even with a small roots blower it is far, far easier to do almost anything on it. The front of the engine is inaccessible from the top due to the hood, and the bottom because of crossmembers. Working from the side is more like fixing an inboard ski boat. Leaned over a tire with no support. Can't sit on the tire, no room for feet. Can't take tire off, too many pointy brake parts. Trust me, it sucks. I changed an engine in one once, and I won't make that mistake again.

The third gens suck with the backwards, narrow hood. I think C 4's are worse.

vwcorvette
vwcorvette SuperDork
3/14/17 10:32 p.m.

I've had few issues working on and swapping the engine in my C3. 4 bolts and the hood is off. Done it myself too.

As for 84 cross fire cars? Not sure why you'd want to toss the efi? Does it not work? Basically double TBI. About five sensors for input, and electronic control over timing, spark, and fuel. Pretty simple.

Trackmouse
Trackmouse SuperDork
3/14/17 11:29 p.m.

Well I posted that prior to digging and searching. I thought the low power output was the crossfire Efi's fault, and under the assumption that it was typical 80's GM crap. I like Efi. I understand it way better than carbs.

BrokenYugo
BrokenYugo MegaDork
3/15/17 1:39 a.m.
MrChaos wrote: buy one and throw an ls in it

Allegedly more difficult than one would assume, something about most of the LS accessory drive stuff not fitting unless you're willing to lose PS and AC.

wheels777
wheels777 SuperDork
3/15/17 4:38 a.m.

We recently picked up a 1996 6 speed coupe. Wiring was messed with by a previous owner. We are looking for accessory drive with out the AC compressor.

NickD
NickD SuperDork
3/15/17 5:22 a.m.
vwcorvette wrote: As for 84 cross fire cars? Not sure why you'd want to toss the efi? Does it not work? Basically double TBI. About five sensors for input, and electronic control over timing, spark, and fuel. Pretty simple.

The Crossfire system was nicknamed Ceasefire or Misfire Injection. It never worked right from day one. The biggest problem that I've seen with C4 'Vettes through my work is that quite a few parts are becoming non-existent. EGR solenoids? Discontinued and reproduced by no one that we could find. Window seals? Same deal, and with the age of these cars they are always wasted. The C4 is too old to have solid parts support, but too new/too unloved to have classic support.

petegossett
petegossett UltimaDork
3/15/17 5:54 a.m.

In reply to NickD:

Window seals are definitely available...not particularly cheap, but that's generally consistent with most C4 body/interior/trim parts. I think it's about $200 for the inner/outer door window seals for both sides. I know the hatch seal is also available, and I think it was around $150.

In reply to Trackmouse:

The C4 really improved with each version, so determine what you want to do with the car first and go from there. A running/driving C4 that isn't a complete basket-case is usually in the $3000-$5500 range. LT1 cars are generally more, and often priced just below a C5. Mechanically they're generally pretty cheap, so if you're concerned about appearance/comfort/amenities buy the one with the nicest and most functioning interior you can find.

They're prone to electrical gremlins. This is because their fuel injection system and interior electronics were both relatively complex for the time, combined with a mostly fiberglass structure that limits the grounding points.

The good news is there were almost as many C4 Vettes produced as there were Miatas, so the online support for them is well documented. In many ways I tend to think of them as the American Miata - once you start examining the chassis/suspension you really see how purpose-built they were, and the Z51 cars in particular were really intended for competition. Yes, they're bigger, heavier, and faster than a Miata - but the way the chassis responds, how feels balanced and easy to manage at the limit - is very similar between the two.

Knurled
Knurled MegaDork
3/15/17 6:00 a.m.
Trackmouse wrote: Nah, I'm sick of engine swaps. I wanna build what's there. I'm reading it's the "slowest" corvette ever.

The late 70s models would beg to differ! And the original 6 cylinder, Powerglide-only 'Vette looks on at the little kids...

NickD
NickD SuperDork
3/15/17 8:04 a.m.

In reply to petegossett:

I know at the time the door seals weren't available. Maybe that changed. I know that door switches were near impossible to find last summer for a guy. Lots of weird little stuff on them seems to be unobtanium.

Joe Gearin
Joe Gearin Associate Publisher
3/15/17 9:07 a.m.

82-- Last of the C3 Corvettes-- Limited edition (hatchback) model. Silver leather interior--- Very disco-tastic! 200hp

83-- No Corvette, as GM didn't have their act together with the C4 yet.

84-- Cross Fire injection, very stiff (harsh) suspension tuning designed to post the highest skidpad figure--- but nasty in the real world. Very squeaky structure. Digital dash prone to problems. 205hp

85-- Much improved TPI arrives. More power, better drivability. Suspension is toned down a bit for better "real world" use. Still lots of squeaks and rattles. 230hp

88 Aluminum heads/ roller lifters--- 245hp

92-- LT1, "round nose", revised interior--- 300hp

96--- LT4 --- 330hp

They continuously improved the C4 throughout it's life-span. Unless you are caught up in having a "first-year" car, I'd buy the newest-- best condition car you can find. The 86 and newer cars are easy to tell from the older cars, as they had the high-mounted-rear-brakelight.

C4's have hit rock bottom, price wise. I see decent ones regularly for sub $5K. I prefer the sharp styling of the late 80's models, before they switched to the "rounded" nose. Mechanically and body-structure wise.....they got better and better until the release of the C5.

Oh... .and although Corvettes weren't real powerful in the mid 70's--- mid 80's, they were still some of the fastest cars on the market. Yes, times were that bleak. Keep in mind that a 1981 Ferrari 308GTSi took 8 seconds to get to 60mph. The Corvette was actually a bit quicker. They didn't have much hp, but they always had torque. Even the slowest (non C1) Corvettes would hit 130mph. That was fast in the 70s.

penultimeta
penultimeta Reader
3/15/17 9:41 a.m.

I've been playing this game in my head a lot lately too. While a early c4 is 3-4K in drivable project condition, a later lt1 c4 is only two to three grand more than that. Very hard to justify the price difference of an early car to me.

pointofdeparture
pointofdeparture PowerDork
3/15/17 10:02 a.m.

In reply to Joe Gearin:

Revised interior actually came in '90. If I ever acquire a C4 it will be a 1990 because that is the only year you could get the old body with the new interior.

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