Learn me B13 Sentra SE-Rs

OK, it's not exactly the Saab I posted about before. :) I'm looking at a 91 Sentra SE-R tomorrow. I hadn't considered the option before I found it on CL, but a fun, peppy FWD with an LSD is quite tempting as a "practical" car. I've read about GRM's project car, but I wouldn't go that far with it. The Miata is for autocross, and the SE-R would be a daily driver, primarily in winter, and possibly occasional rallycrosser.

I know about the 5th gear popout issue. What exactly causes that? As in, how would I reproduce it on a test drive if the car has the problem? He says the car is a little rusty, but I've patched up Hondas in worse shape (unless the issues are way worse than he's saying). Needs some rear brake work, but I hear that's pretty common, too, and I can handle that. Anything else I should look for?

To test 5th gear pop-out, get up to highway speeds like 50 mph in 5th, floor the throttle, then drop the throttle. If it doesn't jump out by doing that then it's probably find. The original LSD would be toast at this point if it's not been replaced already.

Check struts for leaks and bumpstops for being shredded up. The stock suspension basically uses the bumpstop as a second spring, the suspension travel is so short on these cars.

NX2000 front brakes are a common upgrade. You can fit early 90s Maxima rear brakes, too.

I love my 91 SE-R. People give me funny looks when I mention that I am going to be taking my sentra to the track this summer. They were very ahead of their time and upgrades are for the most part very cheap. It is amazing how cheap these cars are. They win the bang for the buck hands down.

Here are two very helpful threads:

http://www.sr20forum.com/driveline-transmission/170794-b13-b14-b15-suspension-information.html

http://www.sr20forum.com/classic-se-r/3031-muffler-question.html

You'll want to check for rust around the rocker panels and door hinges. As mentioned, the LSD will be shot by now, as well. Check the condition of the oil and the level, SE-Rs don't take a lot of oil, so it's important that there's plenty in there. Also with a lower capacity, you want to make sure you change the oil frequently. Check the oil pan for any dents, if it's dented there's a good chance the oil pickup has been damaged. The SR-20 is a great motor, and with a CAI and a less restrictive exhaust (header, high-flow cat, catback) you can realize some pretty solid gains. Ironically, the motor is known for its ability to rev, but a lesser-known fact it has great torque throughout the RPM range, and outstanding throttle response.

I'm not the one to talk you out of it, I love the B13 SE-Rs. My friend owns two, and I flew out to CA with him to pick up SCC's Project SE-R from Dave Coleman. We co-drove the car cross-country, and even in highly modded form, it was a joy to drive. Mind you, at the time it had no speedo, no radio, and half of the dash lights were out, but the car was incredible. It just ate up the mileage like nothing I've seen before, and was a blast to drive. The seats were excellent, and that's a huge compliment considering we ended the trip with a 29 hour thrash from somewhere in Oklahoma to back to Connecticut.

I also attended the SR-20 Convention down in GA last year and co-drove the car on the track. It really was perfect, handling, braking, etc. there really were no weaknesses. To be fair, this isn't your garden variety SE-R, but the car has some really good DNA to improve upon.

I've kicked around the idea of getting one for a while, and it wouldn't take much to push me into one. The two major forums you'll want to read are: http://www.sr20forum.com/

http://www.sr20-forum.com/ (the Dash)

In addition MotoIQ offers a lot of excellent Nissan content: http://www.motoiq.com/

Where the hell do you guys find cheap SE-Rs? The cheapest one that i've seen in a year was over $4k, and it had the 5th gear popout issue. And some moron paid that much for it.

I found my cheap SE-R on craigslist but they're on sr20forum pretty commonly too.

If I hadn't convinced myself to stick with the two cars I have for a while I'd have picked this one up by now: http://columbus.craigslist.org/cto/1624212701.html (summary of link: track-day ready rust free B13 with nismo diff and JWT goodies for $2500)

cghstang wrote: I found my cheap SE-R on craigslist but they're on sr20forum pretty commonly too. If I hadn't convinced myself to stick with the two cars I have for a while I'd have picked this one up by now: http://columbus.craigslist.org/cto/1624212701.html (summary of link: track-day ready rust free B13 with nismo diff and JWT goodies for $2500)

That is a steal if I have ever seen one!

That's a great deal, especially considering you can't buy the NISMO diff anymore...

The suspension is probably worth at least a grand alone...

They can have a few funky little electrical problems, but nothing really big. Camber is not adjustable, so you'd have to slot the holes or use camber plates if you're going to compete seriously, but they are great cars (except for the 5th gear problem). The viscous LSD is OK, but not nearly as good as a mechanical unit. Way back when I had mine, it would definately work better at the end of an autocross run than at the beginning (as the fluid heated up), but still wasn't really great. Wonderful engine, well-balanced handling, good mileage, comfortable, all-around great car.

Just got back from checking it out. If I had access to my bank on Sunday, I'd be giving him cash for it now. Let's face it, it's a 19 year old car and its condition reflects that. There is a little rust, but most of it has been fixed, and what little is left is on the driver's front fender, not the rocker panel itself. Driver's door hinges are loose, but hopefully I can find hinges from a passenger door to replace them (just like GRM's project car). Paint needs help but isn't horrible. Interior is in good shape except the sun visors. Needs 2 front tires but I have a couple in the garage that are a perfect fit. Motor is full of oil and runs great. It's definitely easy to drive sedately around town at low RPMs. It's also easy to rev it up and indulge myself at higher speeds.

If nothing else, I now fully grok why people appreciate and love these cars so much. If I can align the stars properly, I may spend some quality time with one myself...

How is the suspension different between the SE-R and "normal" B13? I'm assuming it's just different dampers and spring rates?

SE-R has front and rear sway bars, too.

http://www.gspec.com/c-29-1991-1994.aspx

Talk to Greg at G-Spec. You can buy new door hinges for not that much $

ReverendDexter wrote: How is the suspension different between the SE-R and "normal" B13? I'm assuming it's just different dampers and spring rates?

Honestly, it's the SR20 that makes the SE-R worth the bump over a base model.

The suspension and VLSD definitely help, but most people end up going with some kind of coil-over for the suspension.

There's the door hinges, and a fan control resistor, which the car also needs. Thanks!

And now I've brought home a car to go with those items:

Lousy camera phone pic, but you get the idea.

Awesooome. Making me want one.

You need any help with that thing let me know. Over 7 years, I think I did pretty much everything you can do to one. If there's anything wrong with the rear bumper, I have a brand new one taking up space in my basement. I wish I could magically turn it into an E36 rear bumper :). I also have a sunroof wind deflector if you have any use for it.

ccrelan wrote: SE-R has front and rear sway bars, too. http://www.gspec.com/c-29-1991-1994.aspx Talk to Greg at G-Spec. You can buy new door hinges for not that much $

Is that Greg Vogel who used to be at Mossy way back when? If it's the same guy I'll second the recommendation.

Josh, the bumper's fine but I'd give that deflector a try. I liked the one my 320i had, definitely noticed a difference. Thanks for the offer - for now it's just a bunch of little stuff (trunk lid gasket, driver's door hinges, interior fan resistor pack, tighten the throttle cable, general tune-up, getting it registered and inspected... )

dj06482 wrote: ..I flew out to CA with him to pick up SCC's Project SE-R from Dave Coleman.

You lucky bunch of...

It ain't the trunk lid gasket, that water's coming in through the taillights. I sealed the top of mine up with clear silicone, but it might work even better to take the lights off and make a gasket around the mounting surface.

Yep what Josh said....Pull back the trunk carpet around the tail lights then take a pitcher of water and run a stream down the channel you can watch where it comes in around the tail lights.Easiest cure is to run a thin bead of clear silicone and no more leaks.

I kick my self in the ass every day for getting rid of mine.I saw it driving down the high way a couple weeks ago and got all teary eyed.

Hmm... Like Sentra, like Miata. The Miata needed tail light gaskets to fix a water leak when I got it. :) I'll check that out - thanks for the tip!

SR20DEs respond extremely well to timing advance and ECU hoonery - A well modded ECU (SR20.net and G20.net are good places to look) will make a very healthy amount of grunt and still get you good overall fuel economy. My 99 G20 has that engine, so Ive been doing quite a bit of research. Youre lucky in that your intake cam has longer duration, which the SR20 loves. If youre really wanting to mod, an adjustable cam gear on the intake cam will allow more overlap, which is another SR20 favorite. Opening up the breathing and keeping the exhaust good and hot on the way out makes a big fat difference too.