In reply to CaptainSpaulding:
It has been about 2 years since the build began, so I hope my memory is still accurate, but I believe that I used the Ford Racing conversion. I have always changed the MAF when I changed the Injector size, so I used a 24# MAF with 24# injectors. I am now using 30# injectors and a 30# MAF. What MAF should I use for the 30# injectors with the Ford Racing kit?
The EGR spacer has been removed. The TB is bolted directly to the upper intake manifold. The BARO is under the floor board in the area of the stock Miata computer. It was deletes by the tuner.
If I should be 35 psi at idle, I am not that far off at 28. Or is 7 psi too far off?
The baro was deleted by the tuner? Thats new to me. I always thought that the eec4 needed the baro even if you custom tuned the eec with something like diablosport software.
hmm I am out of ideas. Sorry dude. What ever it is it sounds like a simple oops or something wrong with the tune.
I would call the tuner and ask him what ecu is in the car if you dont remeber and ask if they changed anything to get rid of the silly cobra junk in the ecu. I am not sure what meter to use with the cobra computer and larger than 24lb squirters. I have always just used A9l or a9p computers and a 40$ maf harness on my SD to MAf conversions.
Sorry i cant be more help. Let me think about it over a few drinks when I get off of work.
It is possible that it was the EGR that was deleted, like I said it has bee a while. It had a check engine light until after the tune. I want to take it back and have it retuned for the new components, but like I said before, it really never idled well before or after the previous tune.
It also has some issues that I think are related. When I let up on the gas to shift,the engine actually surges before it slowly comes down. It can cause some problems when I shift under heavy acceleration.
That sounds like a BARO/MAP issue.
The last CMC car that I built started life as a 4 cyl car and I had idle and part throttle tip in issues after the 5.0 swap. I used the SD MAP and just unplugged the vacuum line. Turns out that the MAP wont work as a BARO unlike every one on the interweb said it would.
Swapped in a correct V8 maf BARO and that fixed all of the little running issues the car had.
Now that is interesting! The BARO from the original speed density setup is what is still plugged in. Are you saying that I might need one from a Mass Air car?
I just did a little reading. on MAP vs BAP.
I definitely used the MAP from the speed density system. It looks like I should be running a BAP from a MAF system! I don't know if this will solve the problem, but it is something that has been a constant among all of the iterations that I have gone through.
I installed the new BAP sensor, while I am not sure that it is the "Magic Bullet" it seems to be running better. I haven't had the chance to reset the idle properly, but it is idling much better at the stock fuel pressure. I have confidence that it will be much easier to live with until I can have it Dyno tuned.
Captain, I owe you a beer! I never would have thought to revisit the BAP!
