In reply to NermalSnert (Forum Supporter) :
I saw a dyno test (sometime in the past 20 years) where they tested that on some stock late 60s, early 70s cars.
It actually did improve to end a VERY slight amount!
'course, you can get a dyno result to read just about anything you want it to!
In reply to NermalSnert (Forum Supporter) :
But the Q-jet secondaries sounded better even if there was no performance gain
rslifkin said:Downshifting to reduce brake wear isn't inherently bad. It's only going to cause meaningful extra wear if it's done ham-fistedly (poor rev matching, etc.). Heck, even some autos can be rev matched on a manual downshift with a little practice (some just get confused by the throttle blip though). Do it right and you should hardly be able to feel it engage in the lower gear (auto or manual).
The Aisin-Warner transmissions in both Volvos that I've had would let you blip to rev match a downshift.
I wonder how many people who think "downshifting = bad" ever drove cars with four wheel drum brakes. Aside from overheating easily, drum brakes have the lovely characteristic of being fairly nonlinear in application, dependent on humidity or speed. In short, sometimes they'd just lock up. Using more engine braking is a good way of ensuring anti lock brakes...
K&N air filter for everything. I have nothing against them but not the best air filter for every car.
Pete. (l33t FS) said:rslifkin said:Downshifting to reduce brake wear isn't inherently bad. It's only going to cause meaningful extra wear if it's done ham-fistedly (poor rev matching, etc.). Heck, even some autos can be rev matched on a manual downshift with a little practice (some just get confused by the throttle blip though). Do it right and you should hardly be able to feel it engage in the lower gear (auto or manual).
The Aisin-Warner transmissions in both Volvos that I've had would let you blip to rev match a downshift.
I wonder how many people who think "downshifting = bad" ever drove cars with four wheel drum brakes. Aside from overheating easily, drum brakes have the lovely characteristic of being fairly nonlinear in application, dependent on humidity or speed. In short, sometimes they'd just lock up. Using more engine braking is a good way of ensuring anti lock brakes...
The problem isn't just the brakes. On 1200 Beetles this was a great way to eventually break the crankshaft.
It's one thing to use lower gears on downgrades but another entirely to aggressively use the gearbox to slow the car. That's not good for the mechanical bits.
In reply to Tom1200 :
Correct. But as mentioned, the advice was very good, in the us, back when the BIG made a robust trans, but poor brakes.
it's not bad advice. Just not universally good!
Kinda like most advice!!!
03Panther said:In reply to NermalSnert (Forum Supporter) :
I saw a dyno test (sometime in the past 20 years) where they tested that on some stock late 60s, early 70s cars.
It actually did improve to end a VERY slight amount!'course, you can get a dyno result to read just about anything you want it to!
We once had a Cobra replica on our dyno pick up 40 hp when we removed the pancake air filter. No tricks, just a restrictive filter.
Also had a modified Integra Type R on our dyno get more and more powerful as we disconnected one magic tuner box after another. But it never made as much power as the owner felt it should, so he badmouthed us in the local community for not knowing how to run our dyno. Later he discovered someone had swapped in a non-ITR engine with something like an 8:1 compression ratio. But that's irrelevant :)
In reply to Keith Tanner :
Air cleaners are kind of part of the carburetor system. A good air cleaner base and lid will direct air smoothly into the venturies without disrupting airflow. A bad one can cause all sorts of mixture problems. Those K&N filter lids were some of the worst because they'd tangle up the airflow right where you don't want it to, and they could cause all sorts of calibration issues.
As a general rule, flat bases and flat lids weren't great, but the disadvantage lessened the taller the filter element could be. Or rather, the further from the top of the carb the lid could be.
Seeing a YT video where someone apparently convinced someone else that having your cylinder head ported by a pro is stupid, that you can accomplish the same by having the engine suck sand out of a bucket. Sounds totally made up, doesn't it, except it's an actual video. Junk car? Staged? Contrived? Maybe, but it didn't take any convincing to not do that.
03Panther said:But, we are way off topic
Just like "setting a battery on concrete ruins them." Was good advice when first said, but todays stuff is different!
I was at an autocross once- sitting on the concrete pavement when an older person told me that sitting on concrete gives you hemorrhoids. Didn't get them.
OjaiM5 said:K&N air filter for everything. I have nothing against them but not the best air filter for every car.
And they are bad when added to any engine with a heated element MAF sensor. The oil coats the wire throwing the calibration off really quickly.
In reply to alfadriver :
In my experience, the majority of people never oil their filters.
Yes, this is worse, as an unoiled cotton filter mostly just keeps birds and large rocks out and not much else.
Pete. (l33t FS) said:In reply to alfadriver :
In my experience, the majority of people never oil their filters.
Yes, this is worse, as an unoiled cotton filter mostly just keeps birds and large rocks out and not much else.
Presumably you are talking maf sensors and not hemorrhoids. Lol
Pete. (l33t FS) said:In reply to alfadriver :
In my experience, the majority of people never oil their filters.
Yes, this is worse, as an unoiled cotton filter mostly just keeps birds and large rocks out and not much else.
Presumably you are talking maf sensors and not hemorrhoids. Lol
In reply to alfadriver :
If you're oiling those cotton filters, you have bigger problems than hemorrhoids 
In reply to Pete. (l33t FS) :
If I recall those K&N filter lids were some of the best, especially if used on their own. If used in conjunction with a regular filter power decreases. And flipping the lid works. The more power you're making, the better it works.
Pete. (l33t FS) said:buzzboy said:Replace the thermostat in your racecar with a washer. I get where he was coming from and I thought about it and... glad I didn't.
Why's that?
I was not having troubles with my cooling system so he was trying to fix a problem I didn't have. The iron block diesel took plenty of time to warm up at all and I'm glad for the thermostat helping. Up until the day the radiator clogged we raced at full throttle for hours on end in 100°F temps with no issues.
Invest in Elio Motors.
In reply to buzzboy :
So, NOT a small block Chevy expected to buzz at 5500-8000 for ten-twenty minutes 
In reply to alfadriver :
I've heard that bout the 'roids, as well. No clue what the science of that says.
I do know the science of where the "car battery on concrete" comes from. But I'm OLD, and not even I, have ever seen a car battery with a wooden base!!!
But up to 20 years ago (and maybe even now) there were a lot of folks that "KNEW" it was true!
Ah yeah, K&N filters... The E38 had one in it when I bought it (basically the only non-stock thing on the whole car). One of the first things I did was to throw it in the trash, scrape the sticker off the airbox, and put in a stock replacement filter.
SKJSS (formerly Klayfish) said:Invest in Elio Motors.
Or at this point, Aptera...
rslifkin said:Ah yeah, K&N filters... The E38 had one in it when I bought it (basically the only non-stock thing on the whole car). One of the first things I did was to throw it in the trash, scrape the sticker off the airbox, and put in a stock replacement filter.
Exact same thing here. That's the POS top, far left.
In reply to Pete. (l33t FS) :
Matching rev to down shift in a 57,000 pound 10 speed fire tanker takes some practice and can be fun.
In reply to 68TR250 :
I was an old man of 27 before I got the chance to do that. But I learned to drive a 3 on the tree in a 64 falcon (non sync 1st/rev) , then later in a 76 F250 300 6cyl. The robust trans in the 250 was synchronized in all three, but was smoother to rev match, up or down, without the clutch. So the 10/13 speeds in semis, was not a hugh learning curve for me
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