In reply to 03Panther :
I think that the battery on concrete thing is from when batteries had some sort of asphalt type case, way back in the day and may have had some legitimacy then. Not so for the past several decades with plastic battery exteriors.
M2Pilot said:In reply to 03Panther :
I think that the battery on concrete thing is from when batteries had some sort of asphalt type case, way back in the day and may have had some legitimacy then. Not so for the past several decades with plastic battery exteriors.
That is correct, which is why I compared it to the the "gearbox to save brakes" as not wrong advice, just outdated.
Although your partially right... it was the wood base, not the sealant that was slightly related to asphalt.
Setting liquid acid car battery with a wooden battery on concrete, would leach the acid through the wood, much faster than sitting it on dirt or metal. "Killing" the battery faster. I'm old. Grew up around a LOT of stuff made long before I was born, and still have some of it. Even I have never seen a wood base car battery, in the wild!
03Panther said:In reply to 68TR250 :
I was an old man of 27 before I got the chance to do that. But I learned to drive a 3 on the tree in a 64 falcon (non sync 1st/rev) , then later in a 76 F250 300 6cyl. The robust trans in the 250 was synchronized in all three, but was smoother to rev match, up or down, without the clutch. So the 10/13 speeds in semis, was not a hugh learning curve for me
"So the 10/13 speeds in semis, was not a huge learning curve for me"
When the engine fan came on mid shift, it always threw me.
A friend had a job in college working at a quick-change oil place. They told him to fill the oil filters for the turbo cars but for non-turbo cars to put them on dry
In reply to jfryjfry :
I was told that too in the mid 90s. We basically were told to treat anything with a turbo as a delicate flower that could explode at any time from lack of oil.
Appleseed said:20W-50 in everything. Because its race oil. I'm glad I never followed that, even 30 years ago. The FR-S would be very, very unhappy.
As would my BMW Z4MC which requires 10/60 synthetic.
03Panther said:That is correct, which is why I compared it to the the "gearbox to save brakes" as not wrong advice, just outdated.
So I'm going to be pedantic and or ornery.
I've owned, driven and raced several cars with four wheel drum brakes. Making minor adjustments by "gearing down" and or staying in a lower gear using the gearbox to slow the car doesn't really save much wear and tear. It may well stave off brake fade for a longer period but that's something different.
Having had a complete system failure I can tell you gearing down doesn't do near as much to actual slow the car as people think.
My original post noted my idiot brother (he was a lovely guy but he was an idiot) used it to save brakes from wearing out. The advice is not relevant to passenger cars. Cars of old may have tolerated the treatment but it to my mind doesn't make it valid.
Tom1200 said:So I'm going to be pedantic and or ornery.
I've owned, driven and raced several cars with four wheel drum brakes. Making minor adjustments by "gearing down" and or staying in a lower gear using the gearbox to slow the car doesn't really save much wear and tear. It may well stave off brake fade for a longer period but that's something different.
Having had a complete system failure I can tell you gearing down doesn't do near as much to actual slow the car as people think.
My original post noted my idiot brother (he was a lovely guy but he was an idiot) used it to save brakes from wearing out. The advice is not relevant to passenger cars. Cars of old may have tolerated the treatment but it to my mind doesn't make it valid.
Effectiveness of it varies widely between cars. Some produce a significant amount of engine braking, others produce very little, especially if you don't rev it to the moon on downshifts.
In reply to rslifkin :
Totally understood.
My vintage motocross bike would fade the front brake in two laps; the routine was use the front brake for two laps, slide the bike the next two (2-strokes don't offer a whole lot of engine braking) and then use the front brake the last two laps.
When my Baja Bug had a master cylinder failure; the furious downshifting scrubbed all of 10mph before I swung off the road into the desert.
jfryjfry said:A friend had a job in college working at a quick-change oil place. They told him to fill the oil filters for the turbo cars but for non-turbo cars to put them on dry
Does adding oil to the filter benefit over time. I've been told to do it but is that a thing too?
I had a friend not take me up on trying a trick I told him about years ago. In the late '80s I had an old beater that burned enough oil to leave a visible smoke screen behind me when I gunned it. I was due for an inspection and knew it wouldn't pass,so I bought into the hype of the Slick 50 ads on TV at the time showing them running an engine empty of oil after a Slick 50 treatment. I ran Slick 50 in mine, drained all the oil, took it to the inspection station that passed it and gave me my sticker, then drove a mile or two down the road to refill it with oil. Sometimes ya gotta do what ya gotta do to get by. My friend elected not to duplicate my efforts on his car that also burned oil. But hey, mine passed, and his didn't.
Datsun240ZGuy said:jfryjfry said:A friend had a job in college working at a quick-change oil place. They told him to fill the oil filters for the turbo cars but for non-turbo cars to put them on dry
Does adding oil to the filter benefit over time. I've been told to do it but is that a thing too?
It's supposed to reduce the time it takes to pressurize the oil system since the pump has to fill the filter before it goes through the engine.
You'll need to log in to post.
