Ranger Clutch Bleeding

I have a '94 Ranger 2.3 w/ 5 spd, and I'm experiencing what I think is air in the hydraulic clutch circuit (Had to add fluid recently) Where are the bleed screws, couldn't see them at first glance.

Thanks...

^^^bump

The slave bleeder sticks out the side of the bellhousing. There isn't a bleeder on the master, you have to remove it and flip it upside down to get the air out.

There is a bleeder on the slave, and it was pretty accessible if I remember right. It was still the worst thing I ever bleed. After pushing quarts of fluid out the bleeder I still couldn't get it to feel right. We took it to my friend's shop and the pretty much had to stand it on the bumper to get the air out.

Bleeder on the slave.

A good trick is to disassemble the master. The master has a tendency to get air trapped in it which becomes nearly impossible to remove due to the angle the master sits at.

Taking the snap ring out and pulling the plunger should remove the air. It will overflow, then you can quickly reassemble the master.

After you purge the master, spend the next half hour bleeding the slave.

It's a pain in the ass, but I replaced 100% of the hydrologic clutch components this spring and mine feels good.

Here's the best way I've found to do it. It works every time.

Here's how I've done it on every hydraulic clutch I've ever messed with...

The cap usually has a small hole in the top of it, if it doesn't, make a very small hole in the center of the cap. 1/16"-ish. You understand small right?

Most of them also have a rubber diaphram or sock in there also. Remove that for the time being.

Fill reservoir completely full and have someone underneath ready to open bleeder screw on slave cyl.

Take an air gun attachment for your air compressor and apply VERY LIGHT pressure to the master cylinder reservoir through that small hole in the cap. Works best if you have a rubber tip on the air gun. By very light, I mean 5-8 lbs MAX. Wear safety glasses just in case, brake fluid doesn't feel great in your eyes.

Have your buddy open that bleed valve and you're goign to pressure flush the whole damn system. Watch that reservoir and top it off when it's getting about 1/4 full. I usually flush about 3-4 reservoirs full of fluid through there to make sure. Just keep barely squeezing that air gun trigger in short bursts to keep the pressure up. You'll know what I mean by too much when the cap blows off. Be careful and patient, this ain't a race. Do it right!

DO NOT RUN THE RESERVOIR EMPTY OR YOU'RE STARTING ALL OVER AGAIN!!!!

This has worked for every make and model hydraulic clutch system I've ever encountered.

Get a bigass syringe from tractor supply and push fluid up through the bleeder.

I agree with Kenny. Here's my general clutch bleeding recommendations:

1. Bleed it normally for 10 minutes.

2. If it's not fixed, pressure bleed it from the bottom up.

DONE!