Running with a little ust (not much) or No engine no rust at all?

So, I love me some 2nd gen Camaro/Firebird action (my fater had a 77 Camaro when I was a kid)

So a running car with just a little rust underneath (trunk area and a spot or two on the rear subframe) http://chambana.craigslist.org/cto/3454370085.html

Or a completely rust free car with out an engine and transmission? http://terrehaute.craigslist.org/cto/3384113153.html

I am leaning towards the camaro because then I wouldn't worry about everything being Authentic, I can just slap on whatever I wanted. the firebird I would want to keep original and authentic, that means finding a 4 speed for it...

Golly!

You know that neither is the answer. While it is ignored more often than not, it is well established wisdon that you should always buy the best car you can afford.

The correct answer is to continue the hunt until you find a complete car that needs nothing. Keep searching and $aving until the market and wallet match.

I'd choose the rust-free one. I can swap engines and transmissions, but I don't do body work. Depends on your skillset.

I want that 400. I had a 75 formula 400 and it was one of the coolest cars I have ever had. HOWEVER. I don't think that the FB is a real Formula. It is missing the cross bracing in the engine compartment that they came with and I don't see the holes where they should go. Also the 400 is a auto. This is both good and bad. Easier to drive for the most part but a 401 with all its torque and a standard is soooooooo much fun.

Changing the trunk floor is a simple job. As long as the rest of the body is clean particularly the uni body back by the B pillar I would go for that car.

I have doubts that the FB is a real formula and would offer them $2500-2800 for it and see where it goes.

NOHOME wrote: You know that neither is the answer. While it is ignored more often than not, it is well established wisdon that you should always buy the best car you can afford. The correct answer is to continue the hunt until you find a complete car that needs nothing. Keep searching and $aving until the market and wallet match.

Boring!

Always, always, always go for the rust-free car.

I'd go with the Formula, especially for that price. Just something about the orange one just doesn't give me confidence to buy. Maybe it is the crappy orange paint job, the passenger door and rocker not meeting up right, looks like the interior is missing, or it is the typical hodgepodge of stickers... I dunno.

The Formula is complete and running. If it truly is pinhole rust, you could either put in a new trunk panel or just strip, prep, and epoxy prime the panel closed.

Normally I'd say go with the rust free car. But sometimes rust free just means the seller isn't charging you for any rust...

A Firebird is cooler than a Camaro, and a Formula is cooler than a base Firebird. The Firebird is complete, Camaro was a race car. If the Firebird has only pinhole rust in the trunk I'd go for it. The Camaro might have the same and just hasn't been identified.

Best bet, go look at the Firebird first. Confirm it's as good as it looks in pics. If not, then go look at the Camaro.

Normally it's a no-brainer and I'd say go for the rust-free one.

But that firebird is way cooler than the 'maro. If the rust isn't awful, I'd offer something lower than he wants and see what happens.

Otherwise I might wait out for another car to pop up.

Rob_Mopar wrote: ...But sometimes rust free just means the seller isn't charging you for any rust...

HAHAHAHA, Awesome!

Rust free every time. Just come up here and help me remove the differential from my 1999 Miata and you'll soon appreciate a rust free car.

They're both savers, perhaps the FB somewhat more so.

For Reference, this is what I grew up with.

Honestly I like the idea of a running car. And if it isn't a real Formula then that is better, I don't have to worry about keeping it authentic.

Anyone know any other ways to check if it is a real formula 400?

thanks,

Go with the no-engine car.

It gives you complete freedom to put in whatever engine you'd like.

Chevy ZZ502?

GMPP LS E-rod?

Olds 425 with a 455 crank?

Go right ahead!

The first two photos in this album is of the Camaro. The rest are of the firebird. I know there will be some rust on either of the cars just due to their age.

http://s371.photobucket.com/albums/oo152/43577/cf/

Rust free car, always. Well, unless you are already planning to put it on a rotisserie for grinding / seam welding. In that case rust is just helping you make access holes.

This was mine, a 71 RS, circa 1985. Wish I had it back right now.

buy both, swap motor into rust free one, profit?

buy rust free car

buy rusted out POS truck or fullsize car with 350/th350 and swap in rust free camaro

scrap pos

profit

Ranger50 wrote: I'd go with the Formula, especially for that price. Just something about the orange one just doesn't give me confidence to buy. Maybe it is the crappy orange paint job, the passenger door and rocker not meeting up right, looks like the interior is missing, or it is the typical hodgepodge of stickers... I dunno. The Formula is complete and running. If it truly is pinhole rust, you could either put in a new trunk panel or just strip, prep, and epoxy prime the panel closed.

This. Body filler hides nicely under paint, especially crappy paint.

Confirming a real Formula is easy, the VIN will say 2U87 with the U indicating Formula.

That being said, the Formula is pretty decent for a midwest car from a rust point of view. The rust in the passenger side rear frame rail and the rust under the windshield seem to be the worst parts, so if it doesn't scare you go for it. Those early Formula's with the P51 inspired scoops are going up in value.

EricM wrote: For Reference, this is what I grew up with. Honestly I like the idea of a running car. And if it isn't a real Formula then that is better, I don't have to worry about keeping it authentic. Anyone know any other ways to check if it is a real formula 400? thanks,

I'm sorry about your dads face. I can see how that would ruin a childhood.

Nice Formula. Could be a good car to learn welding on.

Can't really tell from the photos how bad the Firebird might be (or how solid the Camaro is) but rust free or not that Camaro looks to be well butchered. You might spend more time and money undoing the hack work on it than you would on rust repair of the Pontiac.

I've never bought a car with as little rust as that Firebird. Both the sammy and 'rolla, which had more rust, are practically rust-free now. If it isn't heavy rot that requires new metal to be welded in you can easily fix it yourself.

Looking back at those pics, the Firebird is still the better buy. The framerail looks like a bad drain or something. The dash corners are from a leaking windshield.