So this is what a thousand bucks will get you nowdays.

It's a 2001 525i, is throwing about 8 CEL codes, ABS pump runs constantly if you plug it in, power steering reservoir is shot and has no power steering. But it does run..barely..with lots of misfires, has three pedals, the interior is very nice also.

So I can't decide which way to go with this one. I feel it's too good to just part out, but at the same time BMW parts are expensive and it may not be worth the money to get it into saleable shape.

Anyone here have experience with these cars and can give me some direction to go in? I'll list the CEL codes once I get home and have the list in front of me.

The hood latch as it is now..

The worst part of the interior

Nice. For a grand you I would think.fixed up you have a 5-6 k car. Thats about the going rate around here for decent 5 series cars of that vintage

Ooh, is that an MFG boat? I grew up on one of those. Had a 65hp Johnson on it.

Oh yeah, the car. Um...I got nothin'.

LSx swap that thing ASAP.

Is that the hood release cable?

I would give you 1500 for it now. I would love me some 3 pedal E39

that's a good looking E39!!

How close are you to a PullAPart?? E39s are now showing up there and a ripe for the picking.

There two in the yard close to me. I can grab some stuff off of it if you want. Things like the PS reservoir and ABS pump have been used in multiple generations and across several models.

Post up CELs as well . . .

the filter for the power Steering Fluid is built into the reservoir. You can replace it with a brand new one from Pelican Parts for 20 bucks (plus shipping) complete with cap. At that price it is not worth looking for a used one.

This is where BMWs suffer from the "break my wallet" syndrome. People just assume that parts are uber expensive and try to make do or utilize half assed fixes..

I haven't found BMW parts prices to be that bad, except for the few times that I had to get something from the dealer.

There are many places to get BMW parts, even OE parts, on-line for fair prices. Even NAPA can get some of the common wear and service parts.

That's a good score for a grand. I would try to sort out what's really wrong with it and see if it can be fixed.

The bmw and porsche parts pricing is a bit of a joke. Just shop carfuly and they are similar to honda or toyota. There are places that charge uber money and advertise a lot so many owners of these cars just assume that is the going rate for those.

Shop the web and you will be suprised. Amazon, rockauto, pelican, AutohausAZ are all places to start. You may be suprised at prices at the local autoparts place. Sometimes they are tge best.

Almost guaranteed that at least a few of the codes are vacuum leaks, probably from a bad CCV. Replace that entire system (valve, four hoses, distribution piece, and updated dipstick guide tube) along with the intake pipes and you'll very likely have a car that runs reasonably well. The O2 sensors are probably shot - you can get away with just replacing the pre-cat ones, but be sure to use OEM.

There are probably a bunch of worn suspension parts as well (judging by the PO's "fixes," I'm guessing they weren't exactly obsessive about preventive maintenance).

Hood release cable makes me think its been used, a lot. For $1000, I think you got a good deal and definitely worth trying to fix rather than part. Mileage is key, but that could be a $5k car.

LSx swap is always an option.

Psteav just snapped up a similar ride (e39 6 cyl manual) for a bit more but still not too far off challenge money. There are some really nice deals out there on these, if you can find ones that aren't completely ragged out.

Junkyard seems like a great source for some of those parts. My GS had a bad hood release cable when I got it, the owner futzed with things and even put a couple small dents in the hood messing around with it. 15 minutes at the junkyard and $5 later I had the cable. It took an hour or so to install but it worked perfectly.

ABS pump would be a good junkyard part, too. Long lived, non-consumables that are expensive = perfect junkyard sourced parts.

$20 p/s reservoir = order new.

Are the pixels shot?

Part out the interior, then LeMons!

nicksta43 wrote: Ooh, is that an MFG boat? I grew up on one of those. Had a 65hp Johnson on it. Oh yeah, the car. Um...I got nothin'.

Good eye! Yes it's a '68 or so. It is a whole other story.. perhaps I should post about it and my quest to see if the dream of a $1000 boat can become a reality.

The drivetrain on that is basically 3 series. It won't be too expensive to fix overall I would guess.

That, car has a good body and interior. Do a compression test. The only reason that you should part out that car, in my opinion, is if the compression is low, or it busts a head gasket soon. As long as you don't expect to get it in perfect shape for $400-$500 with 8 codes, it is a fair to a good deal.

In reply to t25torx:

I believe dads was a 67 but I'm not sure. He ran that thing every day for six years. That deep v hull rode so much better than the w hulled boat he replaced it with. Leaving the dock one day the engine exploded sending the engine cover straight in the air on fire. It landed in the rear seat setting the interior on fire. He got it put out but the cost to replace the engine and interior was more than what it was worth. Man I miss that boat, spent every day of summer vacation fishing on it. So yeah, I'm in for a boat thread

02Pilot wrote: Almost guaranteed that at least a few of the codes are vacuum leaks, probably from a bad CCV. Replace that entire system (valve, four hoses, distribution piece, and updated dipstick guide tube) along with the intake pipes and you'll very likely have a car that runs reasonably well. The O2 sensors are probably shot - you can get away with just replacing the pre-cat ones, but be sure to use OEM. There are probably a bunch of worn suspension parts as well (judging by the PO's "fixes," I'm guessing they weren't exactly obsessive about preventive maintenance).

You are more than likely correct. I did some searching on googles for the CEL codes last night and most of the issues I found were related to vacuum leaks, or MAF issues. I need to get this Celica sold and then I can move this one into the garage and start removing all the plastic covers to see what is deteriorated and broke.

Here's one thing I did see that would probably not be good for the car, this was coming off the intake elbow boot.

Yep, that feeds the idle control valve. They always break there. The MAF isn't as much of an issue as the internet makes it out to be; it's usually just undiagnosed vacuum leaks.

In reply to t25torx:

That elbow has been broken for a long time. It will throw a code with only a small tear. that should be good for a couple of codes.

I remember in my 318ti I had a tear in the elbow after the MAF. It would idle just fine and run at speed perfectly.. but the minute you tried to accelerate, it would fall on it's face as the tear would open as the engine rocked to one side and it would just go completely lean and all but stall.

In reply to nicksta43: I had a 75 Evinrude on mine. Ran great! But then while I was on my 2nd Vietnam tour my draft-dodger brother had a buddy steal the motor off it. I think they got $150 for it to buy drugs. After depreciation and deductible on my theft insurance, I replaced it with a new one for only $650 or so.

I still haven't forgiven him totally.

A friend of mine just picked up a '98 540i 6 speed for $950! It was a total gamble, since it was at an auction as a donated vehicle, but after he bought it we jumped it and there's nothing really wrong with it. It was a one owner vehicle that belonged to a doctor in St. Louis.