In reply to Curtis73 (Forum Supporter) :
Curtis,
I really, really appreciate all of the advice. Here is the exact vessel in question: https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/894105707738614
In reply to Curtis73 (Forum Supporter) :
Curtis,
I really, really appreciate all of the advice. Here is the exact vessel in question: https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/894105707738614
In reply to Javelin (Forum Supporter) :
It looks like a decent boat. I'd try to get it for a grand.
I think I'd also pull the motor entirely and redo it out of the boat. Working on boat motors in place really sucks, might as well hang from the rafters like a bat to do it.
KyAllroad (Jeremy) (Forum Supporter) said:In reply to Javelin (Forum Supporter) :
It looks like a decent boat. I'd try to get it for a grand.
I think I'd also pull the motor entirely and redo it out of the boat. Working on boat motors in place really sucks, might as well hang from the rafters like a bat to do it.
You should see how they cram diesels into sailboats.
Is it a saltwater run boat or a fresh water? The reason frenchy has no issues is he runs fresh water exclusively. If rot doesn't kill the hull, it will last forever.
Salt is another story and that looks like a saltwater rig. Saltwater starts destroying a I/O engine from the first time it goes in the water. With meticulous maintenance and flushing you can get a lot of years out of them, but at some point the salt wins. There aren't any saltwater run 28 year old Sea Rays anywhere near me unless they have closed cooling systems to keep the saltwater out of the engines and manifolds.
With water in the oil, there is a chance the engine block is rusted out. If so, then the manifolds and risers probably are as well. Not a deal breaker, but parts can add up fairly quickly. A set of common MerCruiser manifolds and risers will cost around $700. They are a maintenance item on a saltwater cooled engine. Running in saltwater, I replaced mine every 5-6 years because when they fail, they frequently take out the engine by dumping water in the cylinders.
The lower units are pretty durable. As long as there isn't water in the gear oil, your shouldn't have any issues. If you do, I have a couple of spares I'll probably never use. Curtis covered the rubber parts in the lower unit, they can be a bit of a pain but no worse than most car repairs. I would put a lower unit water pump in it just cause. They are cheap and fairly easy to change.
While the mechanics are fairly easy to replace, rotten wood is not. It's not super expensive unless you use epoxy, but it is a nasty job. Grinding fiberglass is a lot like taking a bath in itching powder. Tyvek suits and tape can save you from a lot of it, but not all. BTDT. Twice. If you want to give it a try, this guy has some great videos on it. https://www.youtube.com/c/boatworkstoday
The last boat I bought, I went over the hull with a find tooth comb because I really don't want to do any major fiberglass repairs. A metal weight can tell you a lot about what is going on below the gel coat. Any weight will work, socket, hammer, even pliers. You don't have to hit it hard, just tap it. Go over the entire transom. Anything below the floor and around the outdrive should sound very solid. I would also tap the engine mounts.
This video is the transom in the JetBoat. I'm tapping on it with a lug adapter. The core was rotted out of the transom when I bought it. Since it is no longer required to hold the engine I didn't fix it. It sounds hollow and soft. If the transom in the Sea Ray you are looking at sounds like this, don't buy it. Replacing transoms is a JOB.
This is the transom of the Shamrock I just bought. There is little to no rot in the transom and it sounds solid.
The side of the boat isn't going to sound the same until you get down to the floor and bottom of the hull. So the middle of the side will sound a hollow.
You said the floor at the rear seats was soft in the boat you are considering. Soft spots around the engine make me nervous. Doubly true on a I/O because the stringer, floor and engine beds are frequently tied together or one piece. If the floor is going, the stringer and engine beds may not be far behind. Rot is like rust, covering it won't stop it or even slow it down. Yes they can be rebuilt. It's not a fun job.
And after saying all of that, buy a boat. Everyone should own one at least once in their lives. Your kids will love it and it's a really great family activity.
Just understand there is a fair amount of maintenance that goes with them. Doubly true if you run it in a corrosive atmosphere. Coastal boating is the most fun, but it's also hard on the equipment.
I would like to add, the Columbia River looks like an awesome place to do some boating. I'm kind of jealous.
Looks like the saltwater line is probably 10 to 20 miles west of you so that boat may not have seen a lot of saltwater. If they will let you, pull one of the coolant hoses off the thermostat housing and see how much rust is in it. That will be a good indicator as to how rusty the block and manifolds are.
And after spending entirely too long studying the Columbia River and its tributaries I can say you need to find a jet boat.
Awesome area to explore. You could run for miles up the Cowlitz River alone. That would be so cool.
My wife and I are thinking of buying a boat. This year is going to be just some renting to figure out what we want to buy. Then next year game on. I'm hoping for something that someone wants out of because they found an end of the year special at a dealer.
Im in minnesota so In a 15 minute radius we have at least 10 boat ramps on good sized lakes.
im using boatsetter.com to check out some boats.
Toyman01 (Moderately Supportive Dude) said:And after spending entirely too long studying the Columbia River and its tributaries I can say you need to find a jet boat.
Awesome area to explore. You could run for miles up the Cowlitz River alone. That would be so cool.
Yes, a jet boat would be awesome! I have a 12' inflatable boat that I want to put in in Castle Rock and just float down stream all the way to Kelso just to try it. It can take a 1.5 HP trolling motor, but I haven't found any for cheap enough.
My retirement plan is a motor yacht in the Puget Sound.
Javelin (Forum Supporter) said:nderwater said:Javelin (Forum Supporter) said:I own an IMS bearing Porsche, a oil consuming B8 A4, and an EcoBoost Flex. I'm already a glutton for cheap stuff with terrible flaws that will bankrupt me.
All of those can explode and catch fire, but at least they won't sink, lol.
We began our boating adventures three years ago with mixed results--one boat is mostly ok, the other a leaky money pit. Both have cost us a lot more than we assumed going in.
My advice is: rent/borrow a boat the few times a year you want to go boating. It's less convenient but you'll come out ahead in the long run, believe me. If you feel you *have* to get your own boat, get something as small and simple as will reasonably meet your needs. Complexity gets expensive very quick.
I'm retired from the Coast Guard and I was stationed up here, so I know the waterways and I have felt the siren song of the sea to return to the water. Also, we have four kids ages 5 to 8 and taking them tubing and to secluded islands to swim in this post-COVID world seem like a good idea. I should mention that I literally live on a river, it's like a 10 minute walk from the front door. It connects to the Columbia.
Okay, more details. You need a boat!
In reply to Floating Doc (Forum Supporter) :
I do, just not this one. Thinking about it made me realize that I need something ready for the water, not another major project.
Javelin (Forum Supporter) said:In reply to Curtis73 (Forum Supporter) :
Curtis,
I really, really appreciate all of the advice. Here is the exact vessel in question: https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/894105707738614
Looks like a 351W? If you were to buy it, you could just grab a 351 longblock from an F250 and drop it into place. Looks like you have decided against it which is probably a good idea. Looks like one of those that might be fine, or it could be a project.
If you were closer, I'd sell you my 91 Ebbtide. It is 100% water-ready, but that's a heck of a long ride to get a $3000 boat.
Let me poke around and see what I find. I'll link to some that I would at least spend the time inspecting.
In reply to Curtis73 (Forum Supporter) :
Oh yes please!
Fueled by Caffeine said:My wife and I are thinking of buying a boat. This year is going to be just some renting to figure out what we want to buy. Then next year game on. I'm hoping for something that someone wants out of because they found an end of the year special at a dealer.
Im in minnesota so In a 15 minute radius we have at least 10 boat ramps on good sized lakes.
im using boatsetter.com to check out some boats.
The really great buys aren't listed. Banks have them. They are repos. Or surrendered units. Divorce, illness, lost job, moving, loss of spouse, etc.
They aren't at the bank either. Typically in the back of the marina. But the Marina will try to sell boats they have a listing on.
If you're willing to work, try boneyard boats. Lots of beautiful old wooden cruisers. Often free.
I know the original boat in question is off the table but aren't the marine fords a reverse-rotation? The grooves on the crank for the seal are directional.
My background in boating: I grew up using Grandpas 1993 Sea Ray bowrider (with an outboard), his 1960's aluminium (with an outboard), and our 1985 Lund Aluminium (with an outboard).
I graduated into using my FIL's 1998 Rinker (IO Mercruiser), dads 2016 Grady White (outboard), and a few other Aluminium fishing boats. Lund is still around.
The people who say that boating is expensive generally fit into one or more of the following:
Do not interpret this as saying that a boat is a good financial investment. It isn't, in the same way that a racecar isn't. But you absolutely do not need to be wealthy to do it.
I would probably have different boating goals than you, Javelin, but looking at that river system I would would want a flat-bottomed aluminium with an outboard, maybe even a jet-outboard. That would get me far up some of those tributaries. If you stay on the main rivers, you could get away with almost anything, but I still recommend an outboad. Brand doesn't matter all that much, but I would personally avoid Bayliner and Maxxum.
Remember, there is nothing on a boat that can't be patched and repaired. At some point, it just becomes cheaper to scrap it.
Oh... One other thing. On trailering. When I was a kid, it always seemed like a big deal and a PITA. By the time I was 18, I was pretty confident and competent with it. Nowadays, if I'm by myself or with my brothers, ignoring any time I take getting the boat setup/organized for fishing, it takes about 3 minutes to pull the boat out of the garage and get it hooked up, 10 minutes to drive to the ramp, and 2-5 minutes to launch it, depending on if we have to pay at the ramp and/or wait for people. 15 minutes between deciding "lets go fishing" and getting on the water.
If dad is involved, I generally add 5-10 minutes onto that.
Everything I know about boats I learned from Mac and Dennis
In reply to frenchyd :
Thanks for the info. I won't start looking just yet.. I figure I'll find better deals in post Labor day..
Boatsetter is like Airbnb for boats with Geico insurance to cover everyone... Saves like $100-200 versus the marina rentals.. also nicer boats..
In reply to Fueled by Caffeine :
Dang that's nice but the bidding is already twice my current budget 
My advice is to find out which boats have no wood in the construction and then find one that's in good shape.
I'm partial to outboard motors, myself. There is a fuzzy line in boats around 2000-ish where the designs were for lighter two strokes, so hanging a heavier 4 stroke on the back takes some math.
Appleseed said:If it floats, berks, or flies, it's cheaper to rent than buy.
QFT!!!
In reply to Fueled by Caffeine :
You are right after Labor Day. Actually best in October while the loan holder is looking at storage fees and another years depreciation.
Myself I have this giant soft spot for old wooden boats. Some good tools. An old timer to show you how, and a warm dry place to work can turn free into fabulous. Sometimes that boat sitting on the bottom of the lake only needs to be pulled out , dried out, and a working bulge pump installed.
My uncle bought a newish (then) 50 footer the owner had pulled the drain plugs on and let sink. ( Yes insurance fraud ) he didn't even pay 3 cents on the dollar for it since he bought it in December under 12 inches of ice. They chainsawed a hole in the ice and sent a diver down to fill it with air bags. While it was filling with air they cut a path to the marina in the ice and pulled it out dried it in the shed and used it for many years. Then sold it at a massive profit.
A retired Navy buddy bought a Schooner that had been sunk during Katrina. He had the cosmetic damage fixed in Mexico and cruised the South Pacific for a few years before settling in New Zealand.
In reply to mtn (Forum Supporter) :
Where are you that you need to pay to launch? Is that common? What does it cost? Are there cheaper/free options available ?
In reply to frenchyd :
Your story reminds me of a couple sailboats sunk in a local channel. Wonder what it would take to resurrect them and bring them back up. Satellite view should pull them up
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