former520 wrote: ...The spec the service writer referred to was 50* below outside air. As he told me, the 'official test procedure' was to close all of the vents but one, use a 6" deep probe and place it as close to the core as possible in the dash with the recirc on and air set to speed 1...
So he was basically testing it in an almost maximum cooling situation. I am surprised he didn't want to put a big fan in front of the car and run the engine at 3000 rpm!
My Allroad had a solar panel sunroof that ran the blower on sunny/warm days keeping the interior the same temp as outside at all times. Given how hot car interiors get on a really hot sunny day it made a world of difference in how fast the AC could cool down everything when I started driving. Neat feature.
Even when my '05 Mazda was brand new the A/C barely cooled the car. I took it into the dealer and they said it was as it should be. If I stopped at a red light the car would start to heat up. My conclusion was that the factory system simply was inadequate to keep up with the Florida heat. Someone else in this thread said nearly the same thing.
You may only get 60F outlet if the ambient temp is 90 and high humidity. Running the system on recirculate with the window open will help cool things down quicker.
I have a black car. sigh.
Getting one of those windshield sun visor deals really helped with my car. Just be sure to not put the dark color side out.
Yeah, avoid black cars. Something else I have heard: dry air does not transfer heat as well as humid air. So living in the desert Southwest could have something to do with it. Stop and go traffic will do it as well. I have seen several manufacturers whose test procedure included running the engine at 2000 RPM. Of course at a stop it's half that.
Do you routinely haul a dog or cat? Pet hair will clog hell out of an AC evaporator if there's no cabin filter. Seen that more than once. Might be worth sticking a borescope in the HVAC housing for a look see.
FWIW, my '03 Xterra, on a 95 degree day with high humidity, takes about 4 miles to really get comfortable, that's on high speed and recirc. I don't worry with thermometers, don't need the psychological interference. I don't care if the dash air is 55 deg as long as it's comfortable inside.
This particular test wouldn't copy/paste properly; if you take, for instance, the top value under each heading it corresponds with the top value under all the others.
The work area ambient temperature and the evaporator temperature must be above 18.3°C (65°F) prior to conducting the A/C Performance Test.
Check for Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) using a scan tool. If no DTCs are found in the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) or the Totally Integrated Power Module (TIPM), go to Step #2. If any DTCs are found, repair as required, then proceed to Step #2.
Connect a tachometer and a manifold gauge set or an A/C recycling/charging station.
Operate the heating-A/C system under the following conditions. Engine at idle and operating temperature Doors or windows open Transaxle in Park or Neutral with parking brake set (depending on application) A/C-heater controls set to Recirculation mode (max-A/C), full cool, panel mode, high blower and A/C on.
Insert a thermometer in the driver side center panel air outlet and operate the A/C system until the thermometer temperature stabilizes.
NOTE:
This procedure requires the technician to know what the temperature and relative humidity is at the time of the test. The temperature must be combined with the relative humidity to calculate the apparent ambient temperature ("feels like" temperature), when the temperatures are above 21° C (70° F). Use the current ambient temperature and the relative humidity in your location. This information can be obtained from multiple sources, such as the internet or local news media.
Compare the air temperature at the center panel outlet and the A/C system pressures to the A/C Performance Temperature and Pressure chart. A/C PERFORMANCE TEMPERATURE AND PRESSURE
Ambient Air Temperature (Apparent)
21° C (70° F)
27° C (80° F)
32° C (90° F)
38° C (100° F)
43° C (110° F)
Air Temperature at Center Panel Outlet
6 -15° C (42 - 59° F)
7 -18° C (45 - 64° F)
9 - 21° C (48 - 69° F)
11 - 22° C (52 - 72° F)
13 - 24° C (56 - 75° F)
A/C High Side Pressure
1034 - 1896 kPa (150 - 275 psi)
1207 - 2068 kPa (175 - 300 psi)
1379 - 2241 kPa (200 - 325 psi)
1551 - 2413 kPa (225 - 350 psi)
1724 - 2241 kPa (250 - 375 psi)
A/C Low Side Pressure
214 - 365 kPa (31 - 53 psi)
248 - 407 kPa (36 - 59 psi)
283 - 476 kPa (41 - 69 psi)
317 - 483 kPa (46 - 70 psi)
359 - 496 kPa (52 - 72 psi)
If the air outlet temperature or the A/C system pressures are not within specifications, see the A/C System Diagnosis table.
Notice at 100 deg F the dash vent value should be between 52 and 72 deg, both are value #4.
I personally think if you can rig up some sort of mister instead of a sprayer you can get it to work better But there's only so much you can ask of the laws of physics.
you just need to get an old GM car- up until the mid 80's, they had the hottest heat in the winter and the coldest cold in the summer..
i never actually checked the temp, but during the short periods of time that it would hold a charge the AC in my 84 T Type would blow out insanely cold air on 95 degree days, even after i "converted" it to 134A by merely changing the valve fittings and putting a couple of cans of 134A from Wal Mart in it. then after a couple of days it would leak out and the AC was just a fond memory once again.. i should fix that...
In reply to novaderrik:
Most GMs (and Fords for that matter) well into the 90s had good AC, my 99 Prizm has delphi AC that before the compressor body corroded and got leaky, would turn that little black car into a refrigerator.
Just as a point of reference: Building HVAC systems usually deliver 55-58°F air for cooling spaces. So if you expect less than that, you're probably expecting too much.
Some other rules of thumb:
With my black '13 Fiesta, after driving for awhile I find that the AC is too cold. I ether turn it off for a while or I simply turn the heat on enough to mix. After sitting in the sun for a while, the cool down takes awhile.
A lot depends on the position of the sun with that huge windshield.
I had a brand new '10 black 3 for about a year. I loved everything about the car, except the a/c flat out sucked. The air didn't blow very cold, and the evaporator would freeze up with regularity. Then you'd get the fun of running the fan without the a/c on to thaw it back out before starting the whole process again.
I'd contact Mazda customer assistance and let them know you've had it at the dealer multiple times and have lost faith in them and see where they take it from there. However, it may just be as good as it is going to be.
I'm curious what a pressure gauge set would show.
dinger wrote: I had a brand new '10 black 3 for about a year. I loved everything about the car, except the a/c flat out sucked. The air didn't blow very cold, and the evaporator would freeze up with regularity. Then you'd get the fun of running the fan without the a/c on to thaw it back out before starting the whole process again. I'd contact Mazda customer assistance and let them know you've had it at the dealer multiple times and have lost faith in them and see where they take it from there. However, it may just be as good as it is going to be.
Evap icing generally is due to either 1) low charge (just like a house system) or 2) it's a hot muggy day, the car is being driven at highway speeds, the blower is on low and it's in recirc mode. If the car has an evap temp sensor it's supposed to keep that from happening but I still see it occasionally.
novaderrik wrote: you just need to get an old GM car- up until the mid 80's, they had the hottest heat in the winter and the coldest cold in the summer..
The evaporators were so huge, cheap Mazda racers would get them from junkyards, weld AN fittings on them, and use them as oil coolers.
(Mazda rotary oil coolers are probably the most badass coolers ever made)
Has anyone dealt with r12? The ac in my all trac has never worked and I'm not sure if it is just low on coolant, or something else. Any ideas on troubleshooting?
Coolant looks cheap enough.
http://www.amazon.com/Enviro-Safe-R134a-R12-Replacement-Refrigerant/dp/B0081T3PP4
Tested my Previa today. Slightly overcast 90° day parked in the sun for two hours with the sunshade up. 121 degrees inside with 143 degree surface temp on the window sill that was in direct sunlight. I need to compare that windowsill temp to the temp of the sill of one of the rear side windows with factory tint.
Can we take just a moment to cast recognition on the one automotive component that American automakers have classically done well?
By chance, another Mazda dealer contacted her to buy her car late last week. For some reason 2.5 hatches are in demand according to the dealers. They took it in for another look and also deemed it is the best it can be, it just isn't great. It was nice that they were at least honest about it. They did install an updated ECU program that keeps the compressor going longer under deceleration. So, hopefully that helps.
Great AC is always in work trucks and any car that is destined to be a cop car. Nothing sits around idling more with the AC on full blast than those. The old Lexus GS300 I have does a pretty outstanding job as well. I work outside sales and I am in the car all day.
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