Learn Me: Buying Used Bikes

If you decide to go with a panaracer pasela, go with the tour guard version. It had some extra protection for not that much weight penalty.

I run 38s on my cross bike on the road and don't think I'd ever go back to anything smaller than a 32. I love the feeling of riding on the road and then being able to take a detour in the woods on a whim

+1 for Paselas. I have them on several of my bikes; they do (or did, as of last year at least) make them in 26" and 27" sizes.

alfadriver wrote: But. If two people are looking for just cruising bikes- think about what kind of bike you really want. And old school road bike can be great, but it may not be that casual cruising bike that a couple would both want. I know my wife would not want one, and I'm WAY faster when I have this bike than my old Mt bike- which was already faster than her.

It was not a struggle to hold back to the same pace as her, although it was not my preferred pace. I just wasn't particularly exerting myself to feel like I was getting exercise. I may keep this for my own desires and supplement with a mountain bike that will make me work harder. Two used bikes will still be much cheaper than one new one.

She also has her seat waaaay to low to really pedal effectively, and she puts the arch of her feet on the pedals. She doesn't particularly like taking advice or coaching from me.

How about a vintage tandem bike?

Cousin_Eddie wrote: I am infatuated with old steel road bikes. After going through more than a handful of late model whiz-bang bikes, the first time I ever rode a vintage bike, I was sold and have never once wanted to go back. Lugged steel frame road bikes have a ride all of their own. It's not placebo either. They don't buzz or vibrate. Even harsh bumps just go thump, thump and the bike absorbs the shock without passing it on to the rider. Very important for long rides as it keeps the fatigue at bay. My main rider started out of a 125 dollar 1988 Centurion Ironman Dave Scott. I kept the downtube shifting but updated from 7 speeds to 10 speeds. It's all bolt in. You get the advantage of good gearing for all conditions but still retain the old school. A little powdercoat, some fresh decals, and some various vintage Shimano stuff from the Bay of E and Bob's your uncle.

I really like what you did with the Centurion, but if you're concerned with ride, I'd recommend you drop the gatorskins. I, myself, have an old full-carbon Trek and compared to aluminum bikes I was happy with the ride/stiffness compromise of the frame on gatorskins. I also figured they were nearly puncture-proof. Then my front tire kicked up a razor on the side of a road which put a 2+ inch slash through a brand new gatorskin and left me stranded despite having a bunch of flat repair stuff on the bike. I switched to GP4000's and I was blown away by how much better the ride was and I even picked up speed on identical tire pressures. I also ditched the flat repair stuff and just make sure I carry a phone with plenty of charge.

Dude, I totally second the GP4000s. I've tried all kinds of tires, but those are amazing. They roll like crazy, feel really smooth, and they're wearing like iron. I went from a 23mm tire up to a 25 AND lowered the pressure, and I picked up 2mph on the same steady state coasting downhill. I don't understand how they make the rolling resistance that much lower on a wider tire.

Those Dura Ace downtube shifters are super sexy. The whole bike is super sexy.

I'm on GP4000sII's this season, and so far, so good. I have thousands of miles on Grand Prix 4 Seasons and they're stellar, too. I think I had one puncture in 5000 miles. None in 600 miles this year (knock on wood).

At the moment, I have a 25 up front and a 23 out back. My China carbon rear wheel is a midge out of round and I have an aero frame with very tight clearance, so the 25 is a bit too close for comfort. New rear wheel is likely in the future--old one will go on the cross bike.