In reply to brandonsmash :
I don't know if brother suffers from this, but believe it or not some programs have completely separate instances for each language. So if there are ten languages and the program is 60mb then it's a 600mb install. Efficiency!
oh and for my rant: shingles! Ugh.
I got my boat registered hoping to get it on the water soon. Turns out a bird built a nest in the trailer so now I have to wait for the babies to move out.
In reply to dculberson :
If it's shingle the rash and not the roof kind, I found this stuff to be extremely helpful:
My rant:
Tendonitis/tennis elbow has returned. Seems like every 3-5 years I have a recurrence since first dealing with it in 20+ years ago.
I have 2 rants both about the local lumber yard:
First rant, minivans are great and I've used them for working construction. An extended Aerostar was in the arsenal for a long time because it could do a lot more than you'd think and be AWD.
But there is a limit to what they can do, so when you show up in your caravan to pick up 60 2x6 and the yard guys tell you that you can't fit that many inside your van, don't be a bitch to them.
Also don't wrap them up with electrical tape 3 at a time to put in your van. They are too long to do more than a few and using your child's car seat as a brace is dumb.
Also don't complain that you are " almost 15 feet away" because I'm parked grabbing 2x6 with my truck. Then don't move your car on the other side of me 2 inches off my bumper and glare at me while wrapping up your 2x6 with yellow tape like an idiot.
Second rant
If you work at a lumber yard, rebar is gonna be a thing that you do even though it's not lumber. Rebar comes wrapped in big bundles with thick rat wire. You will need some sort of tool to cut the rat wire to release the rebar. Yes you can break it with a claw hammer but you work at a hardware store, the excuse that " you ain't got none bolt cutters" is stupid, walk your happy ass into the store and tell them the yard needs some. It's happened before, it'll happen again.
But absolutely don't bring tin snips and try to whittle away at the rat wire while muttering how this is impossible. Ffs, if I hadn't had bolt cutters with me I don't know what the results would have been.
Also rebar is a springy, waving object that in this case weighed about 800 pounds together. The reason why I asked for the plastic wrap and a flag is so I can bundle the end all together and put a flag on it so it rides better and I don't get someone running into it. Showing up with a flag and a stapler isn't gonna go well no matter how you say that you can fold the flag and staple it up to hold it on steel. Get the berkeleying wrap that I said, no I don't care that it's your first day and you have a brilliant idea. It wasn't brilliant and I've been here for a half hour, I'm annoyed and stabby now.
I miss the lumber yard being owned by a small local company
My middlest has her road test scheduled for tomorrow morning. That's a rant in and of itself: I wanted to wait until she was feeling confident and then schedule, but my wife decided to "help". Anyway, she is doing very well. I am a fairly good instructor and she can follow the rules of the road, knows how to scan, can keep up with traffic, panic stop, keep a good following distance, and all the sorts of table stakes things that a new driver needs to know. There's just one area that we're struggling with: parallel parking.
I don't have a problem doing it. I can whip my GL into a spot without thinking about it. I've parallel parked a giant box truck in downtown Cincinnati. Hell, I've parallel parked from the passenger seat when the driver freaked out. But for some reason I cannot tell you how I do it. I might as well try to describe how to walk. It sounds like one of my Mom's recipes: pull up so you're in the right spot with the right spacing, then turn the wheel to the right and back up until you're turned enough, then go straight back the right amount, then turn the wheel to the left and bring it in. How much is the right amount? Hell, I don't know. More than not enough and less than too much.
I feel like I'm really failing her right now because I just can't figure out how to teach it. I have her watching a bunch of YouTube videos right now that I hope will help. I've also watched a bunch of them as well and I think it's helped me to understand how to articulate what I am doing, so we're going to go back out tonight and hopefully get her confidence back up. If she doesn't get her license tomorrow because I wasn't able to teach her how to do something that I find so easy, I am going to be really mad at myself.
In reply to wae :
I go with
1- pull along side the car in front of the open spot completely. Try to be ~2' away from the car and stop directly along side
Note: have your turn signal on at this point so the Brownie doesn't fail you!
2- start driving straight backwards, do not turn until your mirror is at the cars rear bumper
3- turn hard right while continuing backwards
4- straighten the wheel while continuing backwards
5 when the rear wheels are a couple feet from the curb turn hard left
6 pull forward parallel to the curb
that's the steps I go through in my head hope it helps
In reply to wae :
I don't have any real advice about parking, but it reminded me of 20 years ago. Teaching my oldest girl to drive a manual, telling her all this stuff, she couldn't get it, started to get frustrated. Went home, and I needed to go out for stuff- realized before I got out of the driveway I'd been teaching her way wrong, because who knows how you do automatic stuff? Back in the car, changed instructions, perfection almost immediately.
Here's how I learned:
1) Pull up next to car, back bumpers aligned, and signal.
2) Back up straight until your rear wheel is behind the other car's back bumper, then steer into the space as you move slowly back.
3) When your car reaches a 45d angle to the curb, straighten the wheel. Continue moving slowly back.
4) As your front wheel clears the car's back bumper, begin counter steering until car is straight in space. Back up close to car behind.
5) Straighten wheel and pull forward a little to center your car in the space.
Duke said:Here's how I learned:
1) Pull up next to car, back bumpers aligned, and signal.
2) Back up straight until your rear wheel is behind the other car's back bumper, then steer into the space as you move slowly back.
3) When your car reaches a 45d angle to the curb, straighten the wheel. Continue moving slowly back.
4) As your front wheel clears the car's back bumper, begin counter steering until car is straight in space. Back up close to car behind.
5) Straightened wheel and pull forward a little to center your car in the space.
This is the way.
I did a couple things that helped: I found a YouTube video which gave me some better vocabulary and then we did a park into the barrels that they use in a stop-motion process. I would tell her exactly what to do with the controls and each time I was going to have her change her inputs, she'd stop the car, find reference points, and get out and see where the car was at each step. By slowing it down that way, I was able to better understand what I was seeing and reacting to and I was able to articulate that better as well.
She passed this morning!
It's hot enough to melt the balls off a brass monkey.
That's all I got.
Last night I noticed that despite the home AC running, the house was warm and very little air was blowing out the ducts.
I found the evaporator froze up. *sigh* Turn off AC and let sit over night and thaw. And I mopped the floor this morning.
So late last week, we got a note on our door that our water is going to be turned off tomorrow to do some required maintenance. Fine, with enough time to prepare, we can deal with that.
We live on a pretty old street in our city, so most of our underground systems date back about 100 years or so. And with the variety of homes built on the street, I would be surprised that anything had been done in 100 years. So we all know our systems are old and weak, subject to a high probability of breaking when they work on it.
Today, they started pre-work, and broke the water main.
And we are all really freaking mad, because they told us the work was tomorrow, and we are all preparing today for tomorrow. Had they told us that work was going to start today with the planned outage tomorrow, we would have prepared earlier to not have water.
The water supervisor got mad at me that I was complaining they broke the water. At least two of my neighbors were in the shower when they broke it, we are doing laundry and filling buckets when it broke. Of course we are freaking mad!!!
Just freaking tell us that work is going to be done today! Heck, you are closing the road because of the pre-work. Could you not tell us the road would be blocked at least?!!?!?!!?!
In reply to alfadriver :
Had something similar with power lines a few weeks ago. Get notice that work starts tomorrow. Crew shows up the day before and blocks the whole street for "pre-work". Dude, you have a massive crane blocking my driveway and I got places to be. Yeah I'm pissed. Foreman tells me he didn't know about the job until that morning. Damn near called the cops to make them move enough trucks to let me out. Turns out they didn't have all the stuff they need so they leave. Then they show back up the next week unannounced, cut the power, block the street, and give us attitude for being pissed.
The best part? All the work was supposed to put a stop to the power outages we get when storms roll through. NOPE! I swear the power drops even more often now that they ran all the new lines. Bloody hell.
In reply to slefain :
We've had that, too. Even the tree service cutting tons of trees around the lines. And in the last 3 days, we've had 4 power outages. After the lines are clear of trees.
I'm not a big rules guy. Honestly, I'm a little bit of an anarchist at heart. I will frequently break rules just for the fun of it.
But life safety codes exist for a reason. They aren't just arbitrary rules someone made up because they could. They were written because people died due to E36 M3ty work done by dumb berkeleys like you.
I'm not sure who needs to hear this, but if you are in the door/security business and you add a magnetic lock to a door that is on an egress path, you MUST have at least 2 forms of release for that magnetic lock. Unless you are installing a delayed egress maglock, a request to exit sensor and a lighted pushbutton are REQUIRED. Not suggested, not just a good idea. REQUIRED.
I know you didn't add them so you could underbid the next guy, but that may be the stupidest reason to get the job I have ever come across. Is that $800 worth a life? Imagine being in a burning building and not being able to get out because of a locked door. Think about it. Have nightmares about it. Now think about your wife or child being in that situation.
When I come in behind you, not only am I going to make you look like an incompetent idiot, I'm going to call you one to your customer. Then I'm not only going to make all the money you made initially, I'm going to make a little more. Then I'm going to steal your customer, and they are going to be happy about it because I actually care about doing the job properly and covering not only my ass but theirs as well.
Keep it up ass hole. This town isn't big enough for you to get away with that for long. You'll be just like the last guy that went out of business due to a E36 M3 reputation. Cheap pricing will only go so far.
In reply to Toyman! :
GO GET 'EM TIGER! That is a BIG problem.
And to the guy who packed a set of RH jambs with a LH double egress header. You cost me right at $1500 this weekend due to your incompetence.
I hope you fall down the stairs at home this evening. Not enough to kill or even seriously injure you, but enough that you feel like someone has kicked your ass.
My reaction to breaking events at places I've been to in the middle east:
It really gives me pause to applying for a high paying, deploy only position with my company that I was recommended for.
You are an off-road group. You used to do National Forest rides every 3-4 months, but now all you are doing are pub meets and county park picnics.
I don't think those qualify as off-road.
My bank closed down pretty much all of the locations that had a human teller in the area. So now I have to make check deposits at the ATM. Except my local ATM has gotten REALLY particular about whether it accepts certain checks. Handwritten check? Fine. Next month nope. Printer checks from the same source? It takes one, but not the other. So now I have to trek to the last area branch that has humans (where I'll first be told I should have used the ATM outside) to deposit the rejected check.
In reply to slefain :
Does your bank allow you to deposit checks via your phone? That was a game changer for me!
Enchanter said:In reply to slefain :
Does your bank allow you to deposit checks via your phone? That was a game changer for me!
All the reviews I've found online for my bank's app complain about check hold times. Or that the check has to be flawlessly made out. I don't want to get stuck with a check that is in deposit limbo between the app and reality.
In reply to slefain :
Happy customers don't leave reviews. Our CU's app works flawlessly and is very fast. This from a luddite who never used them, but now that they are gone, misses pay phones and real newspapers.
You could always try it for yourself with a couple of test checks before you commit.
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