Affordable hub stands from Flyin' Miata

4x130 may be 914's, I'm not sure. I do know that its one of several patterns used on older VW's.

Keith Tanner wrote: You could get away with the gravel by using the steel plates under the stands, but the sloping part is a major difficulty! The car will seek the center of the earth. Good point, Woody. Ooo, and those of you who know Spec Miata racers, tell 'em about these.

yeah, I can only jackstand one end at a time ... the slope is just enough that if I tried to get the car on 4 stands, it'd end up falling off eventually

Err, Keith, I meant 5x114.3, sorry for the typo. The Lexii all use 5x114.3.

sobe_death wrote:

Keith Tanner wrote: Ball TRANSFER. I keep calling them transits, I don't know why.

I had a ton of those things from the cargo hold of an airliner and tried to make them work as car dollies. You need a really smooth surface for them to roll well, and a smooth concrete garage floor isn't it! Off topic, those Wilwood calipers have dust boots or no? Any drawbacks you've encountered if not?

The need for a smooth surface is why we include a steel plate for every stand. It's not in the above picture - it's not needed on the scales - but it's in this one.

As for the Wilwoods: short answer, no. I have not encountered any drawbacks, and there are thousands of Miatas running around with them. If you want to discuss further, we can take it to email or a different thread - let's try to keep this one on topic.

Keith Tanner wrote: Here's a question for the GRM collective: what patterns would you like to see on these? This is not a request to name the most obscure bolt pattern you can think of Seriously, for these to be useful for you, what do they need to fit? Also, if the hub diameter is larger than 67.1, how big is it?

Not that I can afford these, but I have a few suggestions. A 5x4.25" (5x114.3) and 5x4.5" dual-pattern would cover 99% of muscle cars. The center hole would have to be larger though for most of the older stuff, IIRC the center hubs in an AMC Model 20 are 2.83" (about 72mm). So, 75mm should get you into all of those markets.

I'd imagine a 5x130 would be very popular for the Porsche guys...

4x3.75" and 4x98mm

I can think of plenty of GM uses for a 5x4.75 and 5x5. So you could just slot and washer your way there from the Ford/Mopar 5x4.5 size...

Slots. Do a 4 slot pattern and a 5 slot pattern, using one slot that is common to both patterns. Minimum diameter of 98mm and max of 130mm and you've covered pretty much anything that isn't a truck.

Keith, on the "thrust angle gauge," how does that work? Are there instructions with it at all? I've done toe-and-go alignments myself a bunch of times but never measured the thrust angle so don't know if the car was straight with the wheels.

@Dave: Great idea! One bolt pattern to rule them all. Slots suck on wheels for safety reasons but on a hub stand they should be a-okay.

We'll be doing a full set of instructions, possibly even a veedeo. It'll be Miata-based, but the basics still apply. The thrust angle gauge is basically just a marker, you position it on the floor on the centerline of the car (measuring is required) and it has points that are at the same height as the toe bars as well as the same length.

Mark's working on designs.

DILYSI Dave wrote: Slots. Do a 4 slot pattern and a 5 slot pattern, using one slot that is common to both patterns. Minimum diameter of 95.25 and max of 130mm and you've covered pretty much anything that isn't a truck.

Fixed.

I would buy some. But the main car I would want them for would be the Spit.

Just in case anyone finds this interesting, here's a list of PCDs and stud specs.

http://www.ezaccessory.com/Thread_Size_and_Bolt_Pattern_Applicatoin_Guide_s/12.htm

I know I'm new here, but how about two patterns, 4 and 5 lug slots, and a "hub ring" arrangement to allow nearly limitless applications. The hub side of the plate would need to be machined to allow the ring to seat, and this would add some cost, but may allow more units to be sold.

Rings could be sold as upgrades.

Otherwise, 5 on 112 for MB?

When's the anticipated availability of these?

We're working on the more universal design. 4- and 5-slot plates with a fairly big center hub. No reason to go with hub rings, we're not spinning these at high speeds so having them mount via lugs will do just fine.

5x112 with a 14mm bolt or stud will be an option. We'll probably have four plates, 12 and 14mm with 4 slots and 12 and 14mm with 5 slots. I think it'll cover everything from 4x98 to 5x130 if memory serves.

The first batch of 10 Miata ones (4x100 and 5x114.3 12mm) is in production, I think we're 2-3 weeks out. The bases on those will be compatible with the future optional slotted plates.

Gotcha!

I thought about it, and as long as the tool is in the same plane as the hub face, it shouldn't matter if the plate is centered.

I'd like to suggest 4 x 95.25 for Triumph Spitfire/GT6/Lotus Europa/Elan.

This is a fantastic idea!

I am thinking if the HF jackstand was welded to the steel plate.. with a bit of grease.... Maybe still using just the greased up ceramic tiles underneath the plate instead of the Balls...

But buying a set sounds like the smartest plan.

turbo dodge junk around here... So... 5 on 100mm and 5 on 114.3

They're not up on the site yet, but the following combinations will be available:

• 4x95 to 4x114.3, 12mm studs
• 4x95 to 4x114.3, 14mm studs
• 5x100 to 5x130, 12mm studs
• 5x100 to 5x130, 14mm studs

For $395, you'll get a pair of hub stands with the bolt pattern of your choice, the thrust angle gauge and a set of steel plates. Extra hub plates will be $130/pair and can easily be swapped out.

I'll have the new versions on the FM site soon.

Have you given any thought as to how to make this thing double as a bumpsteer gauge?

I suppose you could remove the springs and support the chassis on a jack, the watch the change in toe relative to the thrust gauge as you move the chassis up and down. It would be tough to make it accurate.

I'd rather use the more traditional method of putting the chassis on jackstands and moving the suspension up and down, though. A bumpsteer gauge is really easy to make with a bolt, twos piece of wood, a piano hinge and a dial indicator.

Keith Tanner wrote: They're not up on the site yet, but the following combinations will be available: - 4x95 to 4x114.3, 12mm studs - 4x95 to 4x114.3, 14mm studs - 5x100 to 5x130, 12mm studs - 5x100 to 5x130, 14mm studs

I assume by combinations you mean either:

• 4x95 to 4x114.3, 12mm studs
• 5x100 to 5x130, 12mm studs

or

• 4x95 to 4x114.3, 14mm studs
• 5x100 to 5x130, 14mm studs ?

Very interested.

Ian F wrote:

Keith Tanner wrote: They're not up on the site yet, but the following combinations will be available: - 4x95 to 4x114.3, 12mm studs - 4x95 to 4x114.3, 14mm studs - 5x100 to 5x130, 12mm studs - 5x100 to 5x130, 14mm studs

I assume by combinations you mean either: - 4x95 to 4x114.3, 12mm studs - 5x100 to 5x130, 12mm studs or - 4x95 to 4x114.3, 14mm studs - 5x100 to 5x130, 14mm studs ? Very interested.

There will be four options for plates. One will cover all 4-bolt patterns from 4x95 to 4x114.3 using 12mm studs or bolts. One will cover all 4-bolt patterns from 4x95 to 4x114.3 using 14mm studs or bolts. One will cover all 5-bolt patterns from 5x100 to 5x130...you get the idea.

We did not combine 4- and 5-bolt patterns on the new designs. It can be done, but we were worried about strength so we decided to stick with just one.

Since each plate covers at least four common patterns, I figured that they count as combinations

Is there something holding the brakes applied? Or what keeps these things from slipping and rotating around the wheel bearing? I understand that they are planted firmly by the weight of the car, but someone has to get under the car to set the toe and will be tugging on tie rods and such. And those ball transfers do roll... I hate being a grouch about something that looks like a good idea. My GTi needs an alignment. My Jetta needs an alignment. And my Maxima too...

Typically, adjustments are made with the suspension unweighted.