As noted before, this engine is getting a crank trigger. This one was originally designed for small block Chevies as the slant six uses the same bolt pattern on its pulley.
So the next question is how I'll set up a bracket. Welding some angle iron to the timing cover might work, or possibly making a bracket secured to the oil pan rail, something in this general shape:
In reply to MadScientistMatt :
Is that a diyautotune wheel? I might be interested in using a similar wheel sometime.
Greg
slantsix said:In reply to MadScientistMatt :
Is that a diyautotune wheel? I might be interested in using a similar wheel sometime.
Greg
It is, but not the production ones. That trigger wheel is a prototype that was intended to be part of a kit that we never completed.
Hmm, Where can I get access to one of those prototype wheels?
Greg
Those triggers could be re-created if there's enough demand. But for the sensor bracket itself, I decided to just go with something that's easy to fab up now over something that would make for easy bolt on parts later - a simple piece of square tubing welded to the timing cover.
Using a magnetic triangle sideways lets me keep the tube parallel to the trigger.
Someone with decent welding skills should have no trouble with this one.
But since it's me doing the welding, I will need to fall back on the Welder's Invocation: "O mighty grinder and paint, make me look like I is the welder I ain't!"
At least I do not seem to have added any new holes to the timing cover. Next step is to drill a hole in the end for the sensor.
I love this build
Hi Matt message me if one of those trigger wheels could be made. I would be interested.
Greg
Drilled it for a threaded Hall effect sensor. Now the crank trigger is all done except paint.
Needed a little deburring...
...And I checked the gap with a feeler gauge.
What are you gapping the red senor at? I have to gap the stupid natural/ clear one at 0.002" to trigger without errors on ruster.. I have a red one ready to retrofit... just have not installed it yet.
Greg
0.040". I suspect on the older silver threaded sensors didn't have the sensor all the way down the tube.
The next step is to paint the bracket - I masked off the part of the pulley with timing marks.
And the trigger wheel. I didn't try to coat the edges too much as this can cause trouble with the sensor gap.
Now, time to get the head back on there.
Next step, get the rocker arms back on...
...and set the valve lash cold. I'm adding an extra 0.005" to be careful, and of course will set the final lash once the engine is up and running.
I have a silicone gasket from Real Gaskets of Tennessee for the valve cover.
Now, time for the water pump. But first, the pulley needs cleaning up. I think I'll paint it black.
And I might as well get the alternator bracket while I have the rattle can out.
Much better.
And wait... Doug Dutra's book notes that there's yet another part that could use some porting. Look where the water pump inlet flows in. I'm not sure porting it will change a lot, but I've already ported everything else that could reasonably ported, so why stop now?
Here it is somewhat cleaned up.
Water pump is now installed. They have two gaskets, which is a bit of a nuisance. Especially when you get the water pump bolted to the engine and find the second gasket lying on the floor. But it is now on. With two gaskets.
You're supposed to pack the oil pump with Vaseline to get it to start moving oil sooner (can't spin the oil pump with a drill on a slant six!). With this being a budget build, I substituted store brand petroleum jelly.
I believe that should be enough.
The pump cleaned up and installed on the block.
Normally there would be a distributor splash shield in that location as well. So I had a decision to make - how long will this engine run on a distributor? I decided the answer will be "Not very." Probably just for break in and a dyno test to see how it does against coil packs.
Matt, Im my most recent build, from last week, I did not prime / pack the pump at all.
Poured oil down the 2 oil filter ports on the pump until they were full.
Filled the oil filter half way before putting it on the engine.
Removed plugs and coil wire once engine Was in chassis, plumbed and wired.. Ran the starter for many seconds until I had pressure then fired it off.
It worked fine. You getting close on the build here.
Greg
That sounds workable too. Right now I'm wondering if I can do a bit more priming by putting a funnel on the point where the oil feeds the rocker arms and adding some of the oil through there before starting.
In reply to MadScientistMatt :
I see no reason why not.. that will probabnly be fussy to gravity feed the oil into such a small area. The mains are more important in my opinion.
Greg
slantsix said:In reply to MadScientistMatt :
I see no reason why not.. that will probabnly be fussy to gravity feed the oil into such a small area. The mains are more important in my opinion.
Greg
I'm hoping that would let the oil run down into the galley and from there to the mains.
This week's mostly been cleaning and painting things and getting them on the motor - the brackets (alternator, engine mounts, and the turbo support) and some of the exhaust parts. We'll see how VHT header paint holds up to this sort of use.
All that fiddly stuff takes a bit of time... brackets / pulleys and the like..
I am also interested on the header paint.. most of the time I had invested in those products i had unfavorable results.. of couse it could have been my bad prep work.
Greg
I figure the final results can't possibly be worse than the "before" pictures. :)
That header paint will disappear in short order.
Back when you could personally still buy the stuff I picked up a small can of Turbo-X coating.
It does OK but still doesn't last forever.
Next step is to reinstall the manifolds and thermostat water neck. Slant six manifolds need weird triangular washers in some rather hard to reach locations. So I used a reacher tool to get the washers on and a magnet to install the nuts.
One of the studs had somewhat damaged threads, although it looked OK. I finally had to weld a nut on the stud to get it out after the double-nut method and Vice Grips failed. This time, I managed to weld a nut on without liquefying the nut.
So, now I have the manifolds on and the engine pretty much ready to put back in the car.
But I'm not sure the car is ready to put the engine back into, with the engine compartment looking like this.
Looks like I should take a bit of time now to try some of the tips in this article...
Matt,
Good idea on the reacher/ grabber tool. I have used screwdrivers/ coat hangers or contorted my hands and fingers to get those on in previous builds.
Greg
This week's work was mostly getting things out of the way in the engine compartment and getting the transmisison out from under the car so I'll be able to roll it outside to pressure wash the engine compartment next week.
A little annoying that the older MSD box is hardwired in. It crossed my mind to drill the case for some circular connectors, but I decided it wasn't worth the trouble.
I'm not the greatest at paint and body work, but I know that rule #1 of good painting is good surface prep. And that is also rule #2 of good painting. So, with the help of my co-workers, we rolled the Dart outside for some serious cleaning. Here's two more pictures of the starting point, so the "after" pictures will actually look like I did something.
Then I sprayed the whole engine compartment with some Simple Green.
Now it's time to spray it with the pressure washer.
Wait, not with the hose tied into a bunch of knots, it isn't.
OK, now it's time to spray it with the pressure washer.
The car had been painted, probably in the '80s, with a color that I'd best describe as lemon juice fog. They did make some attempt to repaint the engine compartment in that color, but a lot of the respray came off with the pressure wash, leaving the original white paint under it.
Next step, do something about that rust...
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