First up today make the long puller into a LOOOONG puller. Weld is visible where it was required based on my available stock of 1" flat stock.
The internet has mentioned that the 5/6 gear is sometimes too loose on the main shaft and this can cause problems. This one was not loose.
Not one bit.
It was so unbelievably tight. I actually broke a tooth on the gear when my crescent slipped from holding the tripod of the puller and all of my force on the wrench slammed the jaw into the case. Berk.
What did eventually work was me blasting the puller with my impact driver while holding the tripod. It still took forever and I wasn't sure it would ever happen. But it did.
Damage:
also damaged but not by dissembling it is the pads on the 5/6 shift fork. Bits of the plastic are evident everywhere inside. 
with the removal of the 5/6 gear the case comes apart. All parts retained and only 1 roll pin fell into my drain pan of ATF. 
all the guts now pull out easily and look like this: 
and: 
my bench now looks like this: 
time for some dinner; it is my nieces birthday dinner tonight.
SkinnyG
UltraDork
12/10/19 6:52 p.m.
Could you de-burr the chip, reassemble, and hope for the best?
...reassemble, and hope for the best?
*i* would
That's what is up! This is why I love this place.
Yes, I am pretty sure that it will work perfectly and if not it isn't a complete tear down to replace it.
took my external bits to the parts washer at the bike shop to prep for paint. Clean case:
I’m not sure this is what happened, but I will often put a hose clamp around the jaws to help keep them in place.
Have you pulled these apart before or are you using a guide or just using your grey matter (there’s something inside your heeeaaadd)
In reply to jfryjfry :
Thanks for the hose clamp idea; it isn't what got me this time but I will definitely use that in the future. I am a long time auto project enthusiast and first time manual trans rebuilder (technically a disassembler at this point). So far I have just looked at some videos; I'm for sure open to any tips, tricks etc.
I wish I had insight on the tranny disassembly! It always makes me happy to see someone tackle projects like this without tons of experience so I can see what I might be in for.
Extra high performance paint job:
SkinnyG
UltraDork
12/12/19 7:32 p.m.
Woah!
Where's the build thread on that vehicle right there!? You can't peek-a-boo that and just leave me!!
In reply to SkinnyG :
Oh snap! Yeah, I almost cropped it out to avoid the explanation. I am officially unemployed for the winter but I sometimes go help a friend in his late 60s who suffers from sensory nerve deterioration in his hands on his projects. The Studebaker is one. I would have probably done a thread but it isn't mine and I haven't been in it from the start. It is a 4link rear and Camaro front clip 350/350 pretty classic hot rod setup. Here are some pictures: 
My friend is shipping it to Texas within the week to the new owner who is originally from Montana as well.
SkinnyG
UltraDork
12/13/19 9:34 a.m.
Ahhhhhhhh.......
Thank you thank you thank you.
Today I used the press to replace synchros and carbon rings as well as the bearings of the input and main shaft. 
I didn't get many pictures but it really doesn't look that different now than it did before.
I am not changing bearings in the counter shaft or counter shaft extension because there was never any indication of problems and I can leave alone the shim stack and just focus on the input preload. I used a dial indicator to check the input shaft play with shims removed, countershaft absent and it is right around .035. I have a .038 shim and hopefully when I install this setup with the counter shaft it will be just right.... and if not I will make a trip to the transmission shop tomorrow.
Coming back together. It took a few tries to get the support pin for the primary shift rod to go in properly. I also added a thin washer under the shift detent spring for extra preload. Another set of hands would have been helpful to guide the main case on, but I managed after a couple tries.
Best part: no extra pieces! The disassembly pictures were crucial for me. Stoked for upcoming function test.
Tortillas, for more than just eating:
Yes, I mean Si, I stuffed my pilot bearing with this wheat product and hammered a rod into the opening and it actually works great! Plus clean up is a snap and if you get hungry there is a snack available from the extra portion.
Bueno.
I changed the pilot bearing just to be on the safe side I hope that I will not be in here for a while to come.
Love this tool; made torque on the pressure plate a breeze.
everything else went mostly smoothly but hot dang! That transmission is not light. 
The driveshaft is in, clutch bled, battery connected. I am concerned about how much play is present at the slip joint I have another one and plan to swap them before I go for a drive. But it is late and I'm beat. At least it is back on wheels for the moment. 
Count me among those who saw this thread early on, and may not have revisited too frequently, but caught up this morning, and thoroughly enjoyed all the truck action contained herein. Carry on, good Sir.
First off I took off the too loose slip joint and replaced it with the one from the RX8 because it was just sitting there out of the car anyway (8.8 diff swap). 
it is difficult to see but the splines start to twist about 3/4 of the way down. So... that won't do, the slip yoke gets stuck too far out to install the drive shaft. I should have put it in the trans BEFORE assembling it onto the driveshaft. Lived and learnt.
Plan C meant a run out to the hot rod shop to grab slip yoke #3 from the bucket of slip yokes. I did test fit it to the trans and all is well. All except for the zerk fitting that I unscrewed that wouldn't screw back in again. I tried filing the threads to get it happy but to no avail. When/if I ever need to grease this u-joint I can easily drill out the alloy rivet that is now a plug. 
Driveline is in and not flopping around like a hooked fish. Put the truck on the ground and WOW the rear end has a lot of play.
I will spare you the nausea from a video, but from this angle by bumping into the sidewall of the near tire I can see the other drum rock back and forth a crazy amount. Not good! Test drive confirmation: trans works! Shifting is nice! No bad sounds from the rebuild. But... the rear end appears to be the origin of the problems. Bad, bad clunky knocking when coasting which lessens/dissipates under braking. culprit found. Next step will be to take out this trash and put in something better.
I am too uneasy at the prospect of destroying my driveline and trans to drive this any more. I do not want a wheel to shoot out of the axle housing.
I want to be doing burnouts now.
You maybe even want me to do them. Sadly I must delay the gratification. But how sweet will the burnouts be when they finally come.
I got a Ford 9" today. It was $0.
it is a posi. I was super pumped.
The down side to this particular unit is the gears: 2.50!?!?! I may not actually use this after all. 
hmmmm..... should I chase a top speed record?
GoLucky said:
The down side to this particular unit is the gears: 2.50!?!?!
hmmmm..... should I chase a top speed record?
You can probably get good money for the gears from someone who does land speed racing - 2.50s aren't that common.
SkinnyG
UltraDork
1/1/20 11:51 p.m.
Have you measured the width? The 9" is likely wider than your 12-bolt.
next the input shaft is dropped through the hole thusly. And forward cover is removed with only slight fiddling required.
