The Earl Truck: An Even Sloppier LS-Swapped Colorado

In reply to OneSickGNX :

Just seeing this but I'm in if you still have! 

Actually working on this when I get my 18 minutes of free time each week. Bought some rx8 seats a while back and have been pondering how to mount em. So I bought some Corbeau fixed brackets and going to bolt the rx8 sliders directly to them.

Step 1 is tearing down the seat. Then step 1 is taking off all the brackets from the rx8 seats. Still on step 1. Next step, also step 1 will be to bolt them down. 

Just saw your reply. Yeah we can do that I down in SC till memorial day, So maybe the weekend after if you're interested.

This took way longer than I wanted but drivers side RX8 seat is installed. Love the way the seat feels and the driver position is perfect.

Here's a nice comparison of old and new:

I have a very similar truck.  Mine is a 2006 Colorado single cab, gen IV LS 5.7 (5.3 bored) with an AR5.  The clutch in mine is stiff as hell.  Just curious if your clutch is stiff as well.

In reply to KYOUNG15 :

Welcome.  Nice truck and yes.  Very stiff.  It's also an on/off switch.  I almost always squeal the tires when I pull out of my driveway.  Like I said before, I'm tempted to go auto but I've got other problems. My truck still runs like crap.  I need to pay someone to actually tune mine.  It starts and sounds healthy, but it won't take throttle and dies when I pull up to a stop sign.  I've hardly driven it honestly and it's still not road legal. 

Scotty Con Queso said:

In reply to KYOUNG15 :

Welcome.  Nice truck and yes.  Very stiff.  It's also an on/off switch.  I almost always squeal the tires when I pull out of my driveway.  Like I said before, I'm tempted to go auto but I've got other problems. My truck still runs like crap.  I need to pay someone to actually tune mine.  It starts and sounds healthy, but it won't take throttle and dies when I pull up to a stop sign.  I've hardly driven it honestly and it's still not road legal. 

I can confirm that the stuff clutch, I'm running a LQ4 with an AR5 and it's pretty much an on/off switch with about a 1/2" of travel. I bumped the idle up to 900-1,000 rpm and it helped some.

Scotty, do you have a WB O2 in that? It also might be pulling a bunch of timing. Mine didn't want to idle while moving in neutral. I'll have to look at my tuning logs to see what I had to disable, though might not be your issue since your running Holley.

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In reply to OneSickGNX :

Im waiting on a log or an overlap in schedules to remote into Scotty's laptop. From what I've seen in the tune file and videos sent via fb messenger the base field map needs a little tuning but the tps rate of change maps are adding way too much fuel and causing a big stumble 

Any updates Scotty? still considering an auto swap? IF so, my vote is definitely stock ECU with 4L80e for OD driveability

Thanks for the bump. No big updates.  I live a very busy life these days with 3 active kids in sports and a busy job.  I think I've been more focused on being outside and doing summer hobbies like fishing and going for runs since the weather is nice.  When the doom and gloom of late fall and winter set it, I'll be back to it a little more. 

Ryan got the tune majorly updated and the truck is running a lot better when I drive it around the neighborhood and idleing in my driveway.  The biggest problem is the truck isn't actually on the road because I need to get it registered as a classic vehicle in PA.  Hoping to stop by the tag office on my lunch break to do that tomorrow.  Then, I need to drive it some more and send logs to Ryan to get the tune dialed in even more.

I'm not really considering an auto swap anytime soon since I've hardly driven this thing.  But this winter I do want to rip out all of the wiring and exhaust to fix/cleanup the half-assery I did to get the truck running.  I'm about to buy an actual gas mig welder so I can do better fab work. 

In reply to Scotty Con Queso :

Glad you got some driveability improvements! FWIW i don't regret the money it took to get a legit MIG setup, even though it was much more expensive than I wanted it to be

Sounds like you need a clutch master with a smaller bore. This will make the same pressure at a lower input force, so the pedal won't be so stiff. It will also spread the clutch actuation over a longer range of pedal travel, making it easier to modulate.

Very nice! Still thinking of selling?

AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) said:

Sounds like you need a clutch master with a smaller bore. This will make the same pressure at a lower input force, so the pedal won't be so stiff. It will also spread the clutch actuation over a longer range of pedal travel, making it easier to modulate.

Adding on this. GM of this era really liked sticking overly strong return springs in the clutch pedal.  I just fixed this on the C6 Corvette pedal in my truck.

In reply to java230 :

Nah I want to keep it to further refine.