In reply to OneSickGNX :
Just seeing this but I'm in if you still have!
In reply to OneSickGNX :
Just seeing this but I'm in if you still have!
Actually working on this when I get my 18 minutes of free time each week. Bought some rx8 seats a while back and have been pondering how to mount em. So I bought some Corbeau fixed brackets and going to bolt the rx8 sliders directly to them.
Step 1 is tearing down the seat. Then step 1 is taking off all the brackets from the rx8 seats. Still on step 1. Next step, also step 1 will be to bolt them down.
Just saw your reply. Yeah we can do that I down in SC till memorial day, So maybe the weekend after if you're interested.
This took way longer than I wanted but drivers side RX8 seat is installed. Love the way the seat feels and the driver position is perfect.
Here's a nice comparison of old and new:
I have a very similar truck. Mine is a 2006 Colorado single cab, gen IV LS 5.7 (5.3 bored) with an AR5. The clutch in mine is stiff as hell. Just curious if your clutch is stiff as well.
In reply to KYOUNG15 :
Welcome. Nice truck and yes. Very stiff. It's also an on/off switch. I almost always squeal the tires when I pull out of my driveway. Like I said before, I'm tempted to go auto but I've got other problems. My truck still runs like crap. I need to pay someone to actually tune mine. It starts and sounds healthy, but it won't take throttle and dies when I pull up to a stop sign. I've hardly driven it honestly and it's still not road legal.
Scotty Con Queso said:In reply to KYOUNG15 :
Welcome. Nice truck and yes. Very stiff. It's also an on/off switch. I almost always squeal the tires when I pull out of my driveway. Like I said before, I'm tempted to go auto but I've got other problems. My truck still runs like crap. I need to pay someone to actually tune mine. It starts and sounds healthy, but it won't take throttle and dies when I pull up to a stop sign. I've hardly driven it honestly and it's still not road legal.
I can confirm that the stuff clutch, I'm running a LQ4 with an AR5 and it's pretty much an on/off switch with about a 1/2" of travel. I bumped the idle up to 900-1,000 rpm and it helped some.
Scotty, do you have a WB O2 in that? It also might be pulling a bunch of timing. Mine didn't want to idle while moving in neutral. I'll have to look at my tuning logs to see what I had to disable, though might not be your issue since your running Holley.
In reply to OneSickGNX :
Im waiting on a log or an overlap in schedules to remote into Scotty's laptop. From what I've seen in the tune file and videos sent via fb messenger the base field map needs a little tuning but the tps rate of change maps are adding way too much fuel and causing a big stumble
Any updates Scotty? still considering an auto swap? IF so, my vote is definitely stock ECU with 4L80e for OD driveability
Thanks for the bump. No big updates. I live a very busy life these days with 3 active kids in sports and a busy job. I think I've been more focused on being outside and doing summer hobbies like fishing and going for runs since the weather is nice. When the doom and gloom of late fall and winter set it, I'll be back to it a little more.
Ryan got the tune majorly updated and the truck is running a lot better when I drive it around the neighborhood and idleing in my driveway. The biggest problem is the truck isn't actually on the road because I need to get it registered as a classic vehicle in PA. Hoping to stop by the tag office on my lunch break to do that tomorrow. Then, I need to drive it some more and send logs to Ryan to get the tune dialed in even more.
I'm not really considering an auto swap anytime soon since I've hardly driven this thing. But this winter I do want to rip out all of the wiring and exhaust to fix/cleanup the half-assery I did to get the truck running. I'm about to buy an actual gas mig welder so I can do better fab work.
In reply to Scotty Con Queso :
Glad you got some driveability improvements! FWIW i don't regret the money it took to get a legit MIG setup, even though it was much more expensive than I wanted it to be
Sounds like you need a clutch master with a smaller bore. This will make the same pressure at a lower input force, so the pedal won't be so stiff. It will also spread the clutch actuation over a longer range of pedal travel, making it easier to modulate.
Very nice! Still thinking of selling?
AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) said:Sounds like you need a clutch master with a smaller bore. This will make the same pressure at a lower input force, so the pedal won't be so stiff. It will also spread the clutch actuation over a longer range of pedal travel, making it easier to modulate.
Adding on this. GM of this era really liked sticking overly strong return springs in the clutch pedal. I just fixed this on the C6 Corvette pedal in my truck.
In reply to java230 :
Nah I want to keep it to further refine.
RacetruckRon said:AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) said:Sounds like you need a clutch master with a smaller bore. This will make the same pressure at a lower input force, so the pedal won't be so stiff. It will also spread the clutch actuation over a longer range of pedal travel, making it easier to modulate.
Adding on this. GM of this era really liked sticking overly strong return springs in the clutch pedal. I just fixed this on the C6 Corvette pedal in my truck.
I've got to look into the spring before I spend a bunch converting to a wilwood master.
In other news I sent off for Classic Plates so I can drive this thing. Not sure how long those will take to get here.
Well. My stupidity has gotten me once again. After Ryan got the tune smoothed out the truck just had no power and was breaking up under load. I'm not sure why I didn't think of this sooner, but back when I cleaned the engine, I power washed it. Then, about 8 months later when I went to install a cam the engine was rust locked because I got water in the engine months before, apparently. I freed it up and lubed the cylinders and moved on. I should have checked compression while it was still on the stand but I didn't.
Well, today I checked compression and got the following on the left bank:
1:120
3: 60
5: 100
7: 100
oof. Time to go get another crusty 4.8 or 5.3 and not power wash it.
Crusty replacement 5.3 acquired. 160k mile unit from a Silverado with a rusted frame. Was $350 picked up.
Edit: I still can't get pics to upload from my phone, but here's one from my desktop. Because I give the people what they want to see, a crusty 5.3:
I want to see boost...
Is that an aluminum block? The block doesn't look as crusty as you led on.
In reply to RacetruckRon :
Steel block. I was surprised to see how little rust and scale the fasteners and block had on this one. Especially for having come from a truck with a rusted out frame. It is absolutley caked in filth through. Likely helped it stay less rusty.
budget_bandit said:I want to see boost...
Sure. We all do.
As someone who just went through an engine swap, I must say I have jealousy about the ease in which you're able to yank that mill out.
I too have a chain hoist, as well as exposed trusses over the garage bay. My logical brain overrode my car-guy brain and said "it makes no sense to collapse your garage to make car work easy"...wish I would've listened to the car-guy part...
Glad to see you're sticking with the build.
Had my 18 minutes of free time on Monday night so I popped off the valve covers. This one has 706 heads - like the first one I bought, so I was a little nervous. Some 706 castings are crack prone and sludge the engine. This one looks mint inside. Clear the PO took care of this truck.
Plan for now starting Sunday is to disassemble the white truck. Engine, trans, wiring all coming out for a reset. Then I'll swap the cam and springs to the new engine. No. I'm not going to pressure wash the new engine.
Scotty Con Queso said:No. I'm not going to pressure wash the new engine.
In crust we trust!
On a serious note though how does the passenger side valve cover look? The non-pcv side can sometimes tell a different story but that looks like a clean head for a 706.
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