Twincharged capri

Well there's 2 different ways to go when using both a charger and a turbo.. 

You can have the charger blow through the turbo and that'll get rid of lag and help spool the turbo. If course once the turbo spools the charger will be a restriction so it needs a bypass mechanism to let the turbo breathe.

A supercharged engine at lower revs and turboed up top. Problem is getting the transition from one to the other smoothly. I toyed with this set up to begin with using a simple duck bill valve that would simply fall open once the turbo was suckng  more air than the charger was supplyng. This is a parallel setup

I decided to go with a compound (sequential?) setup where the turbo blows into the charger all the time and the charger componds the air supplied by turbo. It never becomes a restriction as it just compounds whatever is supplied to its inlet. Creating a lot of boost and heat. I'e got 2 intercoolers which should help. But as mentioned before changing up the characteristics of a turbo only motor is the main advantage of trying this arrangement. 

turbo only motor thats boosting say 20psi could have at a guess 40psi behind the exhaust turbine. Thats normal for turbo motors give or take some variables. If my turbo is pushing a lower boost of say 12 psi and my charger alone supplied 8 psi on it's own that would be approx 30psi compounded boost. So if my turbo has a back pressure of less than 30 psi then I'll have achieved my goal. Changing pulley size and turbine housing is the key here. I have a back pressure gauge and 2 boost gauges to monitor and tune.

The charger will trick the turbo into thinking it's bolted to a larger cc engine. My guess is a 3.3-3.5l

Should have the positive attributes of both power adders and none of the negatives... Well apart from the draw it takes to drive the charger and keeping boost levels manageable.

2_3 said:

AWSX1686 said:

Following!

Always interested in relevant 2.3 projects as that's what I'm building. 

Same here

 

What are the expected boost and hp numbers? Got any pics of the ported head?

Those figs I'm not sure on just yet. 

It'l be seat of the pants for the first while! 

Some diy porting pics.. 

This is awesome work!! 

Were about's in Alberta are you? I'm 'next door' in Saskatchewan and this would be awesome to see in person! I am always down for a summer roadtrip

DjGreggieP said:

This is awesome work!! 

Were about's in Alberta are you? I'm 'next door' in Saskatchewan and this would be awesome to see in person! I am always down for a summer roadtrip

Im in Edmonton. Just over the road sure! 

Fantastic looking project.  And while I know next to nothing about porting heads (other than the set I ported for my Camaro years ago) one thing was stuck in my mind.  "Smooth the short side radius."  That's all I have.  But again, great project.  And nice choice of car to save.

Engine before it went in the hole

This is the bias brake box, I actually mounted the unit upside down and eliminated the firewall bracket as it  protruded too far into the engine bay.

Also the electric steering motor from pick n pull at a staggering 29 bucks for both the motor and control box. 

Here I threw away the rubber bobbin engine mounts but kept the outer metal cup. I fabricated 2  2x1 interlocking links out of some scrap and supported them within the cup then filled with 90 shore rubber. These have no metal to metal contact giving vibration isolation but should never pull apart either. 

This is my crank pulley, it's a later serpentine belt pulley gutted and welded to the double V and a 36-1 welded  to the rear. 

I also made a bracket to mount the trigger sensor that also doubles as a timing marker. 

Wife thinks I'm crazy. 

I remember rendering some opinions and offering info on compound-charging back before this had a build thread.  Obviously i still think it is cool. 

Vigo said:

I remember rendering some opinions and offering info on compound-charging back before this had a build thread.  Obviously i still think it is cool. 

Indeed, it was great to chat about the ins/outs of these setups. Someone on the same page is always helpful. 

Craigorypeck said:

Also the electric steering motor from pick n pull at a staggering 29 bucks for both the motor and control box. 

 

I also made a bracket to mount the trigger sensor that also doubles as a timing marker. 

Wife thinks I'm crazy. 

I'd be interested in more details on the electronic power steering!

Also, the timing/trigger bracket looks great! Neat way to be able to do away with the timing cover.

And she would be correct, but from what I'm seeing it's the best kind of crazy!

I'd be interested in more details on the electronic power steering!

Also, the timing/trigger bracket looks great! Neat way to be able to do away with the timing cover.

And she would be correct, but from what I'm seeing it's the best kind of crazy!

The steering motor is from a Nissan versa. 

It has its own control box and if the control box doesn't get a signal from the host vehicles ECU within 10 seconds of goes into failsafe mode. Kinda like a set amount of assistance which feels good in the stationary car.  I'm also running a dry power rack so I'm guessing it'll be just right., I hope... There's info online as to which motors goes into failsafe mode.. these don't require a 3rd party controller like some conversions do. 

I adapted the steering column and made a bracket to hold it.  Also bolted through the firewall.

Hey Craig

I don't know know how many Crapis (mispelling intentional) you've driven but they all have a pretty decent manual steering rack, not hard to handle at speed or low speeds at all. Mounting Bushings made of marshmallows and rattly rag joints are another story. Thinking a Fox body aftermarket unit might adapt real easy to what you have for mounts. Apologies if this is back seat driving....

Agent98 said:

Hey Craig

I don't know know how many Crapis (mispelling intentional) you've driven but they all have a pretty decent manual steering rack, not hard to handle at speed or low speeds at all. Mounting Bushings made of marshmallows and rattly rag joints are another story. Thinking a Fox body aftermarket unit might adapt real easy to what you have for mounts. Apologies if this is back seat driving....

I have a mk3 crapi back in Ireland with manual rack. With wide front tires it was a bitch to park. And any imbalance in the wheels transferred right through to the steering wheel. I changed every serviceable item in the front end of that car and the wheel wobble never went away. So I'm trying to avoid it from the start with this build. Hopefully the power rack and electric motor will dampen and absorb a minor shake if there is one. 

Plus I'm so used to driving modern vehicles that I want this to be comfortable to drive too. I have pretty soft springs up front but I'm gonna double up the sway bar to keep it level with little body roll- like a modem car. 

Those are good answers. Carry on!

Craigorypeck said:

I'd be interested in more details on the electronic power steering!

Also, the timing/trigger bracket looks great! Neat way to be able to do away with the timing cover.

And she would be correct, but from what I'm seeing it's the best kind of crazy!

The steering motor is from a Nissan versa. 

It has its own control box and if the control box doesn't get a signal from the host vehicles ECU within 10 seconds of goes into failsafe mode. Kinda like a set amount of assistance which feels good in the stationary car.  I'm also running a dry power rack so I'm guessing it'll be just right., I hope... There's info online as to which motors goes into failsafe mode.. these don't require a 3rd party controller like some conversions do. 

I adapted the steering column and made a bracket to hold it.  Also bolted through the firewall.

Very interesting...

Please keep me posted on how it works once you've used it. 

I've got a Ford 2.3t in a 1970 Triumph Spitfire, which has manual steering. I'm sure with the factory engine that was fine, the 2.3 is heavy though. For autocross it really isn't too bad how it is, but I think if I ever want to do a little drifting with it, power steering would almost be necessary. And I like a little drifting in my life... ;)

I really wonder if you'll ever get those brakes bled with that highpoint you made in the lines... 

AWSX1686 said:

Craigorypeck said:

I'd be interested in more details on the electronic power steering!

Also, the timing/trigger bracket looks great! Neat way to be able to do away with the timing cover.

And she would be correct, but from what I'm seeing it's the best kind of crazy!

The steering motor is from a Nissan versa. 

It has its own control box and if the control box doesn't get a signal from the host vehicles ECU within 10 seconds of goes into failsafe mode. Kinda like a set amount of assistance which feels good in the stationary car.  I'm also running a dry power rack so I'm guessing it'll be just right., I hope... There's info online as to which motors goes into failsafe mode.. these don't require a 3rd party controller like some conversions do. 

I adapted the steering column and made a bracket to hold it.  Also bolted through the firewall.

Very interesting...

Please keep me posted on how it works once you've used it. 

I've got a Ford 2.3t in a 1970 Triumph Spitfire, which has manual steering. I'm sure with the factory engine that was fine, the 2.3 is heavy though. For autocross it really isn't too bad how it is, but I think if I ever want to do a little drifting with it, power steering would almost be necessary. And I like a little drifting in my life... ;)

 

I was surprised how well it worked while stationary and that was with it connected to a E36 M3ty worn out half dead battery. 

Google failsafe electric power steering. You'l find all you need to know.

Mad_Ratel said:

I really wonder if you'll ever get those brakes bled with that highpoint you made in the lines... 

I piped the bleeders right back to the reservoir and pumped her solid for 10mins. Front and rear are separate circuits so that may make it easier.  The dash mount brake pressure gauges move as soon as I touch the pedal. could still be air in there though. Ill bleed them again at some point. 

I run a MGF EPAS system in my Capri, this summer was the second year. I have a quick rack so steering effort was really high before. The EPAS makes the car a lot easier to handle, it is one of the better modifications I have made to the car.

For now I have a stand-alone controller with a potentiometer to vary the assistance, I have been planning to make it speed sensitive but have not gotten there yet. Usually I have it on full assist when starting, and during parking etc, around 50% in city driving and then I turn it down to 0% for higher speeds. For drifting I tend to use max assistance too.

With the quick rack the steering feel is good even at full assist.

Gustaf

Ms3pro in there with a relay and fuse board.

I ditched the small air to air intercooler that was crammed in the fender area and went with a W2A instead. 

Too much pipes!!

Stock wiing hooked up and everything works. Surprisingly. Even after I butchered the crap out of the loom.

Ms to wire now. 

My goodness. Very cool. I never thought about the supercharger tricking the turbo into thinking it's on a bigger engine, but it makes perfect sense. 

Curious to see what intake temps look like blowing all that air through the supercharger, my limited knowledge says that should produce a lot of hot air. Here in Minnesota a lot of the high horsepower forced induction guys are running E85 - not sure that's an option for you but it's a great charge cooler and is pretty forgiving.

Anxious to see more, keep up the great work! 

Craigorypeck said:

Mad_Ratel said:

I really wonder if you'll ever get those brakes bled with that highpoint you made in the lines... 

I piped the bleeders right back to the reservoir and pumped her solid for 10mins. Front and rear are separate circuits so that may make it easier.  The dash mount brake pressure gauges move as soon as I touch the pedal. could still be air in there though. Ill bleed them again at some point. 

while not theoretically perfect, those high lines are very short relative to the volume of fluid moved by the full MC piston stroke, *and* they are lower than the "full" mark on the reservoirs.   it will not retain air in those lines.

In reply to Craigorypeck :

Could be the first and last car I ever build.!

I was impressed until I read this. Then I was floored: This was a first effort and you did it to this quality in a year or so.  Unless you go on to build like space-ships, it would be a shame if this is the apogee of your car hobby.

Pete

I feel like the laziest POS in the world after reading through this build thread.  Also possibly dumbest but whatever.

Very cool project, very impressed with your work so far, so thanks for sharing with us.

NOHOME said:

In reply to Craigorypeck :

Could be the first and last car I ever build.!

I was impressed until I read this. Then I was floored: This was a first effort and you did it to this quality in a year or so.  Unless you go on to build like space-ships, it would be a shame if this is the apogee of your car hobby.

 

Pete

Ha, well I kinda end up doing stuff then after I do it to a standard I'm happy with I end up drawing a line in the sand and do something else.

I used to play drums, got a record deal, made some albums, toured.. Then one day I just quit, haven't hit a drum since.

However this project is gonna take a while. Just read the ms3 pro manual and its gonna get more complex than I ever imagined. Looking forward to learning it all. 

The good ole days...

https://youtu.be/EG7kU5J9oUQ

Gunchsta said:

My goodness. Very cool. I never thought about the supercharger tricking the turbo into thinking it's on a bigger engine, but it makes perfect sense. 

Curious to see what intake temps look like blowing all that air through the supercharger, my limited knowledge says that should produce a lot of hot air. Here in Minnesota a lot of the high horsepower forced induction guys are running E85 - not sure that's an option for you but it's a great charge cooler and is pretty forgiving.

 

Anxious to see more, keep up the great work! 

Well I have both intercoolers in the hope I can keep inlet temps down. 

I'm not gonna be running massive pressures and if I get the gearing right ill be blowing a complete fresh charge into the cylinder. So whats worse, Elevated intake temps or the normal really hot residual gases hanging around from turbo back pressure.. Ill have more inlet pressure than back pressure so those residual gasses will get completely blown out...