Mid engined awd geo ice racer

I only build the cars,other more god like men spend countless hours freezing body parts solid to build the track we race on.

Mike mentioned earlier that the Adirondack club is the premier ice race series,I respectfully doubt that.

Update time I guess,jackshaft is installed,throttle cable done,shifter done,rad hoses done,battery box done,steering column lowered to match new race seat,seat back braces fabbed,rear cage braces redone to allow the new strut towers room. Lots more to do and not alot of time to do it.

So... Whenever you decide you're tired of this thing... I wanna have first dibs to buy it. Cool?

Did you say "toilet plunger seals?" My ears are ringing with awesome.

kevlarcorolla wrote: I only build the cars,other more god like men spend countless hours freezing body parts solid to build the track we race on. Mike mentioned earlier that the Adirondack club is the premier ice race series,I respectfully doubt that.

The Adirondack Motor Enthusiast Cub makes that claim due to the fact that they have been sanctioning ice races for 45 yrs. Have 6 seperate classes and run on different lakes with different courses each weekend. We are also sponsored for two weekend events by two Adirondack villages and we may have a third for a one day event. Our sreet legal class has sponsorship from Bridgestone. So that is why we make that claim. I would like to see your car at one of our events, rcv chief steward

Sure you can have 1st dibs,lets wait and see how well it works 1st ok?.If all seems well this year it might keep the turbo that the engine is getting in the spring for the open wheel car,might swap it back to na though for the winter if the power seems enough(more power might mean more spinning so...)If I got the gearing right than it should be good with the NA power level.(107kph at 11,500 in 2nd and 127kph at the same rpm in 3rd,should be fine for our 2nd and 3rd gear track) Yep toilet plunger seals,the earlier pics show them-they were the bellows type that worked perfectly once cut in the right places.

iceracer wrote:

kevlarcorolla wrote: I only build the cars,other more god like men spend countless hours freezing body parts solid to build the track we race on. Mike mentioned earlier that the Adirondack club is the premier ice race series,I respectfully doubt that.

The Adirondack Motor Enthusiast Cub makes that claim due to the fact that they have been sanctioning ice races for 45 yrs. Have 6 seperate classes and run on different lakes with different courses each weekend. We are also sponsored for two weekend events by two Adirondack villages and we may have a third for a one day event. Our sreet legal class has sponsorship from Bridgestone. So that is why we make that claim. I would like to see your car at one of our events, rcv chief steward

We've been building the same basic track on the same site for 37 years,we have 30 races per class for the season held over 12 days(six 2 day weekends)and with the 2nd driver classes included we have 17 classes.Prior to building the land based track the series was held like everyone else and on lakes and travelling around,not sure how many years but it was plenty. Our series provides heated registration,timing,scoring areas,heated washrooms and heated lunch building and all cars can be left on site for the season.Our street stud class is sponsored by hankook,the rest of the series sponsors are on the website.

And thats why I think we have the premier series.:)

Doesn't matter to me in fact,I love what we have here AND what you guys are doing down there.

kevlarcorolla wrote: Sure you can have 1st dibs,lets wait and see how well it works 1st ok?.If all seems well this year it might keep the turbo that the engine is getting in the spring for the open wheel car,might swap it back to na though for the winter if the power seems enough(more power might mean more spinning so...)If I got the gearing right than it should be good with the NA power level.(107kph at 11,500 in 2nd and 127kph at the same rpm in 3rd,should be fine for our 2nd and 3rd gear track) Yep toilet plunger seals,the earlier pics show them-they were the bellows type that worked perfectly once cut in the right places.

I'd want it with the turbo. It'd be a track demon since we don't get ice here. I'd love to pull up to the local road course with that thing! Most likely just swap tires and do a little suspension tuning and it'd be right at home, right?

Conquest351 wrote:

kevlarcorolla wrote: Sure you can have 1st dibs,lets wait and see how well it works 1st ok?.If all seems well this year it might keep the turbo that the engine is getting in the spring for the open wheel car,might swap it back to na though for the winter if the power seems enough(more power might mean more spinning so...)If I got the gearing right than it should be good with the NA power level.(107kph at 11,500 in 2nd and 127kph at the same rpm in 3rd,should be fine for our 2nd and 3rd gear track) Yep toilet plunger seals,the earlier pics show them-they were the bellows type that worked perfectly once cut in the right places.

I'd want it with the turbo. It'd be a track demon since we don't get ice here. I'd love to pull up to the local road course with that thing! Most likely just swap tires and do a little suspension tuning and it'd be right at home, right?

If you want it with those parts its going to get pricey quick since I need them for the other car.

Yes I think the basic layout would work well for road course work,the lack of a center diff would likely cause the most problems.It shouldn't be an issue on the ice,lots of slip at the wheels instead of needing in the driveline.

Cool, well we'll talk more if and when you're ready to sell. Till then, keep the build thread going!!!

What are you doing for Reverse? I know that can be a challenge for Motorcycle engined cars...

As long as two Premier series are in different parts of the country, all is good. We have looked into land base but haven;t been able to find a place. We have a couple of mini-mods with the Hyabusa(sp) engine. One even won the championship one year.

Reverse??,damn I knew I forgot something!

The car will be light enough so thats no problem,just plan ahead in the paddock area(we have loads of room)and don't stick it in the snowbank on track and it shouldn't pose much of a problem.

Iceracer,yes land based is tough to find a suitable location-you need very flat or the highspots quickly get uncovered and the stud guys get very upset with the destroyed tires.You also need the ability to move ALOT of water,around 700,000 litres a week is what they average here depending on conditions.

What are you doing for a chain guard?

Real mens don't need no steenking chain guards.

Wow, tha IS a lot of water. We use the water that is there and just move the snow. Some times there is a lot of that. Then we have to make sure there is at least 12" of ice. So it appears that either way entails a lot of of work

The square tubing is too be cover in metal,between the crossers and cover I'm not concerned about a chain getting at me. I just had it pointed out to me that both ends of the jackshaft should be supported as the u-joint might not like the loads for very long.Any body have some insight?

Pass through bearing like an axle bearing pressed onto the shaft with a clamshell bolt on retainer.

Yes thats essentially whats on the end of the shaft,I guess the real question I'm asking is if its really required or will it last as is?.

Personally I would put a bearing on both ends of the shaft. I think the small amount of play allowed by both the output shaft bearings and your bearing, combined with a universal joint will cause wobble and destruction.

MrJoshua wrote: Personally I would put a bearing on both ends of the shaft. I think the small amount of play allowed by both the output shaft bearings and your bearing, combined with a universal joint will cause wobble and destruction.

Agreed. That's got potential to get out of hand.

Regarding the chain guard, FSAE requires a steel guard 3 times as wide as the chain, and at least 0.105" thick. And those are only 600cc engines. Food for thought.

I'd put two bearings on the jackshaft too, one on either side of the sprocket. There's another reason along with the whole wobble thing: when you get on the gas, it's going to try to pull the sprockets closer together and if both ends aren't supported the chain will get real loose. That can cause all KINDS of damage.

Now that I think a bit more, you might want to reconsider the U joint, too. It allows no flex, meaning that if the engine torques on its mounts or the jackshaft and output shaft aren't in perfect alignment, something ugly might happen. There's chain and 'spider' couplings designed to allow some movement and misalignment. Roller chain coupling:

Flexible spider coupling:

Thanks guys,I used the square tubing frame to align the diff housings and to keep them in place-they cannot be pulled together.I won't have time to redo the jackshaft from scratch,I'll add another bearing support and see what happens.